Force feed pedialyte?

[12piebald]

Purchased a male pied (hatch oct 12'- foot 1/2long, 680 g) from a reputable breeder and he arrived jan 14, 2014. His last meal was jan 9 shed jan 13. When he arrived he looked healthy and shiny. He started in a glass 30inch x12x12 critter cage. 2 weeks ago I received a PVC cage 48x24x24 from Jim. The cage is loaded with hides, repti-bark substrate. Temp is high 80's on hot side and low 80's cool side. Humidity is between 40-50. This cage set up is the next best thing to the wild.

HOWEVER, he has not ate since arrival. I first tried a FT small rat (size was perfect) a week after arrival and he refused. Waited another week and tried the same with no luck. Next I purchased a large LIVE mouse, not interested. Last I tried a FT large mouse and of course no luck. He's had interests with his tongue but will not strike and lacks aggression. NOW I've noticed small brown spots scattered on the belly and parts of the white body have a pink tint.

i thought he had beginning stage of scale rot so I called a vet and went today. The vet wasn't concerned with the pink tint and said the random scales weren't a concern bc there wasn't liquid buildup underneath the scales. His concern was Yoshi's lack of nutrients and dehydration. He then took out a syringe and showed me how to force feed a liquid diet. He said to feed pedialyte (small amount) everyday for a week. Then he gave me Carnivore care that will assist feeding. You mix with water and gradually increase the nutrients and less water each week. He said after the package is complete then to try feeding a pinkie (start from the bottom and increase size). The reason he said to use the liquid first is because a mouse could be swallowed but not digested correctly due to dehydration.

im sure this is a beaten topic but before I commit to this I wanted opinions and know if anyone else has experienced this?

Thank you

[Wizard]

Does your vet specialize in herps? If not, then I would get a second opinion.

[J.P.]

I have experience with ball pythons going off feed for longer and did not have to force feed. Having it for a short time and getting new enclosure could mean it just needs time to adjust. Reluctant feeders eventually eat fine once they settle in their new home. Also, Pink belly scales is early sign of shedding, and many but not all ball pythons refuse to eat at this stage.

The vet seems unfamiliar with ball python care. I suggest you find one with herp experience and get a second opinion before subjecting your snake to extreme yet totally unnecessary treatments.

[771subliminal]

the cage might still feel to big for him and he feels unsafe and stressed out.

try blocking off most of the cage to a area around size of a shoe box. then leave him alone for a week. then I would try to feed him a sm mouse or hopper rat depending on what he was eating b4. Dont assist feed til a last resort. i have never heard of a liquid assist feed like that either.

[satomi325]

He is a mature male. They go off feed in the winter for the breeding season. So him not eating is perfectly normal.
How much does he weigh now?

Can you take pictures of his belly and pinkness?
Brown spots can be really minor scale rot.
Pink body? Could be staining of the reptibark, which can happen.
Or is it just a pink belly. Pink belly could mean a burn or oncoming shed.


Force feeding should be a dead last resort. Like, absolute last resort.
And tube feeding even later. Carnivore care is great stuff, but again, last resort. I personally wouldn't tube feed yet. Its a highly stressful act that can actually make your situation worse.

As for dehydration, you don't need to syringe him anything. You can just leave him in a tub or sealed container of warm pedialyte bath. That will rehydrate him just fine.
But if your humidity is good and there is a water dish in his enclosure, I sort of doubt he's dehydrated.

[JMinILM]

Sounds like a bad idea. I've had many go that long or longer and be perfectly fine. Also with the recent move not eating great makes sense, just keep working with the environment until you get the conditions that make the snake happy.

[Stewart_Reptiles]

First no food since 01/09 for a 600+ grams animal is NOTHING and you are jumping the gun here by thinking about force feeding.

What need to be addressed here his your husbandry, you do not force feed an animal unless it is an hatchling that has never taken a meal or an animal on death's door.

In less then a month your animal has not ate and was move twice (once when he arrived second two weeks ago) and that can be one of your issue.

Since the enclosure is so big I would recommend to move him to something smaller temporarily and until your animal is a consistent feeder.

Get a 28 quarts tub (roughly 23" L x 16 1/4" W x 6" H), provide a hot spot of 88 degrees and a cooler area of 76/78 degrees), provide a tight hide (all sides touching your BP's body) wait a week and offer the same prey type/size that was previously accepted when feeding. In the meantime NO HANDLING

As for your vet, find another one he has no clue

[FireStorm]

He is a mature male. They go off feed in the winter for the breeding season. So him not eating is perfectly normal.
How much does he weigh now?

Can you take pictures of his belly and pinkness?
Brown spots can be really minor scale rot.
Pink body? Could be staining of the reptibark, which can happen.
Or is it just a pink belly. Pink belly could mean a burn or oncoming shed.


Force feeding should be a dead last resort. Like, absolute last resort.
And tube feeding even later. Carnivore care is great stuff, but again, last resort. I personally wouldn't tube feed yet. Its a highly stressful act that can actually make your situation worse.

As for dehydration, you don't need to syringe him anything. You can just leave him in a tub or sealed container of warm pedialyte bath. That will rehydrate him just fine.
But if your humidity is good and there is a water dish in his enclosure, I sort of doubt he's dehydrated.

^This sums it up pretty well.

[Phantomtip]

I think your snake is stressed from being moved to new enclosure and he's a mature male. Mine hasn't eaten since the end of November beginning of December. He's lighter in weight than yours but still a mature male. Keep track of his weight. I completely agree that force feeding is a complete last resort. It will stress him out more. If the humidity is good, and temps are good then relax on that score. He is probably about to shed also. Slow down take a breath. He just needs time to settle. The ddiscoloration I don't know anything about besides it could be the reptibark. I wish you all the luck with the little guy. Also don't try a pinky its too small. Try a rat pup when he does decide to eat.

[Slim]

As for your vet, find another one he has no clue

This Sounds like your vet jumped the gun as well and has little or no knowledge of ball python behavior and husbandry. As someone earlier said, the stress caused by sticking a tube down your BP has probably made the situation worse.