Is my (first) ball python in good shape?

[emmaeh]

Hi all! I just got my first ball python as a gift a few days after Christmas. I've had him since last Monday and he ate a small mouse for me on Friday (I know, I'll switch him to rats ASAP). He is 4 months old. A male banana 50% het clown.

I wanted to share some pics from today to make sure he's looking healthy! I'm not sure if he's too thin or if his cloaca is normal?

I'm having some trouble with sustaining proper humidity so I'm going to add a humid hide to his terrarium soon. He's eating every 7 days and had no problem eating and digesting his first meal with me. He seems small so I may need to feed him every 5 days?

I'd really appreciate your responses Forgive me for my ignorance lol

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[DatBoiAJ_]

i think he looks a bit small but- i havnt had a baby bp in a while so im not sure. As for feeding, listen to the other people that post on here bc i usually mess that up but as for the snake...wow beautiful, banana is one of my favorites, youre a lucky guy(or girl)

[Snow Balls]

You can feed him every 5 days if you’d like. I feed all my hatchlings every 5 days until they hit 500g then get switched to every 7. As far has humidity goes, try coving the top of the lid with foil and leaving about a 1/4 of the mesh visible. That should help with your humidity levels


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[DatBoiAJ_]

for humidity, what bedding do you have?

[Bogertophis]

Congratulations on your new snake, he's real pretty. I do think he looks thin, but as long as he's eating, don't push too much too fast. Digestion takes time, & when young snakes grow, they keep getting slightly longer but that's very hard to actually see, so he will likely appear thin for quite a long time.

Even a hatchling BP is usually big enough to eat a mouse hopper. (What size mouse did you feed?) I would NOT recommend trying to switch him to rats yet- he cannot afford to miss meals, & because rats & mice smell (& presumably taste) very different, many snakes refuse the "new" food until eventually persuaded. This is NOT the time to do that- keep feeding him hopper mice every 5-7 days (unless he's in shed, then wait until after he sheds to offer food again).

Also, for best results, we recommend not handling new snakes until they've eaten at least 3 meals in their new home, at normal intervals- this is because eating is so important, & handling can stress many snakes into refusing food. Again, this snake cannot afford to miss meals. Also be sure his home is set up with the proper temperatures, humidity, & hides (at least 2, one cool side & one warm) and just be content to watch him settle in for a while- okay? Adding a humid hide is also a very good idea.

BPs are shy snakes- and coming into a new home is scary & confusing for them- just like us, stress negatively impacts their immune system- meaning that anything they were exposed to recently, they're more likely to get sick or infected from, so the easier you make his transition, the better. It's always easier to keep snakes healthy than it is to get them well again once they get sick.

He's light in color, so any snake mites should be easy to spot- do you know what they look like? Do watch out for them, as they can seriously dehydrate & kill a snake, especially one that's already somewhat thin or dehydrated. Mites require immediate attention, because they multiply exponentially (very fast!). Hopefully, he doesn't have any.

[DatBoiAJ_]

what he said

[DatBoiAJ_]

[emmaeh]

for humidity, what bedding do you have?

Cypress mulch. It's been drying out pretty quick though (It's way too cold in my house to go without a CHE)

[emmaeh]

Congratulations on your new snake, he's real pretty. I do think he looks thin, but as long as he's eating, don't push too much too fast. Digestion takes time, & when young snakes grow, they keep getting slightly longer but that's very hard to actually see, so he will likely appear thin for quite a long time.

Even a hatchling BP is usually big enough to eat a mouse hopper. (What size mouse did you feed?) I would NOT recommend trying to switch him to rats yet- he cannot afford to miss meals, & because rats & mice smell (& presumably taste) very different, many snakes refuse the "new" food until eventually persuaded. This is NOT the time to do that- keep feeding him hopper mice every 5-7 days (unless he's in shed, then wait until after he sheds to offer food again).

Also, for best results, we recommend not handling new snakes until they've eaten at least 3 meals in their new home, at normal intervals- this is because eating is so important, & handling can stress many snakes into refusing food. Again, this snake cannot afford to miss meals. Also be sure his home is set up with the proper temperatures, humidity, & hides (at least 2, one cool side & one warm) and just be content to watch him settle in for a while- okay? Adding a humid hide is also a very good idea.

BPs are shy snakes- and coming into a new home is scary & confusing for them- just like us, stress negatively impacts their immune system- meaning that anything they were exposed to recently, they're more likely to get sick or infected from, so the easier you make his transition, the better. It's always easier to keep snakes healthy than it is to get them well again once they get sick.

He's light in color, so any snake mites should be easy to spot- do you know what they look like? Do watch out for them, as they can seriously dehydrate & kill a snake, especially one that's already somewhat thin or dehydrated. Mites require immediate attention, because they multiply exponentially (very fast!). Hopefully, he doesn't have any.

Ah, thank you! The breeder had him on pinky rats and hopper mice. I've only fed him a hopper mouse so far, I'll continue on with the mice for awhile to make sure he doesn't miss a meal. I'll look out for mites! It may be hard not to get them confused with any freckles so I'll pay extra close attention to that. Thanks again for your help!

[Bogertophis]

Freckles should not be moving. They also won't wipe off, lol. Snake mites are usually black/brown/or reddish (might need magnification to see much color, but they suck blood, that's why they often look red-brown) and they're about the size of the point of a pin. They can get partly under scales, sometimes in the snakes nostrils & heat pits, around eyes or cloaca, or under their chin. Much easier to see on a snake that's light in color like yours.

It's usually a good idea to keep a new snake on white paper towels for at least a month* while you watch for mites- they show up better on white paper towels- & may also end up in the water bowl, or near it. If you use other substrates, the mites will hide & leave eggs everywhere- you want to find them before they gang up on your little snake- they pose a real risk, & can also spread diseases. (*It takes about a month for the mite eggs to hatch out their 'next generation'.)

So that's good that at least your BP has had a taste of rats, but pinky rats are too small for a meal. Some sellers (& especially pet stores are notorious for doing this) underfeed their "baby" snakes so they don't outgrow their small living quarters & so they stay "little & cute" (have more appeal to buyers). Since yours seems very willing to eat (a very good sign, btw) that's apparently why yours is thin- he'll catch up.