First Feeding

[Bogertophis]

...I disagree that you have to offer exactly what the breeder was feeding...

First, while you don't HAVE to feed the same as the breeder fed a snake, it just makes the transition easier. When a snake in a new home is offered "familiar" prey they tend to eat sooner & more successfully, & besides, the OP indicated this was their plan, with the goal of changing to f/t prey when possible. Can they try f/t right off the bat? Sure. Some snakes will take it, & some won't.

This also begs the question though, how many BPs have you raised or kept? I have to ask because I don't see any BPs in your list of snakes that you currently keep. And because they're some of the fussiest snakes around, IMO. I try to advise what is most likely to work well, without jeopardizing the health of a snake (from unwanted fasting) when we have no way of knowing (A) just how much experience the OP has with snakes (they're a new member here) and also (B) just how healthy or well-fed their new snake is. I'm trying to recommend methods here that pose the least risk & the best chance for success (not frustration), since I think it's safe to say that none of us will be making a housecall to Idaho to help the OP with feeding their new pet if it refuses to eat.

[montagma]

Put the Mouse in (Store did not have any small Rats) and it's gone! It was a hopper size mouse. It's an AP enclosure with no holes bigger than enough to barely allow the cord through. Can't tell on the snake as far as any lumps go, but I can't find the mouse. I look again in the AM. Thanks for helping everyone! This page is amazing.

[Bogertophis]

I love it when it works! I was afraid you might have trouble finding the exact size of baby-rat. So if your snake took rats for the breeder, now you know either rodent type is acceptable.

One thing though, you might look inside the hides & all, just to make SURE, since a hopper mouse has eyes open and WILL chew on a snake that refuses to eat them, once they get hungry enough & there's nothing but the snake for them to eat. It has happened...so don't let it happen to yours! One indication that the snake took the live rodent is to listen for that "squeak". But hopper mice are aware enough to hide also.

So if you're not absolutely SURE the snake ate it, please do look. Don't make the mistake of waiting for morning- by then, your snake could be chewed up.

[montagma]

I'll definitely keep looking. I've looked everywhere and can't find it. Best source for frozen rat delivery? There are a ton of options. They are $15 each at my local shop! I'm thinking that's a lot!

[Bogertophis]

I'll definitely keep looking. I've looked everywhere and can't find it. Best source for frozen rat delivery? There are a ton of options. They are $15 each at my local shop! I'm thinking that's a lot!

Ouch, yeah, that's way too much per rat. But with frozen rats, you'll be paying for air shipping on ice, so that's pricey too, unless you're buying at least 6-12 mos. worth (depending on how many snakes you have to feed?)

Some sources that have been recommended on here: (I don't buy online, I raise my own)

https://perfectprey.com/
https://bigcheeserodents.com/
http://www.coldbloodedcafe.com/
https://www.rodentpro.com/categories/frozen-foods/rats
https://www.laynelabs.com/product/frozen-rats/

[Malum Argenteum]

When I feed live pinks/fuzzies/crawlers, the prey always goes in a bowl in the snake's enclosure. Larger live rodents are supervised until they are dead.

[Bogertophis]

When I feed live pinks/fuzzies/crawlers, the prey always goes in a bowl in the snake's enclosure. Larger live rodents are supervised until they are dead.

For snakes that don't just grab from tongs, I do that too- I like using a shallow flat-bottomed (heavy glass or ceramic) bowl- shy young snakes will usually "find their courage" by lingering from the side of the bowl, slightly above the helpless & moving prey. If left overnight, the prey stays in the bowl (instead of the substrate), & the snake is bolder at night anyway. (without us gawking at them) But a hopper mouse (eyes open) sure won't stay in a bowl...lol.

[EL-Ziggy]

I'll definitely keep looking. I've looked everywhere and can't find it. Best source for frozen rat delivery? There are a ton of options. They are $15 each at my local shop! I'm thinking that's a lot!

OP- I’m glad your snake ate for you. It’s always a relief when they eat the first time. $15 for a hopper mouse is insane! You can get a bag of (50) hoppers for $26.50 from Big Cheese. Even with the $30 shipping fee you’ll still save quite a bit of coin. Best wishes with your new BP.

First, while you don't HAVE to feed the same as the breeder fed a snake, it just makes the transition easier. When a snake in a new home is offered "familiar" prey they tend to eat sooner & more successfully, & besides, the OP indicated this was their plan, with the goal of changing to f/t prey when possible. Can they try f/t right off the bat? Sure. Some snakes will take it, & some won't.

