Question about Flexwatt

[Melluns07]

Hello All,

So I have recently started working on my BP's new enclosure. I bought him the Animal Plastics T8. It is a 1/2" CDPVC (Controlled density PVC). It came with a piece of 11" flexwatt. This is my first time using flexwatt. I have it hooked up to a Vivarium VE-300 (WORTH EVERY PENNY). The enclosure has a cutout on the bottom of the cage for a probe to fit in between the flexwatt and the bottom of the cage. Currently I have the thermostat probe in that location, and another digital thermometer probe below the substrate laying on the inside surface of the enclosure to monitor the actual surface temp. TAKE NOTE: Currently I only have 1 VE-300 and the cheap a$$ jumpstart thermostat. It is not proportional so it cycles the power off and on, this gives me varying temps, about 5-7 degrees compared to the VE-300, again that variation occurs in the actual temp of the flexwatt, not the surface temp. For obvious reasons I do not want to move the VE-300 over just yet. What I am concerned about is that with the non-proportional thermostat, I have to set the flexwatt to a whopping 106 degrees to get a surface temp of 86-87 degrees. Now that surface temp is the actual temp of the surface BELOW the substrate, that is NOT the temp on the surface of the substrate. Since my BP has recently started burrowing I am not too worried about the temp of the substrate as I am only keeping about 1/4" of repti-bark inside.

My concerns are: Is this temp too high for the flexwatt to safely stay at? Will that temp release any possible toxins from the plastic? And finally should using my VE-300 proportional thermostat fix this as it will keep power flowing and keep the temps within 1 degree? I did let it run over night at that temp setting and the surface temp stayed at 86-88, it did not exceed 88 (obviously the snake is not living in it yet either) Coming from a glass bottom tank and a zoomed UTH, this seems drastic, I understand I have a thicker base now, but I am having to set this thing almost 20 degrees higher than my target temp, this will also cause problems when setting up my alarm thresholds on my thermostat.

[Reinz]

With my 4 AP cages, I have the Flexwatt anywhere from 105-112. They are larger cages than yours and stacked on the same side as the RHPs, thus the range differential.



If the second probe and t-stat help you sleep better that’s fine, but unnecessary. Most folks check those floor temps daily with an IR temp gun found on the net for under $20. I saw one at Tractor Supply yesterday for $13 and almost bought it. But I already have 4.



As far as toxin release, I don’t know. There are a lot of unknowns with plastic all around us and some known facts.

[Melluns07]

Thanks,

I have a temp gun on the way, I am also probably going to have to get a RHP as well. Looking at the Reptile basics 40 watt. That really sucks as my ambient temps are just a few degrees off at about 72-74. Do you have to use a thermostat for the RHP in your setup? I would think just a 40 watt or even the 28 watt would be fine to run max without getting too hot? Because I have noticed these AP cages really do hold in the heat and humidity. I obviously do not mind buying another thermostat if I have too, but they are a little pricey.

BTW love the setup. Sadly I also have my computer in the room and I have to keep it cool. I will not have a dedicated snake room until the daughter is off to college.

[Reinz]

You don’t want to ever have an unregulated heat source. If you haven’t plugged in your VE 300, maybe you can send it back for the VE 300x2 which has 2 ports. If not, get the x2 anyway and keep the original for a backup or second snake. Or sell it.

I have a half dozen RB RHPS. But I switched my newest APs to Pro Products RHPS for 2 reasons: one, it is the only UL listed RHP. Two, Bob will ask you questions and tell you exactly what wattage you need.

Best of luck