Thinking about breeding my beardies

[aldebono]

I suppose you could... but then what's the point?

If I had "oops" clutches and had absolutely no way to supply feeders or rehome babies, then I would definitely consider culling all the eggs. I would also separate adult dragons because it didn't happen by immaculate conception.

To purposefully breed them and cull all but a couple because your friends want some beardies. No, I don't think that is right. They can buy or adopt, that would really help control the population.

[babyknees]

I suppose you could... but then what's the point?

If I had "oops" clutches and had absolutely no way to supply feeders or rehome babies, then I would definitely consider culling all the eggs. I would also separate adult dragons because it didn't happen by immaculate conception.

To purposefully breed them and cull all but a couple because your friends want some beardies. No, I don't think that is right. They can buy or adopt, that would really help control the population.

Agreed.

[sirchaosofgb]

I know only of 10 people who want beardies at this point...and my beardies are all separated not housed together! I think i've decided against it at this point!

[West Coast Jungle]

The original question is how to breed them so here is how I do it.

Most full grown adult beardies will brumate (not hibernate) during cooler weather. During this period they will sleep for days to weeks at a time consuming very little food or water if any. I usually shut down my UV lights at this point as there is no basking. I use Mercury Vapor bulbs which also provide heat so it will cool down considerably. In their native enviroment many beardies will burrow underground to brumate and ride out the colder weather that why I always have a hide as some will brumate at weird times of year.

When they wake up they will be really hungry and this is when I begin my higher fat meals for breeding females with more worms, pinkies, vitamin supplements and always greens and crickets. I give them a couple of weeks of feeding and normal behavior and then pair my females and males and watch them closely. Depending on personalities and history I may leave them together long term. Many will be fine but there is always a chance you get a real violently aggressive male and then you need to supervise and separate after confirmed breeding. The breeding ritual is aggressive and males will darken their beards, bob their heads violently and charge her. Females will slowly wave their front leg and bob head slowly in a submissive manner. When the male attempts and mouts the female he will bite the back of her neck and may cause minor wounds. While this may disturb some folks it's totally normal. I myself have never had a beardie seriously injure another but I have heard of cases when aggressive males are left long term with a companion.

I did have a pair together that were fine for weeks but when the female is ready to lay she went after him. You can tell when a female is ready as she looks like she ate a sack of marbles. At that point separate her and have an egg box in her enclosure. The egg box needs to be big enough for her to get into and dig down. I use damp(not wet) top soil and sand mix and put it in a 12-15 quart tub with a small kitty litter pan as a top with a hole cut in front side for her to get in and out. I put it near the heating element and get it around 82 degrees or so. I also have a rock or branch out side the box so she can get in and out easily as the tub is like 5.5 inches off the ground. Lay boxes are 80-90% full with soil mix and the plastic kitty litterpan cover(taped on) will make her feel secure and control the dirt from flying everywhere when she starts digging and boy will she dig.

I incubate at 83 degrees and use a damp, not wet vermiculte mix. Then watch them hatch

[sirchaosofgb]

The original question is how to breed them so here is how I do it.

Most full grown adult beardies will brumate (not hibernate) during cooler weather. During this period they will sleep for days to weeks at a time consuming very little food or water if any. I usually shut down my UV lights at this point as there is no basking. I use Mercury Vapor bulbs which also provide heat so it will cool down considerably. In their native enviroment many beardies will burrow underground to brumate and ride out the colder weather that why I always have a hide as some will brumate at weird times of year.

When they wake up they will be really hungry and this is when I begin my higher fat meals for breeding females with more worms, pinkies, vitamin supplements and always greens and crickets. I give them a couple of weeks of feeding and normal behavior and then pair my females and males and watch them closely. Depending on personalities and history I may leave them together long term. Many will be fine but there is always a chance you get a real violently aggressive male and then you need to supervise and separate after confirmed breeding. The breeding ritual is aggressive and males will darken their beards, bob their heads violently and charge her. Females will slowly wave their front leg and bob head slowly in a submissive manner. When the male attempts and mouts the female he will bite the back of her neck and may cause minor wounds. While this may disturb some folks it's totally normal. I myself have never had a beardie seriously injure another but I have heard of cases when aggressive males are left long term with a companion.

I did have a pair together that were fine for weeks but when the female is ready to lay she went after him. You can tell when a female is ready as she looks like she ate a sack of marbles. At that point separate her and have an egg box in her enclosure. The egg box needs to be big enough for her to get into and dig down. I use damp(not wet) top soil and sand mix and put it in a 12-15 quart tub with a small kitty litter pan as a top with a hole cut in front side for her to get in and out. I put it near the heating element and get it around 82 degrees or so. I also have a rock or branch out side the box so she can get in and out easily as the tub is like 5.5 inches off the ground. Lay boxes are 80-90% full with soil mix and the plastic kitty litterpan cover(taped on) will make her feel secure and control the dirt from flying everywhere when she starts digging and boy will she dig.

I incubate at 83 degrees and use a damp, not wet vermiculte mix. Then watch them hatch

Thank you for the suggestions and tips.