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Wanting to upgrade enclosure for my BCI
I just took a look at constrictors nw and their prices are reasonable too!
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Re: Wanting to upgrade enclosure for my BCI
 Originally Posted by Evenstar
I know some do, lol. I meant "these" as in the ones we were currently referring to. 
I'm willing to bet if you ask them they would cut the holes for you, I'm sure they wouldn't say no and refuse your business.
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Re: Wanting to upgrade enclosure for my BCI
 Originally Posted by Neal
I'm willing to bet if you ask them they would cut the holes for you, I'm sure they wouldn't say no and refuse your business.
Probably not, although I'm sure you'd have to pay for it. But they do customize. 
 Originally Posted by missriss2012
I just took a look at constrictors nw and their prices are reasonable too!
Ed is very reasonable, and if you contact him, he is great with communication and will help you a lot. Only thing is, he does not sell heat. That's where the cost comes up a touch. Now if you go with flexwatt, that is cheap. And Rich at Reptile Basics will prewire it for you. For one cage, I doubt you'd pay more than $10-20 for the flexwatt you'd need. 
I will go with ConstrictorsNW every time from now on. The cages are really well made and he's great to work with.
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Wanting to upgrade enclosure for my BCI
Are there any preferences between file watt and an ultratherm uth other than price?
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Re: Wanting to upgrade enclosure for my BCI
 Originally Posted by missriss2012
Are there any preferences between file watt and an ultratherm uth other than price?
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No - an Ultratherm IS flexwatt, just in a different package. The Ultratherm is slightly more portable and is simply plug and play. The flexwatt has to be trimmed to size and wired. But if you go through Reptile Basics, Rich will do that for you, so.....
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The Following User Says Thank You to Evenstar For This Useful Post:
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Wanting to upgrade enclosure for my BCI
 Originally Posted by Evenstar
No - an Ultratherm IS flexwatt, just in a different package. The Ultratherm is slightly more portable and is simply plug and play. The flexwatt has to be trimmed to size and wired. But if you go through Reptile Basics, Rich will do that for you, so..... 
Thank you! Flexwatt it is. I think we are going to end up going with the T10 later this year. Even though we really, really like the constrictors nw cages, we will be buying some of their pro stacks in the next few years.
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I went with Proline from Constrictors NW and I am very happy with the cages. I also went with RHP only and it has been working fine for me. The snakes know when to go where for the heat so I don't bother with the flexwatt (I also don't like the heat tape from RB because it is not a UL listed product, major safety concern for me). A lot of people also like Boaphile cages but I didn't go with them because I heard that they tend to absorb bio-fluids over time.
2.0 Red Tail Boa (BCC) - Neil, Hermes (Suriname)
0.1 Normal Ball - Moonlight (RIP)
1.0 BEL (lesser x mojave)
0.1 Pinstripe - Starlight
1.1 Dogs - Champ, Megan
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The Following User Says Thank You to ewaldrep For This Useful Post:
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Re: Wanting to upgrade enclosure for my BCI
 Originally Posted by ewaldrep
I went with Proline from Constrictors NW and I am very happy with the cages. I also went with RHP only and it has been working fine for me. The snakes know when to go where for the heat so I don't bother with the flexwatt (I also don't like the heat tape from RB because it is not a UL listed product, major safety concern for me). A lot of people also like Boaphile cages but I didn't go with them because I heard that they tend to absorb bio-fluids over time.
This is one reason I moved to ConstrictorsNW. Any pvc cage can do this. But Ed uses HDPE plastic. The following was taken directly from his website:
"[We use]....marine grade HDPE. It is designed for use in a harsh marine environments on ships. It is UV resistant, it is safe to use for you and your animal. Both USDA and FDA approved, meaning it is safe enough to eat off of. The plastic is 3/8ths inch thick and more rigid than typical HDPE (High Density Polyethylene) because it has 3 layers, a solid layer a slightly expanded layer and another solid layer give it a plywood like effect with an inner grain like wood to resist sagging. To top it off it is made of recycled plastic and is 35% lighter than standard HDPE plastic of the same thickness.
This plastic is ultimately chemical resistant meaning nothing sticks to it.. This makes these cages super easy to clean, the plastic won't stain, and nothing can bond to it."
I am going to be purchasing a few of the PL modular cages. The 48x23x14 is only $230 shipped and I can slap an Ultratherm under it on a Hyrdrofarm t-stat for only a little more.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Evenstar For This Useful Post:
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Re: Wanting to upgrade enclosure for my BCI
 Originally Posted by Evenstar
This is one reason I moved to ConstrictorsNW. Any pvc cage can do this. But Ed uses HDPE plastic. The following was taken directly from his website:
"[We use]....marine grade HDPE. It is designed for use in a harsh marine environments on ships. It is UV resistant, it is safe to use for you and your animal. Both USDA and FDA approved, meaning it is safe enough to eat off of. The plastic is 3/8ths inch thick and more rigid than typical HDPE (High Density Polyethylene) because it has 3 layers, a solid layer a slightly expanded layer and another solid layer give it a plywood like effect with an inner grain like wood to resist sagging. To top it off it is made of recycled plastic and is 35% lighter than standard HDPE plastic of the same thickness.
This plastic is ultimately chemical resistant meaning nothing sticks to it.. This makes these cages super easy to clean, the plastic won't stain, and nothing can bond to it."
I am going to be purchasing a few of the PL modular cages. The 48x23x14 is only $230 shipped and I can slap an Ultratherm under it on a Hyrdrofarm t-stat for only a little more. 
I called and talked to ConstrictorsNW. Though I called him earlier today he didn't answer and returned my call when I was sleeping(phone on silent), and I didn't recognize the missed call so I called him back about 9:30ish when I woke up to get ready for work and when I spoke to him. I asked about his cages and if he has the cut out for the lights up top and he was like: "I don't recommend that blah blah because something about humidity and lights." Well the thing is, I know that lights hit humidity, I also know how to keep humidity when using a light fixture and the only reason I'm even using one is for actual light. I keep the dimmer on it so it doesn't really put out much heat and at night I turn on the midnight bulb so it mimic the moon. While I appreciate his advice, he doesn't seem to be willing to listen to reason, and while I would pay extra to have the holes cut out up top, he didn't seem willing. Now while I'm not knocking his products, to me customer service is a mandatory thing and I just don't feel like the conversation we had went very good. It's a shame though because I really would of wanted one of those cages.
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Neal, may I ask why you are committed to using the lights at all? I am not being critical in the slightest - I just wondered because most boas and pythons do not need lights, uvb or not, and many do better without one. But are you working with a particular species that does need uvb? Or do you feel you need a light to raise ambient temps? If that's the case, there are alternative that won't affect the humidity.....
I'm only asking because a) it will help us understand your point of view and b) that may be why Ed was resistant to customizing his cages in this manner - he's a boa guy and 98% of his cages are designed with boas in mind....
Again, just curious - no offense intended!
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