A New Ball-Python

[Lucryth]

So I just acquired my python a little over 2 days ago now.
And I'm just here to discuss and learn things about them so I can keep him in good health.
He/She (can't tell yet the python is too young) is relaxing in a 20 gallon tank with a cozy hiding place on one side where the tank under-heater rests, with a good sized water bowl for drinking and soaking which sets closely to the Grapewood for climbing and exploring and such.
Now it sits at roughly 87-90 degrees Fahrenheit during the day in the hot area of the tank where the heater is and on the other side it stays at a constant, cool 85 degrees Fahrenheit.
I would dare say the set up is complete according to all the guides and all the advice I have gotten from other owners in the area I live.
He was last fed on Wednesday of this week.
Fed on live mice, and I was told every 4-5 days to feed him so its on the forth day and to no avail the snake does not touch the pinky mouse I placed in front of it.
I did it proper, heated the pinky up in warm water, placed the snake in a separate container with a heating pad underneath it and semi-moiste paper towels to keep it warm and content, yet when I placed the pinky in there it did not touch it, maybe its not hungry yet?
I heard that its almost impossible to change them from live to froze, and then I heard it is possible to get a snake that eats live to eat frozen.
I was just curious to see other python fans opinions and such about the topics at hand.
Thank you in advance for all your kind advice.

[GirDance]

Well, the warm side should be around 80, and the hot around 90.

There should be one hide on the hot side and an identical one on the cool side, they don't typically climb so the vine could be removed to make more space.

They should only really be fed every 7 days or so, and once they get older 10-12 days, and I wouldn't attempt again till she/he has been settled in for atleast a week. Don't worry too much if he/she doesn't feed right now, being moved to a new home is stressful and they're shy.

Also, try to make sure your humidity is around 50-60, if it's not high enough try moving your waterbowl a little closer to or partially on top of your hot side.

Once he/she isn't stressed out it should eat for you just fine.

Also, try prescenting (there are stickys on how to do it, but you can put the mouse in a container with holes in it so that it's aroma seeks into the tank for half an hour or so before you attempt to feed, then dangle the mouse infront of the snakes hide using some tongs and it might be more likely to go for it.

and um... Hope I didn't forget anything, but definately enjoy your new little treasure, they are wonderful creatures

[Lucryth]

Its not so much a vine as it is a log for the snake to hide in, around.
The snake is still pretty young, and a 20 gallon is looks to be a bit big but knowing the snake will grow it makes sense to buy such a large tank to contain it in.
And thanks for the prescenting tips, I've never heard of that before.

[GirDance]

No problem, but I must stress, really get the two identical hides on each side, because if they prefer one to the other they will sacrifice thermoregulating for comfort!

20 is pretty big for a wee one, but if you have a few identical hides and the snake can maneuver around without feeling exposed you might be able to get away with it.

Prescenting seems to work very well, it gets them yearning for food... Here's the link: http://www.ball-pythons.net/modules....warticle&id=60

[Lucryth]

I set it up to where the BP could easily sneak across the tank without being seen.
It is still so small that it could just lay away under the grapevine driftwood without being seen at all.
its pretty hidden over all.

[dr del]

Hi,


to the site,

Here are a few good links to get you started.

Ball python caresheet.

Glass tank setup sticky.

Plastic tub setup sticky.

20 gallon is a little big for a hatchling - how big is your baby just now and where did you get her?

The most unpopular bit of advice we give is that it is a really, really good idea to let your new pet settle into her new home for at least a week - you can still clean the tank and change the water etc. but try and avoid handling/disturbing her as much as possible.

Feeding is normally recomended at 5-7 days for really young ones and unless she is really, really small a pinky mouse is too small for her - once we see how big she is we can recomend a size but hopper mouse is the most likely bet.

Also you don't need to move her from her house to feed her - in fact that can put nervous snakes off eating in some cases.

It's not impossible to switch most of them from live to F/T but there are plenty of people on here who use both methods with no issues.

Temps, as mentioned, are recomended to be 80-84 cool end and 90-94 warm end.

I'm sure there are things I've forgotten or questions you have so post anything you like.

Oh and we have a slight picture addiction problem so if you have any pics of her or her tank feel free to share.

Don't disturb her or anything though - we can wait a week ( we can wait a week can't we? ).



dr del

[Lucryth]

Roughly a week, she tends to just hide in the warmer spot of her tank occasionally I'll catch her sneaking around to the other side to see whats up.
I'm thinking that the UTH is a bit too small for the size of the tank because I'm about 3-5 degrees off on the proper heat.
Any tips on humidity?
How to regulate it?

[dr del]

Hey again,


If you check out the glass tank setup sticky I linked to in my previous post it has a section on covering over the tank lid safely to increase humidity.


dr del

[Lucryth]

Yea, sorry about that I jumped the gun.
Looks like a great idea/set up.
Thanks for the link

[rabernet]

I'm going to re-iterate what everyone else said. A 20 gallon tank is probably going to be too big for her now. There are alternatives to glass tanks, and that's tubs.

I don't set up babies in anything larger than a 15 quart tub. Ball pythons are very shy by nature, and a baby even more so, since they are more prone to predators. Just because it's in captivity now, doesn't take away that instinct to lay low and find the smallest, tightest area that they can.

As mentioned above, you need two identical hides, one on the cool side, one on the warm side. They need to be as small as possible, so that it is touching your snake on all sides (including the top) when it's inside it, otherwise it really isn't providing much security for your snake.

A pinky mouse is much too small, even for a baby. Try a live hopper mouse (eyes just open) next time. Also, you should wait a full week before offering it, it's first meal. It needs a full week of no handling before offering feed.

I feed IN the enclosure for all sixteen of mine. I've never been mistaken for food.

Here's what my baby tubs look like (and this baby was eating mouse hoppers, by the way)