is 36x18 ok?

[Vader1]

It depends on how much more air you're trying to keep warm- don't assume, try it first: test for at least a week without an occupant, & in winter when your place is chilly. That's the only way to know.

Well im not making any changes at the moment, just meant with more heat near the enclosure would raise the ambient.

[Vader1]

Installing a CHE in a plastic enclosure is what I would be concerned about. I know people do it, but I'd find it challenging. When I had my bp in a sterilite tub, I only used a UTH because my ambient temp is high.

His CHE hangs above the enlcosure. The top has soldered holes to allow better heat penetration. His main hot side is heated by flexwatt.

[Vader1]

Also correction, at the substrate level the floor is 34x17 as the tub has a slight flare to it.

[Malum Argenteum]

I had my (only BP) normal male in a V-70 tub (50 qt) for about eight or ten years before moving him into an AP T8 (4' x 2' x 1'). The larger enclosure seems to be less of a 'snake storage unit' than the V-70, and more of a "habitat" just based on how he acts. For reference, I keep most of my snakes in tubs; I'm not anti-tub in any way whatsoever.

I kept a pair of adult blood pythons for a handful of years (eventually, they sort of wore me down...they're a lot of snake to deal with) and for a while I used Xmas tree tub enclosures. I found those hard to deal with and moved the bloods into AP enclosures after maybe a year in the Xmas tubs.

[Animallover3541]

I would like to add that some manufacturers like Boamaster and AP make racks for those big Christmas tree tubs if you wanted to get one.

[Malum Argenteum]

I would like to add that some manufacturers like Boamaster and AP make racks for those big Christmas tree tubs if you wanted to get one.

That's a good thing to mention. I did have mine in a rack, for what it is worth. They were too large to slide out easily (heavier snakes than BPs, admittedly) and harder to clean than stacked enclosures (either put them on the floor and scrub them out, or try to move them somewhere to hose them out -- neither was as good as working in a front-opening AP cage).

[Vader1]

I would like to add that some manufacturers like Boamaster and AP make racks for those big Christmas tree tubs if you wanted to get one.

Yea Ive seen the AP version. I just like being able to pop the top off and have full access to spot clean wipe down the sides when disinfecting. If I had more BP's i would see the use but right now its just my Ball and baby MBK.

[Vader1]

I had my (only BP) normal male in a V-70 tub (50 qt) for about eight or ten years before moving him into an AP T8 (4' x 2' x 1'). The larger enclosure seems to be less of a 'snake storage unit' than the V-70, and more of a "habitat" just based on how he acts. For reference, I keep most of my snakes in tubs; I'm not anti-tub in any way whatsoever.

I kept a pair of adult blood pythons for a handful of years (eventually, they sort of wore me down...they're a lot of snake to deal with) and for a while I used Xmas tree tub enclosures. I found those hard to deal with and moved the bloods into AP enclosures after maybe a year in the Xmas tubs.

See he was in a VE-70 equivalent before I went with a taller 120qt in an effort to be more naturalistic and it seemed he was more active in the short tub lol. But that could just be recall bias. Thank you for your input.

[Malum Argenteum]

See he was in a VE-70 equivalent before I went with a taller 120qt in an effort to be more naturalistic and it seemed he was more active in the short tub lol. But that could just be recall bias. Thank you for your input.

Possibly the "more active" behavior was because he wanted more room and once he got it he felt at ease. Or it could be that he liked the smaller tub better for reasons that we keepers have trouble seeing. I occasionally (not frequently, but a handful of times) have upsized growing snakes only to have them completely stop feeding; returning them to the original (too small, as far as I can see) tub immediately fixed the issue.

I have two rainbow boas like this right now, still jammed in shoeboxes since they won't eat at all in the next tub size up, but never refuse a meal in the shoeboxes. I personally try to give animals what I think is right (based on other keepers' input, natural wild conditions, empirical research, and so on) but if the animal indicates that this isn't what they want I try to defer to the animal's apparent wishes so long as it doesn't involve something obviously opposed to its health and safety.

Back to an earlier topic: having the tub in a rack, or using a PVC display enclosure, simplifies heating tremendously. The AP cage especially -- one radiant heat panel on a Herpstat and you're good to go. The Xmas tub in a rack in a cool room might need some creative heat tape (some belly heat, some side heat) but that's not too challenging. I share the worry about a CHE hanging over a tub, though of course you're the only one with eyes on the setup.

Given the lifespan of BPs, amortizing the cost of the most secure, safe and (in my opinion, anyway) easy to deal with enclosure comes out to a couple dollars a year ($250 APcage + $100 RHP + $200 Herpstat = $550 over 40 years = $13.75 per year), even ignoring the high resale value of this sort of equipment. Just a way to think about it that it seems we sometimes don't, that's all -- not implying that you or anyone else should see things only one way.

[Vader1]

Possibly the "more active" behavior was because he wanted more room and once he got it he felt at ease. Or it could be that he liked the smaller tub better for reasons that we keepers have trouble seeing. I occasionally (not frequently, but a handful of times) have upsized growing snakes only to have them completely stop feeding; returning them to the original (too small, as far as I can see) tub immediately fixed the issue.

I have two rainbow boas like this right now, still jammed in shoeboxes since they won't eat at all in the next tub size up, but never refuse a meal in the shoeboxes. I personally try to give animals what I think is right (based on other keepers' input, natural wild conditions, empirical research, and so on) but if the animal indicates that this isn't what they want I try to defer to the animal's apparent wishes so long as it doesn't involve something obviously opposed to its health and safety.

Back to an earlier topic: having the tub in a rack, or using a PVC display enclosure, simplifies heating tremendously. The AP cage especially -- one radiant heat panel on a Herpstat and you're good to go. The Xmas tub in a rack in a cool room might need some creative heat tape (some belly heat, some side heat) but that's not too challenging. I share the worry about a CHE hanging over a tub, though of course you're the only one with eyes on the setup.

Given the lifespan of BPs, amortizing the cost of the most secure, safe and (in my opinion, anyway) easy to deal with enclosure comes out to a couple dollars a year ($250 APcage + $100 RHP + $200 Herpstat = $550 over 40 years = $13.75 per year), even ignoring the high resale value of this sort of equipment. Just a way to think about it that it seems we sometimes don't, that's all -- not implying that you or anyone else should see things only one way.

Just found out im bring gifted a pvc tank for christmas so i guess i dont have to worry to much. As for the creative heating, yea my house is cold compared to where ive lived in the past so i had to go with the uth che combo. its controlled and humidity seems to stay stable in his tub. And yea hopefully he lives another 20 years so i agree that the cost is really front loaded