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Registered User
would a thermostat
i have a couple tanks that have a uth ,could i use a thermostat from Home Depot , to regulate heat temps
Last edited by Tatt2Python; 06-14-2011 at 06:55 PM.
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a dimmer will work if your room temps are stable, yes you can, but if you have alot of fluctuation, you have to constantly adjust. Or you could get a hydrofarm thermostat for $28
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"The greatness of a nation and its moral progress can be judged by the way its animals are treated." - Gandhi
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Registered User
what is the site to order one from?
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No a household thermostat will not work or at least will not work easily. Hydrofarm, ranco, johnson all will work they are ok if you are using something heavy (glass tank) or in direct heating (rack system) direct heat (stick on pad stuck on) on a light weight (plastic tub) material a proportional is best, and safest. A herpstat helix ve300, ecozone, or advanced viv systems.
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BPnet Veteran
Re: would a thermostat
 Originally Posted by kitedemon
No a household thermostat will not work or at least will not work easily. Hydrofarm, ranco, johnson all will work they are ok if you are using something heavy (glass tank) or in direct heating (rack system) direct heat (stick on pad stuck on) on a light weight (plastic tub) material a proportional is best, and safest. A herpstat helix ve300, ecozone, or advanced viv systems.
Proportional is not any safer than on/off thermostats. They do the same thing with different operation. Ive seen more proportionals failing or giving false readings than i have with johnsons/rancos.
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I'll give you that a proportional has a higher chance of failure. But with direct heat situations the probe lag, potential error range and set point range can amount to shocking large shifts.
My example the probe accuracy on all of the big three is the same, this is allowable by the manufacturer. Is within two degrees of correct high or low. The shift point is 1 degree from the set point. Add them together that can be as much as 3 degrees from true. Then add the slow response of the probe of five seconds to ten seconds.
The result is that the AVERAGE temps could be 3 degrees off either up or down. Then the spike is allowed to run for full power for five seconds. In my tests with a Johnson the tub hit 127.85ºF on the bottom for 6 seconds. Then dropped down to 81º for 5 seconds then back up again. To my mind this is simply unacceptable ranges.
These conditions occur when direct heat (UTH applied directly to the bottom or a plastic tub) and the room temp is not warm (my test room was 68ºF) Under this type of condition (typically the type that is common among new keepers) I do not believe that on off style controls to be safe. I have tested a Johnson for 4 days and saw this repeat over and over until the tub was moved to a warmer location, then the swing reduced somewhat but still was there.
Proportional sample multiple times a second and the triac controller will switch many many time to feather the temps. The probe accuracy of the VE300, Herpstat and helix (The others I didn't look at closely) range is 0.5º up or down. The largest spike I have managed to produce is less than 1 degree. (0.7) under the same conditions.
The fact that proportional fail is not the biggest concern the day to day shift is.
Again if there is any sort of buffer this range reduces dramatically, like not sticking the uth on the tub and leaving a 1/8 inch air space or sticking it to glass same thing. It is that one narrow place that they are unsafe. Unfortunately how many inexperienced keepers have exactly this a small tub in a cold room with a uth stick on the bottom and a cheap on/off control? 30% or more? This particular tool is not the right one for the job in this situation.
Gas cars can explode, they are unsafe, diesel cars are safer. Basically this is what you have said different product but same comment. All things equal it is fair but things are rarely that simple.
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BPnet Veteran
When ever i had proportionals set on my racks in 80F room i had to set them ot 96+ to get just a 89-90 in the tubs.
Johnsons i set all of them at 92 and inside is 90-91. The tubs sit directly on the heat tape which the tape never passes 105F when it kicks on.
Room temps is where you base your setup off of. If you want a steady temp with little fluctuations get proportional. But which ever you chose, keep in mind they are man made and electronic that can fail. So dont buy the most expensive one with the piece of mind its safer.
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You also do not have the heat fastened to the tubs that is not the what I stated at all. You have an air space that will even out the temps.
my suggestion is qualified by a context, the context where a On/off type fails to work as expected. I know of no one whom has been in the hobby for any length of time whom meets that criteria your post proves that.
On/offs do not work well when
A, the heat source is directly connected to the plastic tub. (UTH with is applied directly to the tub) and there is no air between the tub and UTH it is glued on the tub. (•not generally recommended and really not recommended for tubs!•)
B, The room temps are inconstant and cool (below 75º) and change night and day.
C. Plastic Tub.
These conditions emphasize the weak points and do take advantage of the strong points of the on/off style. Under these conditions the spike can be extreme.
Constant room temps with a small air space between the tub and heating element on offs work generally just as well as proportional units. Under these conditions the the strong points of the on off are exploited and weaknesses are minimized. This is not the situation a new person has this is a keeper with multiple animals and lots of gear and investment.
Looking at radicle shifting temps every few moments and the stress that will cause the snake inside, it is hard to look at potential failure when the animal is suffering now.
I test things everyday that is a big part of my job I test things personally because that is how I am trained, I trust nothing and test test test.
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