Want to make custom cage stack but need advice

[korupted]

GOAL: I want to make a stack of cages similar in design to this but out of wood and all in one unit. Each cage would be roughly the same size as 30g Breeders, But one inch shaved off height and 2 inches added in depth (so each would be 12"H x 20"D x 36"W). I'd like to make this 4 units tall with a base and make another in the future. AND REMEMBER COST NEEDS TO BE MINIMAL!!!

Things I need advice on:

• What Kind of wood should I use to build this?
• Should I use Wood Glue or will that be toxic?
• As for heat I will use a 13.8" x 7.9" IntelliTemp Heat Mat on the inside of each cage, will this suffice?
• What fairly low-cost thermostat should I use?
• What kind of lighting do you suggest? will warm temp white LED strips suffice?
• What should I use to keep the inside from molding?

If this idea doesn't work I will just build racks to stack 30g Breeder tanks on instead out of steel.



Any advice would be appreciated!

[Argentra]

Sounds a lot like the 4 cage system I built long ago... so here are my suggestions based on experience:

What Kind of wood should I use to build this?
I use 1/2" exterior top grade plywood. @$12-13/4x8 sheet at Lowes

Should I use Wood Glue or will that be toxic?
To hold it all together? It may for a little while, but the best way to fasten is to use drywall screws. Wood glue can be used for external features like legs, but I wouldn't use it solely to put everything together.

As for heat I will use a 13.8" x 7.9" IntelliTemp Heat Mat on the inside of each cage, will this suffice?
Heat mats are plenty when used with a t-stat (that answer will follow). But since you can't just have the mat exposed, I use vinyl flooring in each cage over the mat placed on the wood floor with a few vent holes drilled in underneath. FYI I use ZooMed UTH pads.

What fairly low-cost thermostat should I use?
The best 'low end' t-stat is the Johnson or Ranco. They typically cost around $80 fully wired. Anything cheaper than that is a dial type and not to be trusted for full use. (In other words, they're only good for backups or QT)

What kind of lighting do you suggest? will warm temp white LED strips suffice?
I use closet lights for my cages, and my newest design will have them resting on a plexiglass window on the tops of the cages instead of mounted to the inside.

What should I use to keep the inside from molding?
For high humidity snakes, like BPs, I line the inside of my cages with vinyl. The floor is usually full sheet pieces, the 'ceiling' and sides are tiles, and the back (as I like using scrapbooking paper as backgrounds) is paper covered in clear 'tablecloth' vinyl sheet pieces. For other reptiles I simply paint all wood, both sides, with a latex based paint that is wonderfully water resistant.

Using these materials doesn't cost too much either... trust me, I've always had to build on a budget.

[korupted]

Sounds a lot like the 4 cage system I built long ago... so here are my suggestions based on experience:

What Kind of wood should I use to build this?
I use 1/2" exterior top grade plywood. @$12-13/4x8 sheet at Lowes

Should I use Wood Glue or will that be toxic?
To hold it all together? It may for a little while, but the best way to fasten is to use drywall screws. Wood glue can be used for external features like legs, but I wouldn't use it solely to put everything together.

As for heat I will use a 13.8" x 7.9" IntelliTemp Heat Mat on the inside of each cage, will this suffice?
Heat mats are plenty when used with a t-stat (that answer will follow). But since you can't just have the mat exposed, I use vinyl flooring in each cage over the mat placed on the wood floor with a few vent holes drilled in underneath. FYI I use ZooMed UTH pads.

What fairly low-cost thermostat should I use?
The best 'low end' t-stat is the Johnson or Ranco. They typically cost around $80 fully wired. Anything cheaper than that is a dial type and not to be trusted for full use. (In other words, they're only good for backups or QT)

What kind of lighting do you suggest? will warm temp white LED strips suffice?
I use closet lights for my cages, and my newest design will have them resting on a plexiglass window on the tops of the cages instead of mounted to the inside.

What should I use to keep the inside from molding?
For high humidity snakes, like BPs, I line the inside of my cages with vinyl. The floor is usually full sheet pieces, the 'ceiling' and sides are tiles, and the back (as I like using scrapbooking paper as backgrounds) is paper covered in clear 'tablecloth' vinyl sheet pieces. For other reptiles I simply paint all wood, both sides, with a latex based paint that is wonderfully water resistant.

Using these materials doesn't cost too much either... trust me, I've always had to build on a budget.

THANK YOU

as for the wood glue question, I should have been a tad more specific . I meant glue used in conjunction with screws.

would/could you have pictures of your floorboards with heat elements?

thank you for your advice! ill post in here with plan developments too!

[Argentra]

You are most welcome.

As for glue with screws (I thought that might be what you meant, but had to make sure), I use that on exterior pieces, such as legs, but wouldn't use it on any joint of the cage itself. When I need to use adhesive, like in addition to the vinyl tile adhesive and to seal the seams, I use clear hot glue.

Here are a few pics of my cages. This is the 4 cage unit I built long ago (now in the hands of another)


These are the cages my two remaining snakes are currently living in


Here is a pic of the interior of one of those BP cages. Closest thing I have to a pic of the floor.


The UTH pads, one on each side, are directly under the vinyl flooring sitting on the wood 'paper' side up. I drilled a large hole for the cord connection to sit in (on ZooMed pads it's a lump, and I wanted the pads to lay flat), and 6 ventilation holes 3 and 3 like the six side on dice.
My new version of the cage will have some changes, though. As currently I have to empty the cage and pry up the flooring to change the UTH, my new plans will have the UTH on a cutout of the floor (still with the vent holes) that will be hinged with a window latch to keep it closed. That way, all I have to do is lower that section of the floor and I can access the pad without needing to do anything inside the cage.

I'll be building the Mark 2 cages relatively soon, so I'll try to get some pictures of what it looks like. If you're still confused, send me a PM and I'll try to send you a drawing of it.

[korupted]

Thank you again for all your help! I will send a PM just for full clarity on a few things. I am going to draft out a few designs and maybe we can come up with a good design to fit both our needs? talk to you soon!

[korupted]

Just had an expensive break through, may need to just do a normal rack system... depends on which is cheaper.. but i may do some custom stuff in the future. diagrams and plans will be posted either way. thank you for your help!

[Argentra]

You're welcome. And I once built a rack as well for a LOT less than most folks sell them. I still have the instructional pics too, if you're interested gimmie a PM. Good luck!

[Gabe Rienzo]

kind of like this?


this was during temp testing and was still kind of under construction

[korupted]

kind of like this?


this was during temp testing and was still kind of under construction

this is beautiful.. this is exactly what i had in mind.

[satomi325]

You can save money by using Flexwatt heat tape instead of name brand heat pads.
Reptile Basics sells them for really cheap. And you can get a whole lot more for the money.

Also wood sealer works great for high humidity cages.