Dumb question for those who don't use uth

[chrid16371]

So I've seen a lot of people on here that don't use uth and I was wondering how you get a basking temp of 90 inside the hot side hide? I would think if inside the hide was 90 then the outside and on top of hide would be a lot hotter. Do you not give them the basking temp inside the hide or how does it work? Be good to know just in case a uth failed on me.

[JodanOrNoDan]

Not a dumb question. It is my understanding that the 90 degree hot spot is only required to allow the animal to balance itself. If the ambient is at optimal body temperature there is no need for a balancing act. I very rarely see my animals on the hot spot unless the ambient drops below 80. So far I am hearing of an ambient between 81 and 84 but it has not been confirmed. See the following thread.

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...65#post2419065

[LittleTreeGuy]

I think it's also possible with a che or rhp to have it off-centered and create a hot spot in the enclosure of near 90 degrees. Then, the other end of the enclosure would naturally be a little cooler, still creating a small variant in temperature.

[Polyangler]

The inside of the hide hide under my RHP reads the same as the outside when shot with a handheld thermometer. It's also a thin resin that is a good conductor of heat. A heavy wood hide or thick light colored plastic might vary. Not sure though since I don't have one. I do have a small (size of your hand) UTH for a hotspot, but it really gets used. Half the enclosure is a constant 88 deg under the RHP, and the other side fluctuates from 79 - 81 deg depending on the ambient temps of the house.


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[Crowfingers]

I had the exact same question and problem when I first set up my tank. I use a CHE for the hot side, but getting the inside of his hide to 90 was impossible. My solution was to use a terracotta pot. I drilled a hole in the bottom of the the pot and set it in upside down so the snake has to enter from the top. I put this directly under the CHE and have the thermostat probe hanging level with the top of the pot. This keeps the inside at 89-90 and the top at no more than 91.5*F. I have a second pot next to the hot one with wet moss. This one stays at 84-86 just from being near the CHE. Then I have a hide mid way between the CHE and my other heat lamp that is around 82.5-83*F and one that is no where near heat that is around 80.5-81.5*F. Humidity is always between 50 and 75 depending on if he is in shed or not.

[Polyangler]

The inside of the hide hide under my RHP reads the same as the outside when shot with a handheld thermometer. It's also a thin resin that is a good conductor of heat. A heavy wood hide or thick light colored plastic might vary. Not sure though since I don't have one. I do have a small (size of your hand) UTH for a hotspot, but it really gets used. Half the enclosure is a constant 88 deg under the RHP, and the other side fluctuates from 79 - 81 deg depending on the ambient temps of the house.



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Wow! I should have proof read this before hitting submit!

That's *hot hide*, and *rarely gets used*. Thanks auto correct...

[Sauzo]

You don't need a hot spot per say as long as the ambient is warm enough. I don't use UTH, only CHEs in glass tanks and RHPs in PVC cages. They will heat something put under them like a flat rock or a plastic hide but its not needed. My gals only very rarely sit directly under the heat source. Most of the time they are on the cool side which is 79-80 depending on the fluctuation in the room. Only time I catch them under the heat source is sometimes during a shed or right after eating a large meal.

Also remember, too much heat will do more damage than too cold also. That why I keep my spots under the heat sources set at 88 with my Herpstat probes hanging directly under the CHEs and RHPs about an inch or 2 off the cage floor.