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  1. #11
    Bogertophis's Avatar
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    Re: BP Heating Trouble

    Quote Originally Posted by Animallover3541 View Post
    This may be an unpopular opinion, but I have found more and more veterinarians are preferring over head heat sources over belly heat sources for ball pythons. I unfortunately do not have a copy of the ARAV ball python care sheet on me, but I will see if I can find anything in it later. It is kind of like how in PVC enclosures, radiant heat panels or CHE/other heat bulbs are used and they work fine. The main difference with those though is the fact that in a glass enclosure, a RHP obviously can't be installed on screen or a plexiglass lid, and it will be almost impossible to keep the temperature up since they are not insulated as well as PVC or ABS enclosures. I'm currently looking at purchasing an ABS enclosure personally and I will be moving my snake into my bedroom since it is warmer.

    I'm still changing my mind constantly about what I want to do. For example, my veterinarian believes there may be some benefit to low level UVB lighting for ball pythons, and I plan on trying to incorporate that into my new set up when I get the chance. If I can find some better sources besides word of mouth later, I will make a second post linking
    The first decision is what kind of enclosure (tank, PVC, home-built cabinet) is being used- that determines the best way to heat or add light, etc. Glass tanks are not hard to insulate- just saying.
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  2. #12
    Registered User Wanik4's Avatar
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    Re: BP Heating Trouble

    Quote Originally Posted by Bogertophis View Post
    The first decision is what kind of enclosure (tank, PVC, home-built cabinet) is being used- that determines the best way to heat or add light, etc. Glass tanks are not hard to insulate- just saying.
    I don't disagree, but there are times when attempts to insulate can lead to a ghetto look or even increase the risk of fire.

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  3. #13
    Bogertophis's Avatar
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    Re: BP Heating Trouble

    Quote Originally Posted by FettuccineEnjoyer View Post
    I recently bought a juvenile BP and am super excited to bring him home. Currently the breeder is holding onto him until I have the heating and humidity figured out in his enclosure. I currently have a problem. Before setting up the enclosure I had decided on side-tank heating. For reference, this is a 40gal glass enclosure and I’m currently using a 30-40gal zilla heatmat. Now thinking everything would go well, I threw away the four little nubs that are meant to go under the tank if you use UTH. Though, lo-and-behold my warm side barely reaches 30C even though the thermostat is set to 50C while also using a heat lamp. The cold side averages about 22C. Both sides fall to around 22C (Warm) and 20C (Cold) each night and I can’t reposition the heat mat without risking a fire. (Yes ik 40 gal is big for a juvenile, I have it very cluttered I assure you.)

    Does anyone have any tips? Is it safe to try and continuously raise the heat mat until it suits my needs? Is there something I can use as an alternative to the little nubbies so I may reposition the heatmat? Should I cave and just buy a stronger lamp or new heatmat?
    Heat mats for snakes belong under the tank- heat rises, so installing one on the side is very inefficient. Be careful about removing it to re-install it- damage can occur that renders it inoperable.
    They must also be temperature-regulated for safety- preferably with a thermostat, or with a rheostat at the very least (& be aware that some types of UTH will just go off if dimmed with a rheostat).
    Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength.
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  4. The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to Bogertophis For This Useful Post:

    FettuccineEnjoyer (02-24-2023),GoingPostal (02-23-2023),Homebody (02-23-2023),Wanik4 (02-23-2023)

  5. #14
    Registered User Wanik4's Avatar
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    Re: BP Heating Trouble

    Quote Originally Posted by Bogertophis View Post
    Heat mats for snakes belong under the tank- heat rises, so installing one on the side is very inefficient. Be careful about removing it to re-install it- damage can occur that renders it inoperable.
    They must also be temperature-regulated for safety- preferably with a thermostat, or with a rheostat at the very least (& be aware that some types of UTH will just go off if dimmed with a rheostat).
    Also, reptile basics has great tape, which may be an option for your setup with a thermostat.

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  6. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Wanik4 For This Useful Post:

    Bogertophis (02-23-2023),FettuccineEnjoyer (02-24-2023)

  7. #15
    BPnet Senior Member GoingPostal's Avatar
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    Re: BP Heating Trouble

    Quote Originally Posted by Animallover3541 View Post
    This may be an unpopular opinion, but I have found more and more veterinarians are preferring over head heat sources over belly heat sources for ball pythons. I unfortunately do not have a copy of the ARAV ball python care sheet on me, but I will see if I can find anything in it later.

    IME this is not so much a matter of which is better but that vets see many more snakes burned by uncontrolled UTH than bulbs, since most of the time a bulb isn't close in direct contact to snakes. I just helped out a newbie with a non eating bp and they were initially horrified at the idea of using a heat mat because they had read many horror stories online and instead had a yellow bulb running day and night that definitely wasn't going to burn their snake, not even close to keep the setup warm enough though. I had to explain the best heating is going to depend on the individual setup, species, and climate around it but that all heat sources need to be controlled and regularly checked for temps.

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  9. #16
    Registered User FettuccineEnjoyer's Avatar
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    Re: BP Heating Trouble

    I’m currently looking for a ceramic heat emitter on the cheaper side and stumbled upon an off brand one being sold online at BestBuy. I was wondering if anyone knows of a standardized socket size, and whether or not a random heat emitter would fit into a ZooMed socket?

  10. #17
    Registered User FettuccineEnjoyer's Avatar
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    Re: BP Heating Trouble

    Also, how should I go about removing the heatmat? I’ve read some suggestions such as a blow dryer to melt the adhesive, running a knife between the heatmat and glass and even just trying to carefully peeling back with your hands. Any more suggestions or even risks I should know of?

  11. #18
    BPnet Veteran Homebody's Avatar
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    Re: BP Heating Trouble

    Quote Originally Posted by FettuccineEnjoyer View Post
    Also, how should I go about removing the heatmat? I’ve read some suggestions such as a blow dryer to melt the adhesive, running a knife between the heatmat and glass and even just trying to carefully peeling back with your hands. Any more suggestions or even risks I should know of?
    I removed my large ZooMed Ultratherm by just peeling it off and it worked just fine afterward. Warming the surface it's attached to should make it easier.
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  13. #19
    Registered User Animallover3541's Avatar
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    Re: BP Heating Trouble

    Quote Originally Posted by FettuccineEnjoyer View Post
    Also, how should I go about removing the heatmat? I’ve read some suggestions such as a blow dryer to melt the adhesive, running a knife between the heatmat and glass and even just trying to carefully peeling back with your hands. Any more suggestions or even risks I should know of?
    You can just peel it. What I do with heat mats that I use for hospital/quarantine is I scrape off all the adhesive and when I need them for something, I use use a small amount of duct tape.
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  15. #20
    BPnet Veteran Homebody's Avatar
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    Re: BP Heating Trouble

    Quote Originally Posted by FettuccineEnjoyer View Post
    I’m currently looking for a ceramic heat emitter on the cheaper side and stumbled upon an off brand one being sold online at BestBuy. I was wondering if anyone knows of a standardized socket size, and whether or not a random heat emitter would fit into a ZooMed socket?
    Which brand CHE are you considering? Maybe someone here will have experience with them.
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