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  1. #11
    BPnet Veteran j_h_smith's Avatar
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    Re: New rack w/ back heat... HELP!

    Think about it. Back heat doesn't radiate outward towards the tubs. Heat rises and most of the heat leaves the level you want to heat and escapes towards the next level. So, by the time you get to the top of 5 or 6 tubs, the bottom tub is going to be 10 degrees/or more cooler than the top few tubs. I've never seen how back heat can effectively work on any reptile rack.

    Just my opinion,
    Jim Smith

  2. #12
    Registered User AcePythons's Avatar
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    Re: New rack w/ back heat... HELP!

    Here's my lil page I made to show the setups

    http://www.acepythons.com/racks.html

    There is pegboard on the sides of the tubs and then the back is a solid wood with the flexwatt taped onto it.

    The top racks with the 15 qt tubs are actually working just fine, the temps are ok there. but the 41 qts are just not hot enough. Err well the top two are decent, but the bottom ones just can't seem to get it up there.
    Last edited by AcePythons; 02-01-2010 at 09:54 PM.
    -- Cat Haddow

  3. #13
    BPnet Veteran m00kfu's Avatar
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    Re: New rack w/ back heat... HELP!

    Quote Originally Posted by j_h_smith View Post
    Think about it. Back heat doesn't radiate outward towards the tubs. Heat rises and most of the heat leaves the level you want to heat and escapes towards the next level. So, by the time you get to the top of 5 or 6 tubs, the bottom tub is going to be 10 degrees/or more cooler than the top few tubs. I've never seen how back heat can effectively work on any reptile rack.

    Just my opinion,
    Jim Smith
    The rack needs to be properly insulated for back heat to work. I've got racks using both back heat and belly heat, both work equally well for me.

  4. #14
    BPnet Senior Member iCandiBallPythons's Avatar
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    Re: New rack w/ back heat... HELP!

    I would deffinately cover the peg board.
    Malcolm S.
    Premier Ball Python Mutations

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  5. #15
    Registered User AcePythons's Avatar
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    Re: New rack w/ back heat... HELP!

    Well either way I have to re-do it all anyway because I just read that I made a boo-boo with the flexwatt. I guess on the 11" you aren't supposed to cut through the black part like you can with the 3" and 4"?? So I think if I'm gonna re-do it I'll get the 3" from Big Apple and just do belly heat.
    -- Cat Haddow

  6. #16
    in evinco persecutus dr del's Avatar
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    Re: New rack w/ back heat... HELP!

    Hi,

    You're not supposed to cut any of them through the black part as far as I know - that is the conductive heat element.

    The only difference with the 11" is that you cannot cut it in less than 12" lengths from what I recall. You might be able to just trim it back to a clear plastic section and reuse it?

    You are supposed to cut thought the clear plastic gaps between them - and remember you need to use insulating tape over the ends of the contact strips down the sides before fixing it down with foil tape to prevent shorts and shocks.


    dr del
    Last edited by dr del; 02-02-2010 at 12:45 PM. Reason: adding middle paragraph
    Derek

    7 adult Royals (2.5), 1.0 COS Pastel, 1.0 Enchi, 1.1 Lesser platty Royal python, 1.1 Black pastel Royal python, 0.1 Blue eyed leucistic ( Super lesser), 0.1 Piebald Royal python, 1.0 Sinaloan milk snake 1.0 crested gecko and 1 bad case of ETS. no wife, no surprise.

  7. #17
    Registered User AcePythons's Avatar
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    Re: New rack w/ back heat... HELP!

    Quote Originally Posted by dr del View Post
    Hi,

    You're not supposed to cut any of them through the black part as far as I know - that is the conductive heat element.

    The only difference with the 11" is that you cannot cut it in less than 12" lengths from what I recall. You might be able to just trim it back to a clear plastic section and reuse it?

    You are supposed to cut thought the clear plastic gaps between them - and remember you need to use insulating tape over the ends of the contact strips down the sides before fixing it down with foil tape to prevent shorts and shocks.


    dr del

    Yes I got high temp electrical tape and covered the ends. I've read quite a few places that you can cut the smaller stuff all the way through .. hmm, well I will keep in mind next time I'm putting the new stuff on. Gonna order it today. In fact right now .. Anyway, thanks for all your help guys! I'll re-do the flexwatt with belly heat and then give an update
    -- Cat Haddow

  8. #18
    BPnet Veteran j_h_smith's Avatar
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    Re: New rack w/ back heat... HELP!

    Quote Originally Posted by AcePythons View Post
    Yes I got high temp electrical tape and covered the ends. I've read quite a few places that you can cut the smaller stuff all the way through .. hmm, well I will keep in mind next time I'm putting the new stuff on. Gonna order it today. In fact right now .. Anyway, thanks for all your help guys! I'll re-do the flexwatt with belly heat and then give an update
    If you cut any of the black lines running through the flextape, it's like cutting a wire. No electricity is going to pass through the cut area. So yes, you can cut the tape at the end of the run. No, you can't cut the tape to notch out the tape to clear a support anywhere in the area you want to heat. You also can't cut the side of the tape to make it thinner.

    But with 3 inch tape you just run it to the edge of the shelf , cut it, tape the edge, install the electrical wires on the other end and you have heat.

    Good Luck!
    Jim Smith

  9. #19
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    Re: New rack w/ back heat... HELP!

    If I remember correctly, you can cut the 11" flexwatt anywhere you want. However, each one of the black lines you cut will no longer heat. Because of the way the 11" is designed, when you cut it, the last 3" or so of it will not heat, so it doesn't work very well when you cut it this way. You have to plan ahead so you either need an exactly even number of feet of flexwatt, or you can have the last 3" of it in some place that doesn't need the heat as much (like at the top of the rack).
    Casey

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