Yet another problem feeder thread

[ringorock]

Hi! I'm new here, and I joined because I am having a first. In my 15 years of keeping balls, I've never had a problem feeder until now. I bought a guy around 250 grams two weeks ago. He was obviously eating for his breeder, as he pooped a week after having him. I took him home on 4/11, and he hasn't eaten since then. I know this can be normal, but the breeder told me that the snake was an aggressive feeder. I setup his tank in the living room with a lot of cat and kid traffic. He has plenty of places to hide, but could this be stressing him out causing him to not want to feed?

He ate live mice before I bought him. I tried him on live, and f/t three times now a week after having him. Nothing. He'll come up to boop the mouse, but beyond that, he isn't interested. Should I move his enclosure? Should I try a small rat? Help! I'm pulling my hair out.

[Craiga 01453]

Welcome!!! Glad you joined!

You said he was eating live mice for the breeder, so this would be what I would stick to until he does eat. Once he's eating again regularly, maybe 5 consecutive meals, you could try switching to F/T if that's your preference.

I wouldn't sweat him not eating just yet. The move, the high traffic room, etc... may just take some acclimating. If it were me, I would wait a week and try feeding him whatever prey item he had been eating for the breeder.

If he doesn't eat the next few offerings just monitor his weight and go from there.

[Neal]

Pictures of the setup would be helpful just to get an idea, though new smells along with the traffic could easily be added stress.

[ringorock]

Welcome!!! Glad you joined!

You said he was eating live mice for the breeder, so this would be what I would stick to until he does eat. Once he's eating again regularly, maybe 5 consecutive meals, you could try switching to F/T if that's your preference.

I wouldn't sweat him not eating just yet. The move, the high traffic room, etc... may just take some acclimating. If it were me, I would wait a week and try feeding him whatever prey item he had been eating for the breeder.

If he doesn't eat the next few offerings just monitor his weight and go from there.

Okay. I was trying him about every two to three days. I'll lay off of him for a week and try again.

Pictures of the setup would be helpful just to get an idea, though new smells along with the traffic could easily be added stress.

I will take some today and post them up.

[ringorock]

Here is his setup. I stuck the lamp inside, because I built the hood not accounting for it. lol

[Stormy]

Here is his setup. I stuck the lamp inside, because I built the hood not accounting for it. lol

That is a dangerous set up! Your snake will end up getting a nasty burn or worse, it could be killed. Move that lamp outside the enclosure immediately.

What are your temps, hot side and cold side? Humidity? Are you using an under tank heat mat and if so is it regulated by a thermostat?

Your husbandry must be corrected first!

[ringorock]

I stopped using the light as soon as I saw him go for it. The tank has an under tank mat. The clay pot on the right is where the heat is. The clay pot on the left is the cool hide. This isn't usually how my enclosures are, but I was desperate with this one. Normally, I just have a water bowl and one warm hide- no light.

[Stormy]

I stopped using the light as soon as I saw him go for it. The tank has an under tank mat. The clay pot on the right is where the heat is. The clay pot on the left is the cool hide. This isn't usually how my enclosures are, but I was desperate with this one. Normally, I just have a water bowl and one warm hide- no light.

Is the heat mat controlled by a thermostat? If not unplug it immediately and get a thermostat; without one it's a burn hazard.

The bare minimum your snake should have is a thermostat controlled warm side with a hide, a cool side with a hide and a water bowl. You can use paper towel for bedding. Humidity should be between 50-60% and should be bumped up during shed. Humid hides can also be used to aid in shedding. Warm side should be between 88-92 and the cold side should be around 80-82 degrees; the snake will thermoregulate its body temp.

Until you fix your husbandry you will continue to having feeding issues.

[Craiga 01453]

PHEW!!! I'm glad you got the light out of there!!! HUGE NO-NO!!!

I second the question of the UTH on a thermostat as well. Extremely dangerous and possibly fatal for your snake.

Also, I see a few issues with your hides as well. Your little BP is probably stronger than you think and could (and eventually probably will) knock those pots off the base that they're resting on. This could either cause the snake to be trapped underneath or possibly the pot could fall on the snake squishing and possibly injuring or killing your snake. Those hides are also HUHGE for a BP that size. They prefer something tight, snug and secure.

Lastly, it's tough to tell in the pic, but that water bowl looks pretty big and possibly too full which could pose a drowning threat to your snake.

I just got back into keeping snakes recently after taking many years away. I got started about 20 years ago, and a lot has changed since then. It used to be as easy as keep them enclosed, keep them warm, keep them fed and watered and clean the poops and pee when they go. But the hobby has come a LONG way since then. We have a wealth of information at our fingertips thanks to this forum and the internet as a whole.

Not trying to hurt your feelings here, but it seems to me like you could use a bit of a refresher course. You made several "newbie" no-nos with your setup there, just from what we can see. I suggest reading some of the stickies on this forum and getting your set-up(s) and husbandry on point. It will only help you and the snakes.

Good luck, we are here if you have any questions.

[Craiga 01453]

Oh and how are you measuring temps and humidity?