Feeding question with a "twist"

[h20hunter]

Our BP, Snickers is a full grown, healthy female (I was told) adult (7years old) normal. Husbandry is good with even temps, basking areas, water, security, no worries. She has only been with us for a year plus a bit and has about doubled in size with proper feedings. She is currently on meduim f/t rats and for the most part was eating like a champ every week to 10 days. She has refused food that last few attempts with apprently no ill affects. He size is good, weight is good, temprament is good, shed is good. My thinking is she is just being her usual BP self. I have one more rat that is thawing as we speak (last attempt to feed was a last week) and will offer it to her tonight. If she eats, great, if not, I'm not yet concerned.

Now, to my question. My local pet store sells f/t as well as live feeders. They are not sold as pets and fed on the hush hush. They are sold as feeders. My thinking, to save a few bucks and to not waste the rat is to buy live, kill, and offer. If she eats great, if not I can now freeze and offer at a later date. My question revolves around the best way those with experience believe it is the most humane to dispatch the rat.

Option 1. Cervical dislocation. I have reviewed how to do this and feel I can accomplish the task quickly.
Option 2. Dry Ice asphyixiation. I have a local store that carries it, could store it in my deep freeze, and understand how the process works.
Option 3. Brain spike. I have various instruments that could be used to quickly spike the brain resulting in a quick death.

As a hunter I have killed, cleaned, butchered, and eaten game animals. I would not say I "enjoy" the process of taking the life but have respect for it and do my utmost to bring the animals I've killed to the fastest end possible. Even though they are little old rats I still believe in being humane.

So, that being said, I'd like to hear opinions and suggestions on feeding freshly killed as well as those that have experience in pre-killing their snakes prey.

Also, I have no problems with those that feed live but since ours isn't on live, and has never needed to be, I see no reason to consider that as an option until way down the line when the health of the snake may be in question.

[Stewart_Reptiles]

When euthanasing weather you are feeding P/K or F/T it all about the method that works for you based on your skills and efficiency and the number of preys you have to dispatch.

I breed my own rodents so any surplus or animals that have reach optimal size is euthanize because of the number I use a CO2 kill chamber now if I only had to do one animal at the time I would chose cervical dislocation.

[SKO]

I just did my first cervical dislocation yesterday. It was quicker than the co2 way I imagine. It felt weird to do but it was for a purpose and in a quick humane way.

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[h20hunter]

SKO....Thanks for the reply. I've read and watched. It appears as simple as getting a good grip behind the head and tail. A sharp quick pull does the job. Any concern about the rat biting at you? I plan to wear gloves for cleanliness, grip, and protection.

[Drake Moonslayer]

Luckily for me the shop I go to does the pre kill for me. I would imagine that the rat probably knows whats coming and would most likly try to retaliate by any means possible by biting or scratching. I would think some kind of heavy duty gloves like welders gloves might be best.

Again I have no personel experience just my thoughts.

[h20hunter]

Agreed. My local shop that sells is not allowed to do the killing.

I think the key when I'm hands on will be somewhat similiar to handling the snake. Be assertive and sure about the handling, don't "linger". Not to be to crass but I think the "grip it and go for it" will be best to not stress the prey animal any extra than is needed.

[GoingPostal]

I co2 rats, not comfortable using CD on them, I have used dry ice, now have a co2 tank setup. I do cervical dislocation on mice if there's just a few. You can't really store dry ice very long though, you'd have to buy it at the time you needed it which makes it a bit more hassle.


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[Kibbleswhites]

I use a paint can opener to pin the head then pull the tail hard. I make sure not to let the rat get over 150 grams otherwise the kill is not quite as smooth since the neck muscles are stronger.

[SKO]

Just do it quick and be forceful about it. Some twitching might happen even though its already dead. Gloves would be alright to use if you're worried about it biting you. If the rat is calm and you do it quick enough though then it won't get the chance to bite you. In the video I watched, the guy had something for the mouse to hold onto with its front paws so that gave it a pencil to hold onto. It works alright and it was quick.

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[alucard0822]

Now I have a couple decent supplies of frozen, and prefer to stock up with a few months supply, sure you might waste a couple, but kinda comes with the territory. I used to pre-kill a few and freeze, CO2 was a bit complicated, CD is much easier and simpler for me. I wear mechanix gloves, good grip, won't get scratched, would have to be one hell of a bite to get through, but that isn't likely if you handle by the tail. I used a small plastic cutting board and a wide plastic putty knife with the edge rounded, both must be easy to clean if the rat messes on the board. Hold the neck down and trap the head with the putty knife, pull the tail upwards about 45 degrees hard so the body stretches out and relaxes instantly. If you then plan to freeze or if the snake won't take it, put it in the back with the freezer on a peice of cardboard at a cold setting so it freezes about as quick as it can, will be much better when it thaws than if it freezes slow and ices up.