Ball Python setup

[DarkPh0enix21]

Hello everyone. I'm thinking of buying a 3 week ball python from a breeder and I need some opinions before I go and buy her. If someone can answer these questions, it'd be greatly appreciated.

1. What's the best kind of housing for a ball python? I have a number of rubbermaid containers and an extra 10 gallon aquarium that I used to hold my bearded dragon.
2. What's the best way to heat them? I heard heat mats are best, but if so, what kind of heat mat?
3. When and what should I feed her?
4. What kind of substrate should I use for them?
5. Can I use lighting? There's a window right next to my bed, would that do fine, or would some kind of other lighting be beneficial?
6. How long do they take to grow?

I would like to know anything about them before I go about and make my purchase. But I know I want one. I held a fully grown male when I was a kid, and since then, I was in love with snakes. And now that I have the opportunity to, I'd like one of my own.

[Kaorte]

Welcome!!!

Let me take this time to thank you for doing your research before you get your new snake. Doing the research now will save you time, money, and give you peace of mind once you get the snake

1. The best housing is debatable. Do you want a display? I personally like tubs. Ball pythons don't really do that well as a display animal so not being able to see them doesn't really bother me. Plus it is easier for me to maintain temps and humidity in a plastic tub than a glass tank.

2. I use flexwatt heat tape, which is the same thing as a heat mat, but cheaper and sold by the linear foot. The catch is that you have to wire it yourself. Whatever heat source you use must be regulated by a reptile thermostat and measured with an IR heat gun or digital thermometer. Otherwise you risk cooking your snake.

3. 10-15% of the snakes body weight every 5-7 days is a good rule. Pinkie and fuzzy mice are too small for a hatchling, so dont even bother with those. Feed her at night for best results

4. I like paper towels but some other options are aspen, cypress mulch or newspaper/kraft paper. Whatever works for you.

5. You can use lighting, but it doesn't need to be anything special. They don't need any UVB or anything like that so don't waste your money on expensive bulbs. Go with fluorescent fixtures since they don't put out as much heat. Lamps will decrease humidity, so keep this in mind. Ball pythons do perfectly fine with no extra lighting.

6. There is no answer to this question. They all grow at different rates. I have a 4 month old that is over 400g but some have snakes of the same age that are still under 200g.

Ball pythons are great pets. I enjoy everyday I have with them Just be careful, they are addicting!! Soon you will want a dozen!

[DarkPh0enix21]

Thanks for the answers, this really helped me a lot! I was thinking about getting a clear rubbermaid container so she can see the daylight outside and not have to worry about all that then. Well that's good, and a whole lot less money. So for food, seeing how pinkies are too small for them, what's a good feeder mouse for them? A fully grown one? And for temperature control, seeing how I'll be using a rubbermaid container, will a heat mat burn through the plastic? I'd use the heat tape, but I'm no wiring expert and I may just end up messing it up in the process. And should I keep the lid on or off, and if on, should I make a hole there?

[The Serpent Merchant]

what size rodent depends on the size of the snake. for hatchling BP's a hopper mouse is usually about right. they quickly will then move up to adult mice or preferably rat pups. Then small rats, medium rats... you get the idea.

The heat mat must be regulated by a thermostat, without a thermostat to control the heat mat it will get hot enough to kill your snake (130+ degrees F) When regulated by a thermostat a heat mat shouldn't get much higher than 100 degrees. far below the melting temperature of plastic.

IF you buy flexwatt from this site along with a wire clip set they will wire it for you: http://www.reptilebasics.com/flexwatt-heat-tape

Here are some good thermostats, stay away from the junk sold in pet stores!

Budget: http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPR.../dp/B000NZZG3S

High Quality (much much better) http://spyderrobotics.com/home/products.html

I wouldn't put the tub directly in front of a window, they can act like a greenhouse, and trap heat from the sun light and get too hot.

You can leave the lid on but make sure that you secure it with clips.

Checkout these threads, they should answer many questions:

Caresheet: http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...ius)-Caresheet

Cage Heating: http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...t-Thermometers

How to set up a tub: http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...e-Basics-*DUW*

[Kaorte]

A hopper for a hatchling should be good for the first few meals, then you can switch to small adult mice. If you can, pick up a kitchen scale that weighs in grams so you can weigh your snake and its food. You want the prey to be about the same thickness as the snakes thickest part. Don't underestimate them! They can eat pretty big meals, even the babies!

As long as you have a thermostat that regulates how hot the heat mat will get, it will hot harm the plastic. It should be kept no hotter than 95* which is not even close to the amount of heat required to melt/burn plastic.

It isn't hard to wire, you can get clips for it though they cost a bit extra. I am handy with a soldering iron so I just go with that Whatever works for you!

Keep the lid on. A lot of people prefer the locking bins so the snakes can't get out, but I haven't had any snakes get out of my regular snap on lids. Poke holes in the sides of the tub so the humidity can't escape as easily. Test it out first. Put a hygrometer in the tub and poke 10-20 holes and see how the humidity does (with a full water bowl) If it is too high, poke more holes!

[Gene Collins]

Welcome to the wonderful world of ball python ownership. The previous responses nailed your questions perfectly. I too prefer tubs. I couldn't maintain humidity at all in an aquarium. Also don't forget the 2 hides for your snake. One over the heating pad and one on the cool side. They like to hang out in their hides and they need a nice temperature gradient so they can regulate their temperature. I also recommend the Reptile Basics website for the flexwatt tape. I wish I would have known about that stuff before I bought my UTHs. You can get the flexwatt stuff for less than half the price. Reptile Basics will assemble them if you buy the cord with the tape and ask in the comments box for no charge. They have really nice hides as well but most people seems to go with inexpensive self made ones. Dollar store bowls cut to size work great. Enjoy your new baby

[DarkPh0enix21]

Thanks for all of your quick replies! I was prepared to buy a lot of pointless things it seems. And thanks about that hide info, nailed it before I could ask it. Thanks everyone,, can't wait to call myself a python owner soon!

[Rusky]

If you haven't seen this already, make sure you are familiar with the care sheet

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...s%29-Caresheet

edit: I see someone posted it above me, but an extra look never hurt anyone :-p