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Humidity issue
My BP is getting ready to shed. I am having issues keeping her humidity up. it has been ranging from 20-45% the last few days. She is a classroom pet. We mist her tank several times throughout the day and while we are here it will stay close to 50%. When I come back in at 7 am it is down to 20%. I took a towel today and got it damp and laid it on op of the cage and placed the light off to the side where the towel did not cover it. (No the light is not on top of the towel) I am hoping this helps. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. I am thinking of buying a humidifer for my room bc the heat unit makes it so dry in here anyways.
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Humidity issue
You can see how the towel works out.
Assuming that you have have a screen top, it can rust.
Me and other members have found foil to work wonders.
I wrapped mine in cardboard to get a nice tight seal.
My top has a crossmember, so I have four pieces which works out great because at times my humidity gets too high and I can remove one or two pieces to regulate.
Best
Last edited by Reinz; 02-12-2015 at 12:19 PM.
The one thing I found that you can count on about Balls is that they are consistent about their inconsistentcy.
1.2 Coastal Carpet Pythons
Mack The Knife, 2013
Lizzy, 2010
Etta, 2013
1.1 Jungle Carpet Pythons
Esmarelda , 2014
Sundance, 2012
2.0 Common BI Boas, Punch, 2005; Butch, age?
0.1 Normal Ball Python, Elvira, 2001
0.1 Olive (Aussie) Python, Olivia, 2017
Please excuse the spelling in my posts. Auto-Correct is my worst enema.
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Wrapping it cardboard is a fantastic idea. I've never thought of that before but am definitely trying that one tonight.
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Unfortunately screen-top tank + heat lamp = low humidity. You can fix and fix all you want but you're fighting the laws of physics.
The other posters have given you some good options. I would add:
- Get a plexiglass top to put over the screen, with a hole cut in it where the heat lamp would go. It's not expensive and there's less of a fire risk than putting cardboard or fabric close to the heat lamp, especially if your students will be handling the snake and its setup.
- Make a humid hide. An inexpensive option is to get a plastic food-storage container large enough for the snake, cut a corner off of the lid for an access hole, and fill the container with damp spaghnum moss or put in a layer of damp cocoa-husk. The downside to this is that every snake I've provided with a humid hide also uses it as a potty, so it needs cleaning often and the snake can end up messy as well. The upside is the rest of the enclosure stays clean.
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Registered User
Re: Humidity issue
Thank you for all the suggestions! Yes it is a screen top. The set up was bought with a classroom grant so the screentop is what came with it. I will definitely look at getting something different when I take her home this summer.
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Damp spaghnum moss and cypress are your friends
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Re: Humidity issue
 Originally Posted by bcr229
Unfortunately screen-top tank + heat lamp = low humidity. You can fix and fix all you want but you're fighting the laws of physics.
The other posters have given you some good options. I would add:
- Get a plexiglass top to put over the screen, with a hole cut in it where the heat lamp would go. It's not expensive and there's less of a fire risk than putting cardboard or fabric close to the heat lamp, especially if your students will be handling the snake and its setup.
- Make a humid hide. An inexpensive option is to get a plastic food-storage container large enough for the snake, cut a corner off of the lid for an access hole, and fill the container with damp spaghnum moss or put in a layer of damp cocoa-husk. The downside to this is that every snake I've provided with a humid hide also uses it as a potty, so it needs cleaning often and the snake can end up messy as well. The upside is the rest of the enclosure stays clean.
What you say make sense. However in my case I was having a problem with TOO MUCH Humidity.
My adult snake was only staying on the cool side and laying in the water bowl. Thus splashing it out daily.
Humidity went to 80 + and temp dropped to 68 and she was loving it!
I've had all the foil caps off for 3 wks now to keep it stable at 60%.
Fire risk? The cardboard is wrapped, and keep it 1/4 " + away from lamp. It only gets warm.
So for the time being, I'm quite satisfied with coconut husk substrate and foil cap regulators for humidity control for me.
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BPnet Veteran
as well as providing a temperature gradient, i make it a point to provide humidity gradients especially for snakes on shed process. there's a dry hide and humid hide. i do not want the entire enclosure to be too humid.
1.0 pied
0.1 spider het pied
0.1 normal het pied
1.0 pinstripe het albino
0.1 albino
0.3 normal het albino
1.2 cinnamon
0.1 lesser
0.1 bumblebee
0.1 pastel
0.2 normal
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Re: Humidity issue
 Originally Posted by Reinz
What you say make sense. However in my case I was having a problem with TOO MUCH Humidity.
My adult snake was only staying on the cool side and laying in the water bowl. Thus splashing it out daily.
Humidity went to 80 + and temp dropped to 68 and she was loving it!
I've had all the foil caps off for 3 wks now to keep it stable at 60%.
Fire risk? The cardboard is wrapped, and keep it 1/4 " + away from lamp. It only gets warm.
So for the time being, I'm quite satisfied with coconut husk substrate and foil cap regulators for humidity control for me.
Your problem is easier to fix by using a larger water bowl but only fill it 1/4 to 1/3 of the way up, so when the snake climbs in the water doesn't overflow.
Also, I was concerned with the fire risk since OP's snake is in an elementary school classroom environment, based on other posts. So, all one of the kids has to do is put that heat lamp in slightly the wrong spot, and that cardboard is going to scorch. You're likely more careful with your setup.
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I know a similar suggestion was made. I have several humid hides made out of Rubbermaid containers (but I swear I have a couple who just won't go in). So another fix I found is putting damp sharugum moss in their hides. It works fantastic during shed cycles.
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