which species ins best for a 6 foot naturalistic enclosure a ball python or boa bci?

[Bogertophis]

Thank you for the information really appreciate I want a naturalistic enclosure I want just make it look like the wild have branches, tunnels or burrows to hide and explore, live plants and grass, rocks etc and provide a lot of enrichment for them to utilize. I want the enclosure to be made out of PVC I was going to use a mister for humidity that why I want live plants because it helps with humidity I live in NC it rains a lot during the summer get really hot about 70 degrees but it get cold around November and December. I have held snakes before mainly ball pythons but I also held a hognose snakes at the reptile expos I went to.

I understand the attraction but I'd advise you against live plants- it's not realistic for what you want to keep, and it will distract you from your pet, because most snakes will trash most plants-it's that simple. And the lights required to keep a plant alive may stress out your snake. You want a habitat that duplicates the wild in appearance, but that's very difficult even for those with experience. "Bio-active" enclosures are advertised a lot these days- there's a reason for that- it's called "marketing"- some are making money off selling you that stuff. Doesn't mean it works all that well- & it's certainly not easy.

And another thing- when you first get a new snake, no matter where it comes from, it's strongly advisable to keep it in minimal surroundings (on white paper towels for a substrate), with a water bowl & hides- NO decor that is porous- ie. made of wood, etc. where mites can hide or leave eggs. There is nothing sadder than seeing a keeper get a beautiful habitat set up for their snake, then have to dismantle it & throw away most of it because their new snake came with tiny mites they didn't see. Mites can kill a snake- they reproduce exponentially- so when we talk about quarantining all new snakes with minimal furnishings & being watchful- we mean it. For preferably about 2 months- to make sure they don't have parasites. They're spread easily* and they're common these days- it's a real set-back if you have to treat an already-stressed new snake for them, as it impacts their appetite & growth. (*When venders allow potential buyers at shows to handle their snakes, & then they don't buy them, they can also have passed along mites from another vender's animals...keep that in mind. Good sellers minimize allowing people to handle their snakes.)

So "first things first". Whatever snake you ultimately get, it's best to let them settle in (without handling) until they're eating- at least 3 times easily at regular intervals (unless in shed- then it's normal for them to refuse meals). Remember that snakes are also exposed to various pathogens that you cannot see- and since stress (from being in a new home, & from being handled) diminishes their immune system functioning- that's another good reason to hold off handling & interacting with your new snake. Yes, we all know that's "torture" but put the snake's needs first- always. A snake that's too stressed won't eat, & snakes that don't eat (for a while) become weak & are at greater health risks- & ultimately (if they continue to refuse to eat) they won't survive.

In choosing a snake, keep in mind that the warmer it needs to be, the bigger challenge it's going to be if/when your home/room gets very chilly in the winter. Not everyone sets their thermostats the same- also, be prepared for power outages, for example. Many colubrids (such as corn & most rat snakes) are fine with more temperature variations & humidity. In fact, snakes that come from desert regions (Trans Pecos & Bairds rat snakes, & rosy boas, for example) require good air flow (screen topped enclosures) to stay healthy. So you should probably be choosing the kind of snake you want before you buy an enclosure for it. So it's good that you're here, researching & asking questions. It's a big decision- take your time. I have to admit that when the snake-keeping "bug" first bit me- and for a LONG time afterwards- I was smitten with practically every kind I saw, whether or not it was practical or even available where I lived. So we do understand how hard this is...

No such thing as a dumb question- we've all asked them too.

[Bogertophis]

...I was going to use a mister for humidity that why I want live plants because it helps with humidity I live in NC it rains a lot during the summer get really hot about 70 degrees but it get cold around November and December...

A few more thoughts- I'd advise against using a mister, for anything other than perhaps a BRB (Brazilian Rainbow boa), which would be a very challenging first snake anyway, IMO. Misters are disruptive & not the best way to manage humidity. Keep in mind that if you do an enclosure with plants, you'll be frequently caring for them, & your very presence is likely to stress many snakes, especially when they're newly acquired. Snakes are mostly shy creatures.

And 70* is not 'hot'- I hope you realize that a BP (ball python) requires warmth of nearly 90* in part of their enclosure, & even the cool end shouldn't go below 77*. Not even at night. They also like dim lighting- that's not conducive to plants either. Compare that to a colubrid snake- like a corn snake, for example. My corn snakes are most comfortable around 75*, with a little added heat (UTH) in one corner that's in the low to mid-80's. My home t-stat in winter is set to 70*, & in summer, to about 80*- therefore, managing the temperatures of my snakes is that much easier. (I do have an Aussie spotted python that needs more heat, but my other snakes are rather easy to please & to keep healthy, without getting RI's from being too cool. The snake you choose is a long-term commitment, so maintaining the temperatures it needs to stay healthy (& eating!) is essential.

[Gio]

Hi I want to buy a 6 foot enclosure for a female boa or ball python I want make it naturalistic with real plants branches to climb and natural hiding areas for the snake and I wanted to know which snake would be happier in a 6 foot enclosure a ball python or boa constrictor bci I want a female because personal perference the females get bigger and I want a snake that will be active and explore their enclosure climbing branches sleeping in their hides etc and I wanted to know which snake would be happier in an enclosure that size? im new on this forum and have never owned a snake before this will be my first snake.

