thermostat recommendations

[Jörmungandr]

What are the best thermostats for Royal Pythons?
I purchased a Zoo Med Reptitemp Digital thermostat, but it doesn't seem to have been designed with BP's in mind (or any reptile, for that matter). The problem is that in "heat mode" it turns ON the heat source when the temps get too cold. But in caring for Royal Pythons, don't we want the opposite? Don't we want a thermostat that turns OFF the heat source (UTH) when the temp gets too hot? Which are the best t-stats for caring for Royal Pythons?

[Hugsplox]

What are the best thermostats for Royal Pythons?
I purchased a Zoo Med Reptitemp Digital thermostat, but it doesn't seem to have been designed with BP's in mind (or any reptile, for that matter). The problem is that in "heat mode" it turns ON the heat source when the temps get too cold. But in caring for Royal Pythons, don't we want the opposite? Don't we want a thermostat that turns OFF the heat source (UTH) when the temp gets too hot? Which are the best t-stats for caring for Royal Pythons?

Maybe I’m misunderstanding what you think your issue is. When the temperature gets below what you have it set for it turns on your heating element until it reaches the desired temperature, then shuts the heating element off. That’s the basic function of a thermostat.


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[rlditmars]

You have to think of it just like using your furnace in the winter time. The thermostat monitors the temperature in your house. If you have it set for 71 degrees, when the temperature in your house drops below 71, then the thermostat tells the furnace to fire and bring the temperature up to 71. That's all there is to it. Instead of a furnace, your thermostat operates the heating element or tape.

As far as the best thermostats, I've never used a Zoo Med so I can't comment on them. For the most part, Herpstat by Spyderrobotics and Vivarium Electronics (VE) tend to be the industry favorites. They come in sizes from 1 to 6 probes and have and various features depending on what you want to do and spend. The major bonus to these is if they should fail, they fail in the off position so the element can't overheat.

[Jörmungandr]

OK, it seems to be working now. I still say the Zoo Med' directions were poorly written: lots of talk about the heat source cutting off when it's too hot in the first 2 pages, but only one mention of it turning back on when the desired temp is reached, on page three.

So now my question is: what is the right temp at which to set the tstat? My probe is in between the UTH and the bottom of the enclosure. My understanding is that the hot side should be 80-85 degrees (is this right?), so I programmed the desired heat to 88, to allow for the heat that is lost getting from the UTH to the inside floor of the enclosure. Does this sound right?

[Bogertophis]

OK, it seems to be working now. I still say the Zoo Med' directions were poorly written: lots of talk about the heat source cutting off when it's too hot in the first 2 pages, but only one mention of it turning back on when the desired temp is reached, on page three.

So now my question is: what is the right temp at which to set the tstat? My probe is in between the UTH and the bottom of the enclosure. My understanding is that the hot side should be 80-85 degrees (is this right?), so I programmed the desired heat to 88, to allow for the heat that is lost getting from the UTH to the inside floor of the enclosure. Does this sound right?

Maybe not? It's essential that you check (& double-check) the actual temps you get inside the enclosure- over the UTH- & with the substrate pushed away (as your snake is likely to do). You want that warmest temperature over the UTH to be about 88*- & not over 90* for safety, because snakes (esp. BPs) will sometimes lay there way too long & get burned. Low 80's would be too low for a BP on the warmest side. You want the coolest side about 76*-80*.

You cannot just set a t-stat & assume you're getting that temp. inside where the snake is- it could be hotter or cooler, & also, give it some time to normalize. This is actually best done before a snake moves in, for a minimum of a couple days to preferably a week, but if (?) "that ship has sailed", you'll need to keep checking it with an accurate thermometer or "digital temp. gun" for safety. If the enclosure is not yet occupied, so much the better.

You also can't assume that you should set your t-stat the same as someone else does to get the same interior temperatures for your snake. If only it were that simple, lol. You need to double-check. Your t-stat (even if the identical brand & model) might work a bit differently than someone else's does, & it's a good bet your room temps. are different too, & also how insulated each enclosure is.

Set your t-stat to get the desired heat inside the enclosure, over the UTH with the substrate pushed back- and 86-90* is what you want for a BP.

[Hugsplox]

You also can't assume that you should set your t-stat the same as someone else does to get the same interior temperatures for your snake. If only it were that simple, lol. You need to double-check. Your t-stat (even if the identical brand & model) might work a bit differently than someone else's does, & it's a good bet your room temps. are different too, & also how insulated each enclosure is.

Set your t-stat to get the desired heat inside the enclosure, over the UTH with the substrate pushed back- and 86-90* is what you want for a BP.

That "substrate pushed back" part is something a lot of people miss so make sure you're paying attention to the temperature at the glass, not on top of the substrate. Your snake is going to push substrate out of the way, so if you set the UTH up so the top of your substrate is 86-90, odds are the temp at the glass is way hotter and possibly dangerously hot. I prevent this by just having my warm hide sit directly on top of the UTH with just a tiny layer of substrate so when I shoot my temp gun in there I'm getting glass temps since that's where my snake is sitting.

Typically my new tanks sit for 2 weeks before anything goes in them with the exception of my most recent addition, as I was using equipment that I've had running and trust. Even then that tank sat for a week before I put anything in it. It's much easier, safer, and in my opinion kinder to the animal, to make any corrections before you move something in. You have to remember that whether you're moving a brand new snake in, or just moving a snake into a brand new enclosure, you're going to have to give them a settle in period. If you're going in and moving things around, changing temps, moving probes, playing with settings etc etc, you're going to interfere with that, and possibly cause feeding issues or worse, end up with a burnt snake.