ball python underweight and not eating

[Bogertophis]

I agree with everything you say, but just for FYI, but our female BP is 2.5 month old, 20.4" long at 97g; she grew about 1.5" since we got her last month...

The reason I'm guessing the OP's snake may be a yearling is because they got him 2 months ago in this condition- obviously starving & probably "maintenance fed" (ie. minimally fed) for some time. A snake in this condition is clearly not growing- and since it looked normal (in terms of body weight) in the picture they were shown prior to the sale, it's obvious that it didn't get this way "overnight". The big difference, compared to your BP, is that yours is eating & growing. I've no doubt that yours grew well in 2.5 months to 20"+ -that's what food does.

[Gocntry]

Good Info in this thread....

You got a meal in her Great start.......

All I can add is I took in a BP from a pet store that the employees were scared of (at 79 grams), She was under fed, had a mite scare and a regurge when I

first got her. Took time and patience but now she's a monster feeder, as in she'll come out of her enclosure after the rat when it feeding time, and she's eating 55

to 60 gram rats now.

So fingers crossed and good luck! Here's hoping your BP catches on and becomes a Great Snake for you!!

[bcr229]

I would hope these are rat pinkies and not mouse pinkies. If you've ever tried to assist feed a mouse pinky you find out quickly that it turns into squished pinky-goo after a few attempts should the snake spit it out.

I don't like assist feeding pinkies (whether mice or rat, depending on neonate size) because they're basically just squishy bags of water, and trying to force one down a snake's throat makes a gross mess. Instead, when I assist feed I start with something like the hind leg cut off of a f/t mouse or rat, followed by a whole prey feeder of appropriate size unless the snake is so tiny that the hind leg is a good sized meal on its own. Otherwise, the hind leg should be sized so it's a decent mouthful for the snake.


Have the warmed hind leg and whole prey f/t feeder ready to go. Grasp the snake's head with your thumb and forefinger just behind its eyes, but gently around the jaw so that it can still open it's mouth. The snake's neck should be supported by your other fingers.


Take the hind leg and fold it at the hock joint. Insert the folded end of the hind leg into the snake's mouth. This is easier than using a whole feeder because the long leg bone is perfect for prying the snake's mouth open. Push the hind leg back as far as you can.


The hind leg is very hard for the snake to eject since it will unfold and often gets caught behind the snake's teeth when the snake opens its mouth to spit it out. The snake will likely try to run away while attempting to spit out the hind leg. That's fine, just let it run through your hands.


When the snake stops running and starts swallowing the hind leg, quickly sneak the nose of the whole prey feeder into the snake's mouth so it follows the hind leg down the hatch. You may have to support or push on the feeder a bit but the snake should grab and swallow the feeder once the leg moves down the snake's throat a bit.


Don't get discouraged if the snake manages to just eat the hind leg on your first few attempts. A small meal is better than no meal. Also wait 5-7 days between assist feedings with the absolute minimum of handling required for daily care to give the snake time to de-stress, especially if you manage to get the snake to eat a whole-prey feeder.


Once I started breeding unfortunately once a season I'd end up with some neonate or other that need an assist. I watched a lot of Youtube videos for ideas. This one helped me a lot and gave me the idea for using the hind leg to get the snake started. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-HT2npbERKY

[Scelery]

How warm is the prey you're offering? It should be warm but not hot to the touch and they cool down very fast. By a fuzzy and a pinky do you mean a rat or a mouse? You did good by going in from the top and keeping everything covered so he doesn't see you. I would suggest avoiding the pinky and sticking with the fuzzy, the pinky wont give him enough nutrients compared to the bigger fuzzy. You want to put weight on him but not to much weight in a short amount of time. Since you did assist feed him and he continued to eat it after is a good sign. Give him some more time alone. Go ahead and change out his hides when you can, just leave them in the same places as the ones you had previously. Him being less active during the day is also a good sign. I would keep him on that 5 day feeding schedule until he gets some size on him, then switch to weekly feedings

I measure the heat of the prey with a heat gun
I try and keep them in the 90s or mid 80s. If they go below 80 I take them and warm them up with a hair dryer.

