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  1. #1
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    Baby Ball Feeding

    I’ve had my baby ball for 2 weeks now (he was 8 weeks when I got him). I was assured by the breeder he was on F/T so I picked some up. I offered him food last week, but as he came to check it out I saw he was in blue and I kinda figured he wouldn’t take it, which he didn’t. I attempted to feed him today, and he refused once again. I’m feeding off tongs, so I tried leaving it in there with him in a dark room and staying away for a bit. Welp he still didn’t take it. He’s just a little guy and I know bp’s can go off food for months, but I didn’t know when I should be concerned. I’m going to give him a few days and try live just to see if it makes a difference.

    Just FYI, yes I heat the F/T before offering and continue to heat as it cools down. My hot side is 90, cool side is 80, ambient is 78. Humidity is 65% (he just shed out yesterday in one piece). He seemed interested, but booped it and just kept on going around it. I tried for about 15-20 min before I just left it in there because I didn’t want to stress him.

    Any tips appreciated.

  2. #2
    Telling it like it is! Stewart_Reptiles's Avatar
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    How big is your BP and what is his setup like (enclosure size, temps, type of thermometer used, type of hides (how they tight like a shell on a turtle's back), substrate used etc).

    How do you thaw and warm the prey up? Where do you feed? How do you offer (dangling or held from behind the neck moving it as it was alive)

    How many f/t has he had with the breeder?

    Generally speakin I would not consider an animal switched to f/t unless he has had at least 5 successful consecutive F/T.
    Deborah Stewart


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    Zincubus (03-23-2018)

  4. #3
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    Re: Baby Ball Feeding

    He’s approx 117 g (weighed before he pooped yesterday so maybe lower now). He’s currently in a 32 qt bin on paper towels. He has two identical hides on each side of the enclosure with a lot of clutter in the cage (because I know the cage is kinda big for him right now but wanted something he could grow into). The hides are pretty tight on him, when he coils up he touchs the top and both sides and has about 1-1 1/2 inches to the opening. I use a UTH on a thermostat, temp gun reading 90 under the hide. I thaw the mouse in an open ziploc bag by his enclosure in warm water, then use hot water to warm it up (I don’t own a hairdryer). Many people told me their snakes would be coming out to the scent but not this guy. I use a temp gun to check mouse temp before I offer (it’s usually 100-104). By the time it cools back down to ~80 I reheat. Not getting the mouse wet as I’ve heard some bp’s won’t take wet mice. I offer both ways, dangling by the tail in front of hide and then switch to “running” it around. He seems mildly interested in the method, just pokes his head out, then goes back in the hide. The breeder said he had 4 F/T feedings consecutive, but I have no way of validating.

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    Telling it like it is! Stewart_Reptiles's Avatar
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    Do this https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...-hatchling-101

    then buy a cheap hair dryer, thaw the feeder near the tub a room temp (nice an slow), warm it up with the air dryer, and offer holding the prey from behind the neck moving it as if it was alive.
    Deborah Stewart


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    Zincubus (03-23-2018)

  7. #5
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    Feeding at night? Get it warmer. Keep your heat signature out of the way. I'm new too and experienced similar behavior. After tweeking the variables these 3 seemed to help. We're at 100% for the last couple months.

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    Zincubus (03-23-2018)

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    Re: Baby Ball Feeding

    Quote Originally Posted by SMTHook View Post
    Feeding at night? Get it warmer. Keep your heat signature out of the way. I'm new too and experienced similar behavior. After tweeking the variables these 3 seemed to help. We're at 100% for the last couple months.
    Awesome, definitely will try it out. I wasn’t sure how hot was too hot as I didn’t want to burn him if he decided to eat it. I try my best to stay out of the way (I have like 18 inch tongs lol) . Glad to hear you’ve had success. I know some balls will starve themselves but he’s got no stresses so figure he will eat when he’s ready (hopefully).

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