No movement

[BlueOrleans1290]

I got moisture up again about 15 percent more today than it was this morning. Still working on it though. And her temps are just fine, I checked on ground level with the heat gun.

[BlueOrleans1290]

Also, I was looking at her today.. her eyes seem a bit more dull. I'm thinking she might go into shed soon.. which worries me because thats even longer that she won't be eating..

[Bogertophis]

Also, I was looking at her today.. her eyes seem a bit more dull. I'm thinking she might go into shed soon.. which worries me because thats even longer that she won't be eating..

That's not a very reliable way to tell on oncoming shed. You want the room dark, & using a very small flashlight, shine the beam from either side, across the arc of her eyes- if her eyes are clouding up, it will be much more obvious this way. We don't all describe them the same way: "milky", "cloudy", "in blue"...but you get the idea.

[Bogertophis]

Thank you so much! Will do. I have it scheduled to try again this Wednesday. When should I start worrying that she isn't eating? Ther isn't anyone around us that carries live anymore. I've checked everywhere.. the only other substitute would be a small hampster.. which I'm not sure I'm willing to do unless her life depends on it.. honestly not even sure if that would be healthy for her. So probably not. I was going to try two more times, and if she still refuses both, then I'm not sure what to do next. Simply because I can't find live anywhere. Maybe I could order live online but I doubt that would go very well.

Here's the thing about rodents: mice & rats have "babies" (pinkies, fuzzies) that do NOT bite in self-defense as long as their eyes are closed. Once they open their eyes (hoppers), they start to defend themselves, but not very well right away. For about a week, they're still pretty clumsy, but there's always a risk to snakes with rodents when their eyes are open. Pre-killed or f/t is preferred & safer.

You do NOT want to feed live hamsters of any age to your snake, because even the babies with eyes closed will growl & bite back. (I've raised my own rodents, mice, rats & hamsters, for decades, & even did rodents as a small business for a while.) Hamsters WILL hurt an unsuspecting snake. BPs do like hamsters, & also ASF's, but BPs can be picky eaters, & once they try them, they may prefer & INSIST on them from then on, so be careful what you just "try".

Have you inquired at local vet offices if they know anyone breeding & selling rodents? Some of their staff may be into snakes too, or may know of someone- & a quick phone call is easy to ask & find out.

[BlueOrleans1290]

Here's the thing about rodents: mice & rats have "babies" (pinkies, fuzzies) that do NOT bite in self-defense as long as their eyes are closed. Once they open their eyes (hoppers), they start to defend themselves, but not very well right away. For about a week, they're still pretty clumsy, but there's always a risk to snakes with rodents when their eyes are open. Pre-killed or f/t is preferred & safer.

You do NOT want to feed live hamsters of any age to your snake, because even the babies with eyes closed will growl & bite back. (I've raised my own rodents, mice, rats & hamsters, for decades, & even did rodents as a small business for a while.) Hamsters WILL hurt an unsuspecting snake. BPs do like hamsters, & also ASF's, but BPs can be picky eaters, & once they try them, they may prefer & INSIST on them from then on, so be careful what you just "try".

Have you inquired at local vet offices if they know anyone breeding & selling rodents? Some of their staff may be into snakes too, or may know of someone- & a quick phone call is easy to ask & find out.

I'm taking my snake Bindi to the vet for a checkup soon, so I'll ask then.

[mechliam]

Hi. I don't think you have much to worry about based on the information you provided. What is her weight like? Does she seem excessively skinny? As long as her weight is fine I wouldn't worry just yet. Keep offering her a meal once every week or so.

Are you only trying to feed her Frozen Thawed now or have you offered live? Between moving into a new home, switching to F/T and the fact that it is winter, there is a good chance that she has just gone off food for a while.

I currently have 2 Ball Pythons at the moment that haven't eaten in 2-3 months. Many of them will do this during the winter months.

Adults can go off food for quite some time but Juveniles will obviously need to feed sooner. Have you tried contacting the breeder? He may be able to supply you with a live Rat to try?

https://www.reptilerange.com/ball-python-care-sheet/

[BlueOrleans1290]

Hi. I don't think you have much to worry about based on the information you provided. What is her weight like? Does she seem excessively skinny? As long as her weight is fine I wouldn't worry just yet. Keep offering her a meal once every week or so.