I feed him mice
None of my local pets stores sell medium or small rats
Only large rats

I read up yesterday that some snakes prefer rats over mice? So I did order him some hopefully they come in soon

Tonight is his feeding night
I do want him getting his proper nutrients so I will avoid the pinkies and offer him a fuzzy !
Crossing my fingers he'll eat for me

[Scelery]

I would hope these are rat pinkies and not mouse pinkies. If you've ever tried to assist feed a mouse pinky you find out quickly that it turns into squished pinky-goo after a few attempts should the snake spit it out.

I don't like assist feeding pinkies (whether mice or rat, depending on neonate size) because they're basically just squishy bags of water, and trying to force one down a snake's throat makes a gross mess. Instead, when I assist feed I start with something like the hind leg cut off of a f/t mouse or rat, followed by a whole prey feeder of appropriate size unless the snake is so tiny that the hind leg is a good sized meal on its own. Otherwise, the hind leg should be sized so it's a decent mouthful for the snake.


Have the warmed hind leg and whole prey f/t feeder ready to go. Grasp the snake's head with your thumb and forefinger just behind its eyes, but gently around the jaw so that it can still open it's mouth. The snake's neck should be supported by your other fingers.


Take the hind leg and fold it at the hock joint. Insert the folded end of the hind leg into the snake's mouth. This is easier than using a whole feeder because the long leg bone is perfect for prying the snake's mouth open. Push the hind leg back as far as you can.


The hind leg is very hard for the snake to eject since it will unfold and often gets caught behind the snake's teeth when the snake opens its mouth to spit it out. The snake will likely try to run away while attempting to spit out the hind leg. That's fine, just let it run through your hands.


When the snake stops running and starts swallowing the hind leg, quickly sneak the nose of the whole prey feeder into the snake's mouth so it follows the hind leg down the hatch. You may have to support or push on the feeder a bit but the snake should grab and swallow the feeder once the leg moves down the snake's throat a bit.


Don't get discouraged if the snake manages to just eat the hind leg on your first few attempts. A small meal is better than no meal. Also wait 5-7 days between assist feedings with the absolute minimum of handling required for daily care to give the snake time to de-stress, especially if you manage to get the snake to eat a whole-prey feeder.


Once I started breeding unfortunately once a season I'd end up with some neonate or other that need an assist. I watched a lot of Youtube videos for ideas. This one helped me a lot and gave me the idea for using the hind leg to get the snake started. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-HT2npbERKY

I feel stupid. It was a mouse pinky that I fed him. I didn't even think to cut up the larger prey for him.
I cut up crickets for my slings and mantises all the time
I'm not sure why I didn't think about that


I'll definitely check out that video out
Thank you!!

Today is his feeding day, so I'll try the rat leg tonight

[Bleh]

Today is his feeding day, so I'll try the rat leg tonight

The assumption here is you'll try and let him strike and constrict first?

Hopefully that meal you got into him last week kick-started his feeding instinct again and he'll be raring to go now!

[Snow Balls]

I measure the heat of the prey with a heat gun
I try and keep them in the 90s or mid 80s. If they go below 80 I take them and warm them up with a hair dryer.

I would heat it up a little warmer into the high 90s or low 100s. You are also right about some snakes preferring rats over mice. I had one hatchling this year refuse 8 mouse hoppers before finally taking a rat fuzzy


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Bogertophis]

.... It was a mouse pinky that I fed him.

I can remember (many years ago!) I once tried to feed a mouse pinky to a BP- it appeared to get stuck on his teeth! So yes, they're way too small for a hatchling BP.

Not to worry, everyone has more stuff to learn- & that's why we're here to share what works.

[bcr229]

BP neonates can typically take mouse hoppers as their first meal after hatching. If you've been feeding mouse pinkies for two months your snake has been on a starvation diet.

If you have to assist feed a rat hind leg then follow it with a f/t mouse fuzzy at least.