New owner/ Feeding, Temp , Humidity issues

[mrkrec]

I personally just use an infrared heat bulb 24/7, one less lamp and bulb, one less thing to worry about.. I also use it on a rheostat

Well here is another question that I've heard different opinions on..do they even need a 12/12 day/night light cycle? Cause I sometimes just keep the red night light on all day..

[The Serpent Merchant]

A daylight/dark period is not totally required, at least not an artificial one. The difference in the amount of light in the room during the day and the lack of light at night is usually enough. I have kept BP's in a cage with just an infrared bulb in the past with no negative effects.

[tlich]

And running your day time light will increase the temps, even fluorescent tubes give off some heat, not sure if it would effect the temps enough to make a difference, but back to you having readings of 102 in the enclosure, would not be good if these are accurate.

Edit: referring to running both lamps at the same time will increase the temps, so when shutting one off at night will give u night drops

[Vypyrz]

Hello, and to BP.net...

Was the refused rat larger than the previous rats that you offered? If it was, try offering a one that is a little smaller. Since your snake, at 41 inches, is clearly an adult, you could try putting it on a 10 day feeding schedule. Also, since you are feeding F/T, if he doesn't take the rat right away, try placing it about 2-3 inches in front of his hide, and leave it over night. sometimes BP's will come out later and eat. And, if he still refuses to eat, try switching to Aspen substrate. If you do this, make sure the substrate layer is only about 1/2 to 1 inch thick. Good Luck...

[mrkrec]

Hello, and to BP.net...

Was the refused rat larger than the previous rats that you offered? If it was, try offering a one that is a little smaller. Since your snake, at 41 inches, is clearly an adult, you could try putting it on a 10 day feeding schedule. Also, since you are feeding F/T, if he doesn't take the rat right away, try placing it about 2-3 inches in front of his hide, and leave it over night. sometimes BP's will come out later and eat. And, if he still refuses to eat, try switching to Aspen substrate. If you do this, make sure the substrate layer is only about 1/2 to 1 inch thick. Good Luck...

Thanks!

Ok , I just checked on him.. And his eyes are bluish/ cloudy wich means shed correct? So what do I do at this point?.. Just leave him alone as I've been doing ? And how many days am I looking at?

[The Serpent Merchant]

Yes, this means shed. you need to boost the humidity to 60%-80%, and leave him alone. after a few days his eyes will return to normal and a few days after that he will actually shed. your looking at about a week total. maybe more maybe less. Just keep the humidity up and everything should be fine.

[mrkrec]

Yes, this means shed. you need to boost the humidity to 60%-80%, and leave him alone. after a few days his eyes will return to normal and a few days after that he will actually shed. your looking at about a week total. maybe more maybe less. Just keep the humidity up and everything should be fine.

Since hes in shed , I assume I don't offer him food? Even though he hasn't eaten in 2 weeks?

[The Serpent Merchant]

Some will take food when in shed, some will not it doesn't hurt to offer.

[Becs080]

I would wait until he completes his shed. Often times, they'll defecate at the same time. So leave him alone - nice and quiet and stress free and wait until he's finished. Then it's your call - wait a couple of days and offer food or a day or whenever....but I would definately wait until after the shed. 2 weeks isn't long for a ball python and most wont eat during a shed cycle anyways.
All the best with your new guy :-)

[Becs080]

But aarons right too - some eat some don't. I have a few of my boas and a couple balls that always eat regardless of whether they're in shed or not. You'll get to know your snake and when to offer, when to not...etc.