This also begs the question though, how many BPs have you raised or kept? I have to ask because I don't see any BPs in your list of snakes that you currently keep. And because they're some of the fussiest snakes around, IMO. I try to advise what is most likely to work well, without jeopardizing the health of a snake (from unwanted fasting) when we have no way of knowing (A) just how much experience the OP has with snakes (they're a new member here) and also (B) just how healthy or well-fed their new snake is. I'm trying to recommend methods here that pose the least risk & the best chance for success (not frustration), since I think it's safe to say that none of us will be making a housecall to Idaho to help the OP with feeding their new pet if it refuses to eat.

Boger- You’re correct, I don’t keep BPs anymore and haven’t in decades. I’ve kept 4 BPs in my life and their finicky feeding habits are probably the biggest reason I no longer keep them. I’m not saying that my method is correct or that any other method is wrong. To each their own and different strokes for different folks. I’m just sharing my opinion based on my experience. My philosophy towards feeding healthy animals is pretty straightforward. They eat or they starve, and none of my animals have ever come close to starving. I don’t believe that feeding snakes has to be a complicated process. The bottom line is that we offer food and they eat it. Sometimes it takes a while for them to acclimate to a new environment, or prey type, but I trust nature’s innate survival mechanism that ensures a healthy animal will eventually eat, so I stay the course until the snakes instincts kick in without jumping through a bunch of different hoops trying to figure out what the snake prefers. My snakes eat what I want them to eat or they don’t eat. As long as they’re healthy I don’t care if they eat or not. I feel the same way when my kid doesn’t want breakfast.

[Bogertophis]

...Boger- You’re correct, I don’t keep BPs anymore and haven’t in decades. I’ve kept 4 BPs in my life and their finicky feeding habits are probably the biggest reason I no longer keep them. I’m not saying that my method is correct or that any other method is wrong. To each their own and different strokes for different folks. I’m just sharing my opinion based on my experience. My philosophy towards feeding healthy animals is pretty straightforward. They eat or they starve, and none of my animals have ever come close to starving. I don’t believe that feeding snakes has to be a complicated process. The bottom line is that we offer food and they eat it. Sometimes it takes a while for them to acclimate to a new environment, or prey type, but I trust nature’s innate survival mechanism that ensures a healthy animal will eventually eat, so I stay the course until the snakes instincts kick in without jumping through a bunch of different hoops trying to figure out what the snake prefers. My snakes eat what I want them to eat or they don’t eat. As long as they’re healthy I don’t care if they eat or not. I feel the same way when my kid doesn’t want breakfast.

I understand where you're coming from, Zig. And I feel much the same way about BPs, truth be told- they're not my favorite snakes either. I've kept about 10 in the past, 4 of which I raised from hatchlings, but they're just not my thing, & there's no BPs currently in my house either. But for a new member here with a new snake, I don't want them struggling with a snake that won't eat- because it's not always harmless for the snake. Snakes have usually been exposed to various pathogens (other sick snakes & their parasites) before they were brought home, & the stress of being newly-rehomed lowers their immune system functioning, putting them at greater risk of illness including RI's or infections. It's much easier (not to mention cheaper) to keep a snake healthy than it is to get them well again- & not everyone has access to a first-rate herp vet either. So for those reasons, I want our newest members to get off to a good start with their pets, & that means getting them to eat to keep their energy up & their immune system functioning.

It's a different thing when your snakes are long-term residents & they feel like fasting, & I'm quite sure your kid is in no danger of starving either, lol. But I disagree with you that snakes "always decide to eat rather than starve"- in fact, when their energy gets too low, they won't feel like eating- much like a hospital patient without an I.V. to get some energy with which to recover fully. Having lots of experience in keeping snakes- as we both do- means we may not always follow all the advice we give to others, because we can cope with whatever happens- but that may not be true of our members here & I'd rather we keep their best interests (& their pets) in mind when giving advice. Also, you said "As long as they’re healthy I don’t care if they eat or not." but there's no way that you or I can just look at a snake (especially online!) & really KNOW that it's healthy, with nothing "going on" health-wise, so it's best to "error on the side of caution".

[tempo36]

I'll definitely keep looking. I've looked everywhere and can't find it. Best source for frozen rat delivery? There are a ton of options. They are $15 each at my local shop! I'm thinking that's a lot!

That's crazy!

I will put in my usual recommendation for Rodent Barn (https://therodentbarn.com) which, since you're in Idaho, is also very close to you in Montana and will arrive quite quickly even with ground shipping. They have had absolutely great quality for me.