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  1. #1
    Registered User paintballerpunk722's Avatar
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    quick question about a custom encloser

    i made a custom encloser more for a diplay case for one on my balls its heating is perfect but it seems that the wood is sucking up the humidity is there a wood sealer that isnt toxic?
    1.10 normal,1.1 mojave,1.0 '10 spider,1.0 '09 spider,0.1 66% poss. het piebald,0.1 100% het piebald,
    1.1 pastel,1.0 het axanthic,2.0 het clown,1.1 het albino,1.2 100% het hypo,0.1 66% het hypo
    0.1 red tail boa
    1.2 rats
    1.2 gerbals
    0.1 mice(dwindleing from feeding snakes lol)

    http://www.wix.com/naturesbeautypythons/naturesbeauty

  2. #2
    Registered User Fataltix's Avatar
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    Yup, your standard water based polyurethane is great .

    Cheers,
    Fatal

  3. #3
    Registered User NoLaHeRpEr's Avatar
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    Or, you could paint it with like black exterior grade paint, and let it dry well. I've even heard of some ppl using drylock on it afterwards, so humidity isn't a problem, nor would spilled water. And in fact, I used a wood enclosure that I finished the inside with fiberglass once, and it worked really well!

  4. #4
    Registered User willieshotg3's Avatar
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    Re: quick question about a custom encloser

    uuuug i hate working with fiberglass!!!!
    1.0 albino BP Zeus
    1.0 lesser BP papa less
    1.0 spider BP Spiderman
    1.0 axanthic bp silver bullet
    0.1 spider BP Charlotte
    0.1 mojave BP Sandy
    0.1 pastel bp sunshine
    0.1 normal bp calypso
    0.1 het pied bp pandora

    1.0 hypo het albino bci red tailed boa

  5. #5
    Registered User NoLaHeRpEr's Avatar
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    Re: quick question about a custom encloser

    Quote Originally Posted by willieshotg3 View Post
    uuuug i hate working with fiberglass!!!!
    Me too, but the results are great! I've even seen aquariums made with plywood coated in fiberglass.

  6. #6
    Sometimes It Hurts... PitOnTheProwl's Avatar
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    Images: 3
    Biggest thing is to give it 10 to 14 days to cure BUT you already have moisture in the wood so you will need some time to let it dry out before coating.

  7. #7
    BPnet Senior Member kitedemon's Avatar
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    Fiberglas is a pain. Any polyurethane well cured is non toxic it is basically plastic. Heat and well ventilation is needed. Do not use spar varnishes, untreated polyester resin, and some tung oils, (watco "wacky" oil for one)

  8. #8
    BPnet Veteran rdoyle's Avatar
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    I would give it longer to cure. During winter it takes longer becouse of the cold

  9. #9
    BPnet Senior Member kitedemon's Avatar
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    The small ceramic heaters with the fans do wonders to cure paint and such use your nose to tell, you should not smell any painty smells at all and once you find that point (don't live in the same area as the drying paint...) double the time it took to get there. If you can't smell paint fumes after 3 days then wait another 6. If it takes a week then wait 2 weeks.

  10. #10
    Registered User paintballerpunk722's Avatar
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    Ok thanks guys I appreciate it
    1.10 normal,1.1 mojave,1.0 '10 spider,1.0 '09 spider,0.1 66% poss. het piebald,0.1 100% het piebald,
    1.1 pastel,1.0 het axanthic,2.0 het clown,1.1 het albino,1.2 100% het hypo,0.1 66% het hypo
    0.1 red tail boa
    1.2 rats
    1.2 gerbals
    0.1 mice(dwindleing from feeding snakes lol)

    http://www.wix.com/naturesbeautypythons/naturesbeauty

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