How to properly get temp readings...new snake owner

[kyleax1]

I just got my first snake last night, obviously a BP.

55 gallon thick glassed aqaurium
Snake is 3 ft long

The previous owner only used a UTH on one side and said it has worked great for over a year with just that.

The problem I find is I keep my apartment pretty cool...68-72F during the day and 60-68F at night.

Last night I did some temp testing and used a probe thermometer put half way between the substrate over the UTH and it got to a max of 72F throughout the night. After reading on here I will do another reading with the probe directly on the glass above the UTH to see how hot it is. But if I had to take a guess its still not going to be as hot as it needs to be. This aquarium glass is thick, thick glass.

I know where the temps should be and that the temps he was at is way too low so I'm going to fix that today, but I'm wondering about what part of the tank to test the temps at.

Obviously I want to test the glass temp on the cool side and the glass temp on the warm side, how about the top substrate temp on both side? How about a thermometer in the middle of the tank near the top to get an idea of the general ambient temp? If I use a ceramic light I assume I need a temp reading on top of the substrate directly under the lamp?

[Stubean15]

what i have now is 2 UTHs each hooked up to a thermostat to make a heat gradient mines 82-92 atm and it keeps ambient at like 81 ish and i have a glass also.. dont use a light unless you want to mist every 2 hours sooo time consuming lol..

and btw its easier to keep substrate temps good with repticarpet.. not as much insulation for the heat to travel through

and by the time you have washed it like twice its payed for itself compared to natural substrates

edit: this is were i learned http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...ass-tank-setup at the bottom it shows were to put your probe

[MitsuMike]

Last night I did some temp testing and used a probe thermometer put half way between the substrate over the UTH and it got to a max of 72F throughout the night. After reading on here I will do another reading with the probe directly on the glass above the UTH to see how hot it is. But if I had to take a guess its still not going to be as hot as it needs to be. This aquarium glass is thick, thick glass.

I want to say this is impossible. For the fact that a non regulated UTH can get above 130 degrees. I don't care how thick the glass is, it is hot enough.
I am guessing your method of measuring temps is wrong. Temps need to be measures at the ground level under substrate. BP's will burrow and if you measure temps other than the very bottom the snake could burn him/herself.
On a side note with such a low night temp you are going to have to insulate the tankglass with corkboard. I would also suggest wrapping the tank in flexwatt (3 sides) and set the tape at 80 degrees then use a UTH to heat the hot side to the 92. That should help keep temps normal 24/7.

[kyleax1]

I think I figured out that the probe is not giving a reading, so the only temp im getting is ambient from the remote location. So I will have to go get a new one later and see what temps I end up with.

[Valentine Pirate]

I'd suggest investing in a temperature gun, they aren't terribly expensive and give you instant accurate readings. Really useful tool, I end up using mine with all my herps

[Jeo123]

The talk about temp guns vs probes is still one that causes confusion for me and from the sounds of it the OP as well.

Temp guns measure the surface temp of the substrate. Probes measure the temperature of the glass/under the substate. I realize some substrates can easily be moved, but for example I know my snake doesn't try to get under the reptibark. She lays on top of it and compresses it sometimes, but there's always at least 1/4"-1/2" of substrate even at the shallowest points, so does the glass temp really matter?

It seems like the surface temperature is much more important than the glass temperature, especially with something that doesn't lend itself well to burrowing.

[MitsuMike]

The talk about temp guns vs probes is still one that causes confusion for me and from the sounds of it the OP as well.

Temp guns measure the surface temp of the substrate. Probes measure the temperature of the glass/under the substate. I realize some substrates can easily be moved, but for example I know my snake doesn't try to get under the reptibark. She lays on top of it and compresses it sometimes, but there's always at least 1/4"-1/2" of substrate even at the shallowest points, so does the glass temp really matter?

It seems like the surface temperature is much more important than the glass temperature, especially with something that doesn't lend itself well to burrowing.

You measure the glass temp because they are prone to burrowing. Your snake is choosing not to. Just like the snake chooses what side it wants to chill on (hot or cold). If your snake gets too cold it will burrow.

[kyleax1]

So I'm guessing Repticarpet and atro turf are the same?
I also assume that is used without any other substrate on top of it.
How does that hold humidity? I assume not that great.

[kyleax1]

Nevermind to the above, I found the answer from the link that was posted.

[bsavage]

I'm sure someone has suggested this, but temp gun all the way. That will be accurate instantaneously, and so there is no waiting around for a digi thermometer to stabilize.

My suggestions would be to ditch a turf or carpet substrate if thats what you have and use something the snake can burrow into for extra warmth. Obviously, glass temp is important regardless, because you never know when you're snake may burrow. You can always try thinning the substrate on the warm side(as many UTH manufacturer's suggest). Try paper towels, eco earth, shredded newspaper. And also, have a nice hide on the cool side.Just incase something gets a little too hot in the process, you're ball won't feel so insecure and let itself get burned.

If you have already covered any of this stuff, disregard it and pat yourself on the back.

Also, since you're using an aquarium, you may want to have an extra small crock of water on the warm side to help keep humidity up in the cage.

My final suggestion-Switch to a tub, makes life so much easier in my opinion, for you and the snake(though some may disagree with the snake having it easier...)
my

Edit: My tub is set up with a probe directly above the bottom of the tub but under the substrate on the hot side. That's how I get hotside readings. My coolside is measured by the the same thermoemter at the other end of the enclosure, fastened to the side. Also, thios gives me my humidity reading. I get constant, steady readings of 93 on the hot sides and around 80 on the cooler sides. Even when temp falls at night, the UTH seems enough to sustain temperatures as I've never seen the coolside fall below 77 even if the house is somewhere around 72. And 77 is pretty rare. Usually sits right on 80. I really just dont suggest a lamp of heat emitter for your tank, it will throw your humidity right out of whack. I hope all this randomized bits of info are helpful to you in someway.