First time BP threw up

[sean7smith]

Hello,

I have a 3 year old male BP who I thought was big enough/ready to move up from eating mice to a small rat. He was able to put it down but a little over 24 hours later he threw it up in the corner of his tank. Seems to be the rat was too big.

I've done some research online but any advice on the best way to move forward? When to feed next? Things to look out for? Additional care?

I have removed the rat and completely cleaned out his tank.

[Bogertophis]

It was either too big, or he wasn't warm enough (!), or both. What are his home temperatures? Double check them again. What about hides for his privacy?

Stress from handling after meals can also cause this, as can health issues (some serious).

Another possible cause is that the prey was still partially frozen inside- any chance of that? Rats have thicker fur & take longer to thaw- how are you thawing the prey? Maybe your method needs improvement???

Do not feed again for at least 2-3 weeks (preferably 3). It takes time for snakes to replenish their digestive enzymes, & if fed too soon, you'll have another regurgitation. Repeated regurgitations can actually kill a snake from dehydration or from aspiration of material into their lung. Take this seriously.

Also, when you do feed again, feed something much smaller to be on the safe side. Make sure you're not handling this snake after meals. Always feed snakes in their regular home- do NOT move them to a side cage to feed! Regurgitation is only one issue with doing that- bites are another, or refusal to feed at all (from stress- handling).

If everything is done right & this happens again, there may be another issue, a health issue, going on. Let's hope not.

[Bogertophis]

Hey, I see you just joined us here-

[sean7smith]

Home temp is usually around 80-85 ⁰F (heat lamp over hut during the day, heat pad under hut always on). He has a hut that he can completely fit in, however after eating the rat he wasn't able to curl up as much and was partially outside the hut, I have since gotten a second hide that's like a "tunnel" that I've added to the main door of the hut.

We never handle him until 48 hours after feeding. Probably wasn't handled a week or 2 prior to the rat either.

Rat was live, I've tried dead mice when he was younger but with no luck. He has been eating live for his whole life.

Also I don't move him to a secondary location for feeding.

Thank you very much for the feedback!! I've also read to not feed again for another 3 weeks and am planning on going back to the mice he is familiar with eating. Thank you again, he has been great but this is the first time where something has gone wrong.

Thank you for the welcome

[Bogertophis]

You need to keep his enclosure/tank/(whatever) warmer! The cool end should be no lower than 77-78* F and the warmest area no warmer than about 90*. He needs a bit more than 80-85* F. max. About half should be around 88*. And that's "24/7" by the way. I assume you don't use a heat lamp (light?) at night, so what's the temperature in his home at night? That could make a huge difference too- ball pythons are not a species that you can allow to be cooler at night, & they're not the easiest snakes to keep because they require more warmth than many others (such as most colubrids).

For best results, he also needs 2 equally comfortable hides, preferably the same size too. Snakes will often choose "security" (the most snug-feeling or private hide) over the right temperature needed for digestion. So if the layout is wrong, he may choose to be too cool & then lose his lunch. See? Hides don't have to be expensive or fancy, but they need to provide the basic cover your snake needs to feel safe, with one on the cooler side & the other on the warmer side. A "tunnel" means open at both ends, & snakes (esp. BPs) do not find that to feel safe. It makes nice "furniture" but it's not an adequate "hide". Hides should have low ceiling & only one doorway that's not too big- they prefer just enough room to curl up in.

Many use these- they're very sturdy, not expensive & are easy to wash- https://www.reptilebasics.com/medium-hide-box They come in various sizes, you want one just big enough for your snake to curl up in- and put one on the cool side & one on the warm side of the enclosure. That way, the snake can choose the right temperature, rather than just the hide that feels safer.

It's okay if the hides are a little too big- you can also stuff paper or substrate into one end to make it feel smaller, cozier, while he slowly grows into it. But hides are a must to keep a BP healthy.

[sean7smith]

Okay thank you very much!! I'll get a new bulb and/or lamp and do some rearranging with the hides he has now. I'm thinking of moving the "tunnel" to the cool side and either butting it against the tank or closing it off another way.

[Bogertophis]

Okay thank you very much!! I'll get a new bulb and/or lamp and do some rearranging with the hides he has now. I'm thinking of moving the "tunnel" to the cool side and either butting it against the tank or closing it off another way.

That reminds me- is your heat lamp the type that gives off light as well? Many use CHE for heat without light, & that way you can use it for both day & night. (-But just be careful not to grab it, thinking it's "off" when it's actually been "on".) It really sounds to me like your BP threw up because he had a bigger (harder to digest) meal, & then was too cool to do so. When that happens, the partly-digested prey starts spoiling & swells up in their stomach, causing a regurgitation. Nasty stuff, eh?