Are you only trying to feed her Frozen Thawed now or have you offered live? Between moving into a new home, switching to F/T and the fact that it is winter, there is a good chance that she has just gone off food for a while.

I currently have 2 Ball Pythons at the moment that haven't eaten in 2-3 months. Many of them will do this during the winter months.

Adults can go off food for quite some time but Juveniles will obviously need to feed sooner. Have you tried contacting the breeder? He may be able to supply you with a live Rat to try?

https://www.reptilerange.com/ball-python-care-sheet/

Her weight seems normal, if anything just BARELY under. I don't have a weigher. But she looks fine to me. That's a great Idea! I will contact the breeder soon.

[EL-Ziggy]

Congrats on your new critter. It sounds like your temps are dialed in, and since it's only been a month that you've had her, I don't see any cause for serious concern just yet. If she's 6 months old, and at a healthy weight, she can go quite a while without food. I think you're doing the right thing by leaving her totally alone except for cage maintenance. I'd space out the feeding attempts to every 2-3 weeks until she decides to eat again and they ALL eat eventually. I'm a firm believer that the hunger ALWAYS wins. Unfortunately, BPs can be some of the most stubborn snakes and playing the long game with them can be frustrating. I've had them go 8-12 months without food and they were just fine. It's just a pain for the keeper. Best wishes and I hope she eats for you soon.

[BlueOrleans1290]

Congrats on your new critter. It sounds like your temps are dialed in, and since it's only been a month that you've had her, I don't see any cause for serious concern just yet. If she's 6 months old, and at a healthy weight, she can go quite a while without food. I think you're doing the right thing by leaving her totally alone except for cage maintenance. I'd space out the feeding attempts to every 2-3 weeks until she decides to eat again and they ALL eat eventually. I'm a firm believer that the hunger ALWAYS wins. Unfortunately, BPs can be some of the most stubborn snakes and playing the long game with them can be frustrating. I've had them go 8-12 months without food and they were just fine. It's just a pain for the keeper. Best wishes and I hope she eats for you soon.

Thank you so much! Do I wait to handle her untill she eats? I would like to get her used to handling, especially because we have little kids running around the house [not in my room] but if Its perfectly fine to wait untill she eats. Just wondering

[Bogertophis]

In the long run, I agree with both posts above by El-Ziggy & mechliam...this IS what you "signed on for" when you chose a BP for a pet snake- they do fast at times.

However, your snake is young...is that right? About 7 months or so? So mostly BPs are good feeders when young- the fasting is far more common when the snakes are more mature (at least a year old or more).

Since you're a new keeper, it's also more likely that the issue of non-feeding is due to the stress of moving the snake to a new home, handling (I know, you said you haven't, just saying in general), or because the enclosure is lacking something that needs fixed- like not enough security (BPs NEED to hide, & they need temperature choices in those hides) or temperatures are too low. This is just the "voice of experience here talking"- it's hard enough to help you online, especially since we have no visuals to go by. I will add that most who breed BPs seem to favor keeping them in small enclosures for success.

Also, for best results either with their home set-up or the prey offered, it is CRITICAL that you provide what the snake was raised with & used to before you acquired it. (!) Same kind of rodent, live or f/t, same size, & same size enclosure, etc. It seems like that's where you're going wrong, & as a new keeper, that's not something you can take a chance with. Have you talked to the breeder/source of this snake to be sure you're doing the same things???

If you aren't seeing physical symptoms of illness such as bubbles in the mouth, wheezing/whistling/crackling sounds, open mouth breathing, or any other abnormal excrement, etc. -then I have to say that your vet most likely will NOT be of much help. Make sure that any vet you see with your snake (now or in the future) is experienced & qualified with reptile medicine. Vets typically don't focus on husbandry issues...it takes too long & it's not their area of expertise. They try to fix what's broken by applying their knowledge of medicine...with drugs or surgery. If that's not why you're there, you're probably wasting your money, unless you have found the rare vet whose personal passion happens to be fasting BPs. (yes, that's me, kidding...)