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help with panther chameleon
We bought a Panther Chameleon in December 2006 to replace a beautiful veiled one that died (Vet gave him a few shots but couldn't save him ) Our other female veiled is doing great.
Well, the new chameleon was doing fine until now, the same thing is happening as the last chameleon we had, he has completely lost the power to uhhh..... shoot out his tongue. So, he hasn't been able to getting crickets lately, they are dusted with vitamin/mineral supplement stuff every other feeding I believe.
The chameleon really isn't mine, but my moms, so I don't ususally pay much attention to him, until now that this has begun happening. We have a large open screen chameleon cage, a red heat bulb, a regular strip bulb on him.
Any ideas what could be happening? The vet was clueless with our last chameleon, and there are no others in our area we can afford.
Last edited by Malaika; 05-03-2007 at 07:03 PM.
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Re: help with jacksons chameleon
Hi,
I am far from expert at cham's only having had a panther for a year so please regard this post as only a few questions to help the real experts help you when they get here.
when you say you have a regular striplight do you mean a full spectrum uv one?
Those also gradually lose their benefit over time and need to be replaced on a fairly regular schedule. When was it last replaced?
The reason I mention this is the only thing I know of that would prevent him shooting out his tongue apart from a direct injury to it is a weakening of the bones in the skull caused by metabolic bone disease.
I'm sure there are many other reasons I have just never ran across them.
Does he still drink ok and have you tried handfeeding him small treats such as mealworms? I know those will not be the best diet for him just now but I used to use them like "sweets" to train other lizards to hand feed.
Have you double checked all the housing conditions etc and could you go into a bit more detail about the setup to help the others assist you?
Are there any more symptoms or behavioural changes? Perhaps pictures may help as well if possible.
dr del
Derek
7 adult Royals (2.5), 1.0 COS Pastel, 1.0 Enchi, 1.1 Lesser platty Royal python, 1.1 Black pastel Royal python, 0.1 Blue eyed leucistic ( Super lesser), 0.1 Piebald Royal python, 1.0 Sinaloan milk snake 1.0 crested gecko and 1 bad case of ETS. no wife, no surprise.
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Banned
Re: help with panther chameleon
Really hate to offer medical advice because Im not qualified. A chameleon that cant eat is more than likely in later stages of some sort of problem. they can go quickly if you dont catch the problem right away. if you give the vitamin/minerals once a week thats OK for an adult. calcium every other day is good. increase temps and make sure its taking water and mist good so it does not dehydrate. find a good herp vet fast. if you wait the chameleon will not make it. best of luck.
Originally Posted by Malaika
We bought a Panther Chameleon in December 2006 to replace a beautiful veiled one that died (Vet gave him a few shots but couldn't save him ) Our other female veiled is doing great.
Well, the new chameleon was doing fine until now, the same thing is happening as the last chameleon we had, he has completely lost the power to uhhh..... shoot out his tongue. So, he hasn't been able to getting crickets lately, they are dusted with vitamin/mineral supplement stuff every other feeding I believe.
The chameleon really isn't mine, but my moms, so I don't ususally pay much attention to him, until now that this has begun happening. We have a large open screen chameleon cage, a red heat bulb, a regular strip bulb on him.
Any ideas what could be happening? The vet was clueless with our last chameleon, and there are no others in our area we can afford.
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Registered User
Re: help with jacksons chameleon
Originally Posted by dr del
when you say you have a regular striplight do you mean a full spectrum uv one?
Those also gradually lose their benefit over time and need to be replaced on a fairly regular schedule. When was it last replaced?
Does he still drink ok and have you tried handfeeding him small treats such as mealworms? I know those will not be the best diet for him just now but I used to use them like "sweets" to train other lizards to hand feed.
Have you double checked all the housing conditions etc and could you go into a bit more detail about the setup to help the others assist you?
Are there any more symptoms or behavioural changes? Perhaps pictures may help as well if possible.
dr del
Its a UVA/UVB Combo, and its on about 10 Hours a day. It was last replaced, oh, 1 1/2 ago.
He refuses to eat anything but crickets, doesn't look at mealworms, waxworms, silkworms, wheter by hand or in a small bowl. He's always been like this even when we got him, as in not taking mealworms.
Well, the cage is misted once, sometimes twice, a day. And we have a water dropper on his cage, that he drinks from often. Lots of vines, some fake leafy plants, two real plants (not poisonous), he likes to eat those. There's a red heat bulb, 150 watt, if I recall.
I have noticed that he is not as active as he used to be, he barely moves around anymore, and just sleeps all day.
Yesturday, he didn't open his left eye, and when it finally opened today it was a little watery looking. Also, normally when you open his cage, he puffs himself up, and acts all defensive, but I was able to get into his cage, and without him freaking out, he barely even noticed I was close to him.
My digital Camera isn't working right now, so I can't really get any pictures.
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Re: help with jacksons chameleon
Originally Posted by Malaika
Its a UVA/UVB Combo, and its on about 10 Hours a day. It was last replaced, oh, 1 1/2 ago.
If the missing word in that sentense was years then I'm afraid that light isn't really doing all that much good anymore based on the ones I've used in the past - but I am in britain so if someone with knowledge of the brand you are using could chime in it might prove helpfull.
Originally Posted by Malaika
He refuses to eat anything but crickets, doesn't look at mealworms, waxworms, silkworms, wheter by hand or in a small bowl. He's always been like this even when we got him, as in not taking mealworms.
Pity but I suppose you could try hand feeding crickets or small locusts but it won't be easy or fun.
Originally Posted by Malaika
Well, the cage is misted once, sometimes twice, a day. And we have a water dropper on his cage, that he drinks from often. Lots of vines, some fake leafy plants, two real plants (not poisonous), he likes to eat those. There's a red heat bulb, 150 watt, if I recall.
Wierd. I have never heard of them eating plants - I wonder if they do it in the wild. What are the temperatures in the basking spots and cool areas?
Originally Posted by Malaika
I have noticed that he is not as active as he used to be, he barely moves around anymore, and just sleeps all day.
Yesturday, he didn't open his left eye, and when it finally opened today it was a little watery looking. Also, normally when you open his cage, he puffs himself up, and acts all defensive, but I was able to get into his cage, and without him freaking out, he barely even noticed I was close to him.
I'm sorry to say that's really quite a bad sign. I really think you should take him to see a good vet if you can find one near you. The following link might help but if it doesnt be creative and call all the local reptile shops,zoo's etc as one fo our members recently found a good vet through his local zoo.
list of reptile vets by state and country
Originally Posted by Malaika
My digital Camera isn't working right now, so I can't really get any pictures.
No worries - I only recently got one at all.
dr del
Derek
7 adult Royals (2.5), 1.0 COS Pastel, 1.0 Enchi, 1.1 Lesser platty Royal python, 1.1 Black pastel Royal python, 0.1 Blue eyed leucistic ( Super lesser), 0.1 Piebald Royal python, 1.0 Sinaloan milk snake 1.0 crested gecko and 1 bad case of ETS. no wife, no surprise.
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