??F/T process form live??

[Ronniex2]

Hey all!!
Hope we are having a great day sofar… just wanted some pointers and had some questions on this F/T switch I recentlydid…
After switching from glass tanks to a rack system (all husbandryis much more precise & accounted for 78-80 cool, 90hot UTH, humidity 50-60%), due to newadditions to come as my lil bro is joining the Army (HOOAH!!) so I have to takeback my Male spider from him soon. With all the feeds/threads/forums, I’ve readsaying how much easier and safer F/T is v/s live, why not switch.
So I did, and it has gone well so far. My Female BEL (myonly snake rn) has eaten her 1^st F/T rat last night!! So I am happy.
When I moved Spell, I didn’t mess with her for like aweek before the move & like 8-9 days after the move; I tried to feed her,almost like she was a new snake again. She was ready as I ever saw her, neverbit or struck @ me, but I read a thread about front opening racks v/s side andtop, I have front, I was hoping for a better feeding response for this reason andwon’t you guess it… it took about 2mins of dangling but she took it! I was sohappy!... Again here is some asked for advice..
1) How long should I leave the rat out/ defrost in: roomtemp- 70-75, heat strip- as I saw in 1 video, 80-90ish?, hot water- how hot? 90-100-110?,blow dryer- or is that just to heat the head up?. I have spiders so theirstrike game is weak af (Especially Spell’s UGH!)
2a) How do you know the internal temp/ I’ll be honest I stabbedthe rat a lil to check internal temp(80-85), last thing I need is some bs from a patricianlydefrosted rat.
2b) What could be some issues withthat!?
3) As I was feeding her the tail fell off (LMFAO) ..almoston her as she was checking it out... I’m like no way she is going to let mepick it back up (w/tongs) and dangle it again and strike at it... She did andanother piece of tail fell off >>smfh... I got the rat at pet smart – I willget the brand, but is there any quality issues I should worry about with who I purchase the F/Toff? Anyone have any preferences where the tail is strong enough (LOL) idk I meanI’m new to this F/T stuff again why I only fed live
My question for my male is (when I get him) he has onlyeaten live, he’s an aggressive feeder for sure, about 1yr<+ old now andaround 1000gs so I am just worried with bringing him home – sometime in June-with the smell of a female – WHO IS NOT HIS MATE, and with the new enclosure,and new food source (Not live) if he may go off feeding for a longer periodthan most owners are comfortable with.
I know he wouldneed a few weeks to get his stress LvLs back down and get acclimated to his newdiggs (like I did with Spell) before I tried him with the F/T. My issues ofconcern would be after switching enclosures, and having a female’s sent aroundhim, and a new food source or presentation, would that be too much of a drasticchange for him over a few months if you will? Would not being paired for a while and having a female aroundput him off? or her off??
This is obviously my own doing and thinking, but alsojust for informational purpose, and learning that’s why we are all here some toask and some to answer, I just want to have a game plan in place for what needsto be done and how to tailor it to what my needs are.

Thanks again BP buddies! Happy Thursday

[Godzilla78]

Petsmart frozen rat prices are ridiculous. They sell medium frozen rats for $10 here. I can buy a medium frozen rat from a local breeder for $1.50 and it is higher quality and fresher.

[Ronniex2]

Petsmart frozen rat prices are ridiculous. They sell medium frozen rats for $10 here. I can buy a medium frozen rat from a local breeder for $1.50 and it is higher quality and fresher.

That was going to be my follow up question, im better off sticking with live with buying 2 weeks worth of F/T Med @ 10.99 ..like 2 rats are like $6 live ez.. but i wil just have to do some research now i guess .. im not buying another F/T from there as i knew that was out ragous when i got rung up for 2 small rats and 2 Lg mice was almost 5=$30 - ($25).. so yeah i need some better options ugh

[Cheesenugget]

I defrost my rat/mice in the fridge overnight. Take it out and warm it up using hot water from the faucet. Soak for 15 min. Then throw out the old water and repeat for another 15 min. I do not use plastic bags. I tried that and I find that the feeders don't thaw as fast or get as warm.

Take the feeder out, pat dry with a papertowels and use a hair dryer on both sides of the rat/mouse for at least 30 sec. The bigger the feeder, the longer I stay on the face and sides of the belly.

Your feeder should feel warm, especially the belly area. It should also be "squishy" and not hard. If it feels warmer than your hand, it definitely is at or above 90's F.

Then immediately offer the prey to the snake. Using the hemostat, grab the hip area or the skin above its hindquarters of the feeder. I don't grab the tail because they almost always break off. Same with the legs. One time I accidentally grab the belly of a pinkie and 'gut juice' popped out. Gross.

I have never stick a thermometer probe inside a feeder. I have used it on the feeder to check temps. But now I don't do that anymore as long as I follow the above steps.

If you thaw and blow dry the feeders near or in the same room, your snake should be ready to eat when it is time to offer the prey. You should get a strike within seconds. If it did not, wait 15 min, reheat with a hair dryer, and try again. If it still refuse, then stop for the day and try again next week.

I buy my feeders from Underground Reptiles. Their store is only about 15-20 min from home and they are cheaper than the other pet stores near me, including the online vendors. But I only have 3 snakes to feed. If you have a large collection and a good size freezer just for feeders, I hear good things from Perfect Prey. However, I do agree Petsnart overprice their feeders so I would never buy from them.

[Neal]

I'll have to look for the place, but they have somewhere in NY that sells frozen feeders, and you can order from them. That or join one of the reptile groups and post you need feeders.