Without a doubt a boa constrictor will be more entertaining in a larger enclosure than a royal python.

"They" say a royal python that is hidden away is a happy royal. The species is generally terrestrial and sedentary. We have ours in a 4' x 2' x 14" cage. She does climb and pops out now and then. She comes out when she's hungry and that can be after 7 months of hiding. We feed her every time she is ready, and when she's not, she lays low and does her thing.

I have a male, Barranquilla, Colombian boa and also a Brisbane, locality carpet that is female and a male Bredli python.

As far as carpets go, males and females in captivity can end up equally sized. In the wild, the male carpets from species that engage in pre mating combat will usually be larger. Nick Mutton and Justin Julander state that finding in both of their books. In captivity, females usually end up larger by choice of the keeper. Large males are not desired for breeders that have multiple animals.

Boa constrictors are more active, at times than some people think, and they are far more active in my experience than any royal python.

Carpets can be a bit more active than boas, however when my carpets are out, my boa is also out.

Both carpets and boas will use ceiling space and I recommend it for enjoying a display cage.


Here are a few pictures of the enclosures here.


Boa using perches in a 4 x 30" x 20" cage.


Same boa at a young age.



Bredli in a 6 footer.


Boa and Bredli.



Brisbane Coastal female.


4 footer with 2 feet of ceiling space.


The cages are all pictured here. The 6 footer is on the left looking at the photos. I switch out the carpets and boa in the 6' cage.


The boa has the big cage now. He's almost 7 feet long but there Bredli is closing in, and the Brissy is still young so she could wind up like my last coastal RIP. At over 8 feet long.



I read through most of the posts and as always BOGS has good info.

I honestly think a royal is better off in a smaller sized cage. By nature they like secure areas and in y experience don't roam a lot in a nice sized 4 foot cage, but they will use the space and they will climb now and then.

A lot of the activity is dependent on the season and whether or not the snake is in a feeding mode. If a royal is not hungry, often you won't see it. That's a good thing. The snake is well known for refusing food and inactivity.


The 2 most arboreal snakes I've owned are the current Bredli python here, and its evil predecessor, a male SD x Dwarf x mainland retic. He's gone but was a beautiful animal and I sometimes miss him. The Bredli is more than a nice replacement however.

My plants are fake.

The perches are made of some real tree branches and some dowels wrapped in fake vines.

I have fake rock backgrounds and really enjoy the naturalistic looks.

I'd say grab a nice boa or carpet and enjoy the show.

[Bogertophis]

Hi I want to buy a 6 foot enclosure for a female boa or ball python I want make it naturalistic with real plants branches to climb and natural hiding areas for the snake and I wanted to know which snake would be happier in a 6 foot enclosure a ball python or boa constrictor bci I want a female because personal perference the females get bigger and I want a snake that will be active and explore their enclosure climbing branches sleeping in their hides etc and I wanted to know which snake would be happier in an enclosure that size? im new on this forum and have never owned a snake before this will be my first snake.

Back to the original question, herphunter: between the 2 species you started with, a ball python vs. a boa, I personally greatly prefer boas for their personality & easy feeding. I've only had one- a female- & eventually she just got larger (8') than I really wanted to deal with, but she was an unwanted rescue (yearling) that I was talked into taking, so I didn't have a choice of gender or locality. In hindsight, I'd have been happier with a male that stayed smaller, OR one of the dwarf species- but she needed a home & someone that understood how to calm her down- that was me. At first, I thought I'd rehome her after I fixed her bad attitude, but by then, I adored her too much to part with, so I continued to hope she wouldn't grow so large. In case you don't know, snakes grow their whole life- that growth slows down when they get older, but it does continue.

She had changed hands many times before I took her in, & was a feisty biter that required calm experienced hands where she could finally feel safe- once she learned she had nothing to fear with me, she stopped trying to bite & never once bit me. She was sweet & cuddly, actually- but she was not a beginner snake because of her innate temperament (on the feisty side) combined with her bad experiences with other humans. She did the only thing she knew- tried to bite in self-defense until she was convinced that she no longer had to worry. It takes time (experience) learning to read snakes- they're stoic & unlike other pets- I'm just forewarning you. Boas are not usually suggested for beginners with snakes, because you're going to make mistakes. You will.

Anyway, back to your needs: a calm-tempered male boa with genetics that stay smaller may make a good pet for you if you get it as a neonate ("baby") so you can learn & adapt to it while it's still small. If you're going to get tagged (bit), it's much better when they're small. Boa teeth do hurt- and when you're new to snakes, you might not realize how to avoid nips- that's where snakes like corn snakes are great for beginners- when they're small, it's hard to even know you've been bit, as their teeth are too small to draw blood. Bites from even a small boa will hurt- but snakes bite for 2 basic reasons: either in self-defense, & you have to remember that we're big scary giants to them, OR because they're confusing you with food. Being a considerate owner will go a long way. Boas have a more relaxed, less shy, personality than typical BPs- & you do seem to want a heavier-bodied type snake. Boas are aggressive feeders & you'll need to use feeding tongs- trust me- they hit hard, & you never want to confuse a boa into thinking your "warm & wiggling" hand is the offering.

The decision about what kind of snake to get falls on you- we don't really know you, your background or abilities. All we can do is offer you some tips, and pros & cons on various kinds of snakes. And answer your questions as you go.