I just posted this on another forum that I visit - so many new owners with complaints that their babies that aren't feeding for them and they can't understand why. They've asked for examples of how my babies are set up. I stress to them that healthy ball pythons should feed consistently if set up properly.
Often set up in 20 gallon long glass vivs with hides that are too big. Here's what I posted on the other forum. I posted it in husbandry rather than caging - since it's about proper housing to get babies eating.
I’m posting this for the benefit of the members here who have baby ball pythons that aren’t feeding for them. This is what I use for my babies (I have four ’06 babies ranging in weight from 90 grams to 120 grams) and none have refused a meal in this tub set up. They are fed in their enclosure, offered one live hopper or small mouse a week. I remove the green hide (which is going to be replaced with another plastic flower pot saucer) when I feed.
When we get our new baby, we are excited, and we set up these elaborate glass set-ups - often way too large for a baby who’s instinct is survival - with too large enclosure - they feel exposed to predators - and YOU are a predator - as much as you love your baby.
This is a 15 quart tub from Dollar General with holes soldered into the enclosure, an AcuRite thermometer, two hides, a water bowl and temporarily - a human heat pad with no auto-off feature set on low (this is temporary and should be watched carefully - a reptile made UTH with a thermostat is preferable).
If your baby is not eating, try setting up an enlosure similar to this and don’t handle them for a week. Then drop in a live hopper or small mouse - they should be eating for you in no time as long as your temps are spot on.
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