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Thread: Ball not eating

  1. #1
    Registered User darkensilence's Avatar
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    Ball not eating

    Hello! I know this question has been asked a million times on this forum, but I wanted to ask for myself with the specifics of my situation. My Ball python isn't quite an adult, however I am unsure of the age as I didn't get him from a breeder (in fact I'm not even sure of the gender). So Jake, my assumed male snake, has always been a great eater since I got him, even though he seemed a bit under weight when I got him. He was small enough that I fed him a mouse every week, and eventually I've taken him to small/med rats about every 10-14 days. He didn't take this change in food harshly, in fact he surprised me by attacking the rat as soon as I placed it in his encloser. I have also always fed him in his tank. I began to notice that he was starting to our grow his tank and hide, so I replaced his hide with the best thing I could find-A smallish card board box. I am unable to buy him a new tank at this time, but he isn't all TOO big for it yet though. The tank I have has a lot of trouble with humidity, and I usually have to mist it multiple times a day. The substrate is the coconut shaving stuff that has the consistency of dirt-Eco Earth Reptile Substrate I think. He also has problems shedding, and especially has problems with his eyes. One eye, recently, has a blue cloudiness to it(different from pre-shed), and it looks like he scraped it on something hard-what I'm not sure of. He has shown signs of not being able to see clearly; and his eye coverings are always wrinkled even at correct humidity. I'm assuming it was something to do with his original owners, since I got him like this and underweight.
    However through all of this (and two moves) he has never once deterred from eating. I watch to make sure that feeders don't harm him, especially since he cannot seem to see them very well. However, this feeding time he seems almost intimidated by the rat, and strays away from it. At first I figured this rat was particularly too big, and I got him a smaller one instead. He is giving the same reaction. I have waited a few days, and introduced the rat again today. This time he does not even go into attack or defense mode; he just sits there and lets it run around that tank.
    I'm wondering if it is the first rat that perhaps scared him, since it did run up to his face and made him rear back before I took it out. I know I wrote a figgin book about my snake, but I just wanted to cover all possible bases so maybe one of you can point out what I'm doing wrong, or what might be up. Also, how long should I wait to feed him again; and what strategies can I use? I've had a baby garder that refused to eat, but I obviously cannot use the same techniques since she was on frozen food.

    ps I know I need to take him to a vet for his eyes; unfortunately where I live there really is no herp vets any where close, and I don't have the money to take him to one yet. It is planned however.

  2. #2
    Registered User thejennabird's Avatar
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    Re: Ball not eating

    Ok, let's take this bit by bit.

    Quote Originally Posted by darkensilence View Post
    The tank I have has a lot of trouble with humidity, and I usually have to mist it multiple times a day. The substrate is the coconut shaving stuff that has the consistency of dirt-Eco Earth Reptile Substrate I think.
    Those mesh-top lids let out all the humidity. Do you have the top of your tank covered with tin-foil? If not, you should try following these instructions to improve the humidity. Eco-earth will certainly help! You may also scatter some damp sphagnum moss around to add additional moisture.

    Quote Originally Posted by darkensilence View Post
    He also has problems shedding, and especially has problems with his eyes. One eye, recently, has a blue cloudiness to it(different from pre-shed), and it looks like he scraped it on something hard-what I'm not sure of.
    Can you post a picture of what you're talking about? Could be a retained eye cap, could be something else. If you post a picture here people can help you determine how urgent it is you see a vet. Covering the top of the tank and increasing humidity will also help with future sheds.

    Quote Originally Posted by darkensilence View Post
    Also, how long should I wait to feed him again; and what strategies can I use?
    Wait at least a week between feeding attemps, and even two weeks would be better.

    It's not uncommon for adult BPs to go off food this time of year, but you need to rule out husbandry issues before you can assume that. Outside of the low humidity, what are conditions like in your tank? Hot side, cold side, thermostat, etc.
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  3. #3
    BPnet Senior Member Solarsoldier001's Avatar
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    Ball not eating

    Assuming that all the temps are right. Hot and cool side. The humidity in those mesh tanks are very hard to keep. Just like thejennabird suggested, foil on top would help. Some others just takes a towel on one side too. Just incase. As far as the bad sheds. Keeping the right humidity will help for future sheds. Some people get a humidifier too. If you do the foil thing and spray water a few times more while they are in shed, jakes next shed should be better. If he has a rough shed again, I'd suggest water soaking. Or to put a warm cloth and the snake in a pillow case for a hour or two. And when you take him out jake should be better.

    As far as the eating. If you he doesn't eat I wouldn't be worrying unless he starts to drastically lose a lot of grams. But I had adult males go off feed for 8 maybe 9 months. They'll eat when they want to.

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    Last edited by Solarsoldier001; 12-12-2014 at 02:19 AM.
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  4. #4
    Registered User Gemma's Avatar
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    The towel trick worked wonders for me. I had all the daggon trouble in the world keeping Gemma's humidity up when I first got her. I dampened one towel, placed it over 3/4ths of her lid, then placed a dry towel the same length on top of the damp one. Now I mist her enclosure maybe 2, 3 times a week instead of 2, 3 times a day. Her humidity stays in range & the ceramic heater & water bowl she's got in there with her do great together.

    As far as everything else, I can't really give any advice because I haven't experienced it yet. >.< I hope the humidity trick helps out, though!

  5. #5
    Registered User darkensilence's Avatar
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    With his sheds I usually soak him in warm water in my bath tub. Jake loves lounging in the water, and I help the shedding by massaging the unshed skin-note I'm not pulling it off just lightly rubbing the spots where the dry shed is clinging to him. As for the information about keeping humidity inside a mesh top, I'm very happy for! I've heard of putting towels and stuff on top of the cage, but I'm confused because I rest my lamps on the top of the cage, and they aren't very high wattage since I do rest them there. The temperature usually stays around 70-80 degrees.

  6. #6
    BPnet Senior Member Solarsoldier001's Avatar
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    Re: Ball not eating

    A BP warm side should be 88-90 degrees and the cool side in the 80's I believe. We use belly heat so that's what we keep ours at. We don't have a heat lamp.


    Sent from iPhone 6 using tapatalk
    Boys:________________________________________________________________________________ __________________________
    Pewter - Dexter | Butter 100% Het Orange Ghost (Hypo) - Butters | Super Fire - Mr. Buttons | Mystic - Charming | Banana Enchi Woma - Gizmo |
    Girls:________________________________________________________________________________ __________________________
    Pinstripe - Honey | Mojave - Maya | Lesser - Pepper | Calico 50% Het Orange Ghost (Hypo) - Jewel | Normal 100% Het Pied - Hinata | Butter 100% Het Orange Ghost (Hypo) - Aurora | Spider 100% Het Orange Ghost (Hypo) - Betsy | Blue Eye Leustic 50% Het Orange Ghost (Hypo) - Snowflake | Spinner Blast - Jasmin | Butterbee - Ariel | Hypo Butter - Penelope |

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