I'm so frustrated with Kona

[Dananyc]

Background: Kona is a 16 yo rescue who was apparently always a "picky eater." She used to eat live, switched to f/t and her past owner said she does better with f/t.

I've had her for about 4-5 months and she's eaten once. ONCE. And the one time that she ate, the rat had popped (sorry, I know it's gross) on the heating pad prior to offering it to her. So I've been thinking maybe she likes the smell of the blood and I've been cutting the heads of the f/t rats a bit, but it doesn't help.

She actually will "run" away from the rat when I offer it. I don't understand

Also, she spends all of the daylight hours seemingly trying to escape from her tank (40 gallon)---she's always slithering around and up the walls.

Her hides, temp, and humidity are good (measured by accu-rite). Any ideas?

[elevatethis]

Her hides, temp, and humidity are good (measured by accu-rite). Any ideas?

That's probably the #1 subjective type of statement made here. "Good" is all a matter of varying opinions.

What are the ACTUAL temps on both sides of the cage? Humidity?

A healthy ball will eat rats without having to mutilate them to trick them into eating. You might want to take it to a vet to get it looked over. Internal parasites could be at work here as well.

[JLC]

Sounds like she's not feeling secure in her new home...and an insecure BP won't eat. If you're SURE the temps are correct, then I would definitely look to security as the next issue.


Is she in a high traffic area? Or just a "busy" area like a living room where the TV may cause frequent light flickering? Or near a stereo speaker or other vibration source? Check around for those sorts of external stimuli.

Are you using a bright white light to heat or light the cage? That's another thing that can make them unhappy.

Finally...once you're sure all other outside influences are nullified...try covering at least three sides of that glass tank with dark paper. That'll help keep her from feeling so exposed. And then take a whole bunch of loosely crumpled newspaper and fill the tank with it...leave just enough space to allow you access to her water dish and that's it. The crumpled newspaper will give a more "denlike" feel to her enclosure and allow her to start to relax. But it can take time. Don't try to feed her again too soon....and don't take any paper out until she's started eating regularly....and even then...just take a little bit out at a time once a week or so...until eventually she won't have any paper anymore. The process can take several weeks or even months, depending on how nervous she is.

[joepythons]

That's probably the #1 subjective type of statement made here. "Good" is all a matter of varying opinions.

What are the ACTUAL temps on both sides of the cage? Humidity?

A healthy ball will eat rats without having to mutilate them to trick them into eating. You might want to take it to a vet to get it looked over. Internal parasites could be at work here as well.

I agree with Brad.Let us know what the Vet says.

[Dananyc]

She was vet checked right when I got her and probed (that's how I know she's a she )
The lowest I've ever seen the humidity was 52%, but it's normally in the mid 60s.

Cool side temp averaged between 78-82. Warm side usually 87-89. I don't have a probe inside her warm hide (it's a cave type thing), but can tell with my hand that it's always a few degrees warmer in there.

[Dananyc]

Oops---I said she was vet checked but forgot to say that she was given clean bill of health. Her old owner said "Sometimes she just doesn't eat" when I brought it up to him . . .

[Regal Boids]

You should really get another thermometer to measure the hot side temps. they should be 92-94 and the cool end should be right around 82-84.


-Andre

[elevatethis]

Cool side temp averaged between 78-82. Warm side usually 87-89. I don't have a probe inside her warm hide (it's a cave type thing), but can tell with my hand that it's always a few degrees warmer in there.

That's the type of stuff you've got to get over with ball pythons. You can't do any type of guessing! Knowing exactly what you are doing is crucial to success with these guys.

I would say you need to increase your temps across the board- 82-94 on the cool side and 92-94 on the warm side.

Get that right, follow Judy's advice on making sure the tank feels secure for the snake (multiple hides, low traffic around the cage, NO BRIGHT LIGHTS) and she should come around.

Minimal handling (none unless you are doing cage maintenance) until she eats. Many people have "handled" these guys to death...they are not a snake that particularly likes to be out of their cages for extended periods of time.

[Dananyc]

Ok, will do. There are no bright lights near her at all, or tv/music, etc. She's constantly out roaming around her cage, and when I take the lid off for maintenance she slithers right onto me---she actually seeks out handling. She doesn't seem nervous, as she spends minimal time in her hides.


Increasing the temp is easy, will do that right now. Should I just push her into the tank when I'm changing water/cleaning and she seems to "want" to come out?

My curiousity is why she seems afraid of the food---she'll come and sniff it and then quickly dart away . . .

[Regal Boids]

I wonder if she has ever been bitten before by a rat and therefore scared of getting bit again?