Questions about my daughter's new BP

[rosiegirl]

Hi all,

So happy to find this forum. My 14 year old daughter just got a ball python 2 days ago. She did hours of research about the snakes themselves and what they need so I'm pretty comfortable with her setup.

A few questions, though:

1. We bought the mat heater and thermostat but put it on the side of the glass tank instead of underneath (the instructions seemed to advice against the bottom?). Is that okay? Where do I put the sensor for the thermostat if the mat is on the side? (yes, there is also a ceramic bulb for heat on the top and she has 2 thermometers in their to keep track of the temps on the hot and cool side).

2. Is it okay if the snake hasn't come out for 2 days now? He was fine when he went in and we got him from a reputable place, we just want to make sure that behavior is normal. My daughter is not taking him out of tank for a week and she plans to feed him on Sunday for the first time.

3. Is it okay for the heat lamp on top to always be on?


Thanks everyone! I attached a picture of the tank for reference.


https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SaC...ew?usp=sharing

[walzon1]

BP's need belly heat for digestion. Side mounting is no good, ignore the packaging as it is made for many types of reptiles.

Ambient temps really don't matter that much until they go below 70, so no need for any other heating devices besides the heat mat.

I never ever see my BP out unless I take him out. If I did see him out during the day I would immediately think something was wrong. They don't call them "pet rocks" for nothing.

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[Craiga 01453]

BP's need belly heat for digestion. Side mounting is no good, ignore the packaging as it is made for many types of reptiles.

Ambient temps really don't matter that much until they go below 70, so no need for any other heating devices besides the heat mat.

I never ever see my BP out unless I take him out. If I did see him out during the day I would immediately think something was wrong. They don't call them "pet rocks" for nothing.

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I have to disagree. BPs don't need belly heat for digestion. It helps to aid in digestion however, but is not needed. I don't run belly heat with any of my pythons.

It's important to understand the heat mat isn't designed for ambient temps. They're designed solely to provide a hot spot. Putting it on the side unfortunately is essentially useless.

Also, ambient temps are important, otherwise they wouldn't be discussed as a part of basic husbandry. You also never want to go as low as 70°. 75% should be the absolute minimum, while aiming for 78-80.

Without knowing where you live or the ambient temperature of the room the snake is in its impossible to determine whether you need an additional heat source. IMPORTANT - ALL HEAT SOURCES SHOULD BE REGULATED BY A THERMOSTAT.
It's fine if the heat lamp is on all day, but likely isn't needed in the summer, but that depends on your location and room temps as well.

Yes, BPs spend the vast majority of their time hiding. Not a concern, especially since the snake is still acclimating to his new environment.
That being said, if they're out and about during the day it doesn't mean something is wrong.

Lastly, I STRONGLY advise holding off on handling the snake until it is eating reliably. You'll have 20+ years for handling. Eating is priority right now.
I always suggest new keepers wait until the snake has eaten 3 consecutive meals without refusal.

Right now, focus on getting husbandry dialed in, leave the snake alone to acclimate and make sure he's eating reliably.

Oh....I actually just looked at the pic of the enclosure....
You'll want to clutter it up more. You may even have to downsize the enclosure for a while. BPs crave security and that enclosure offers almost none. You'll want to black out the sides and back of the enclosure as well.

[walzon1]

I have to disagree. BPs don't need belly heat for digestion. It helps to aid in digestion however, but is not needed. I don't run belly heat with any of my pythons.

It's important to understand the heat mat isn't designed for ambient temps. They're designed solely to provide a hot spot. Putting it on the side unfortunately is essentially useless.

Also, ambient temps are important, otherwise they wouldn't be discussed as a part of basic husbandry. You also never want to go as low as 70°. 75% should be the absolute minimum, while aiming for 78-80.

Without knowing where you live or the ambient temperature of the room the snake is in its impossible to determine whether you need an additional heat source. IMPORTANT - ALL HEAT SOURCES SHOULD BE REGULATED BY A THERMOSTAT.
It's fine if the heat lamp is on all day, but likely isn't needed in the summer, but that depends on your location and room temps as well.

Yes, BPs spend the vast majority of their time hiding. Not a concern, especially since the snake is still acclimating to his new environment.
That being said, if they're out and about during the day it doesn't mean something is wrong.

Lastly, I STRONGLY advise holding off on handling the snake until it is eating reliably. You'll have 20+ years for handling. Eating is priority right now.
I always suggest new keepers wait until the snake has eaten 3 consecutive meals without refusal.

Right now, focus on getting husbandry dialed in, leave the snake alone to acclimate and make sure he's eating reliably.

Oh....I actually just looked at the pic of the enclosure....
You'll want to clutter it up more. You may even have to downsize the enclosure for a while. BPs crave security and that enclosure offers almost none. You'll want to black out the sides and back of the enclosure as well.

You can disagree with me all you want but please don't quote my post for technicalities. Thanks

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[Craiga 01453]

You can disagree with me all you want but please don't quote my post for technicalities. Thanks

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Your post is on a public forum. People are going to comment, or in this case disagree.

People come here to learn, and sharing inaccurate info doesn't help anybody.

[walzon1]

Your post is on a public forum. People are going to comment, or in this case disagree.

People come here to learn, and sharing inaccurate info doesn't help anybody.

Like I said it's not your comment it's that there was no need to quote me so I have to read your post it's fine for the OP.

I happen to disagree with your post as well I see no need to argue about it like you are trying to.


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[rosiegirl]

Thanks everyone! We are in New York, right outside of the city for weather/temperature reference.

Craiga,

1. I will buy a new heat mat to mount underneath. Can I leave the paper on and just tape it on with aluminum tape?

2. Right now, the warm side is 90 (55% humidity) and the cooler side is 80 (45% humidity). We have two thermostats but I will buy a heat gun, too. (and we can use it before the kids leave for school in the morning!)

3. The heat lamp is on top of the tank but it is not regulated by a thermostat...do we need to add a thermostat to the lamp or will the heating pad be enough? I'm guessing in our New York winters, we'll need the lamp too?

4. Got it on the snake handling, she will hold off!

5. Will add some more hides as well. Do we need a humidity box, too?

I have to disagree. BPs don't need belly heat for digestion. It helps to aid in digestion however, but is not needed. I don't run belly heat with any of my pythons.

It's important to understand the heat mat isn't designed for ambient temps. They're designed solely to provide a hot spot. Putting it on the side unfortunately is essentially useless.

Also, ambient temps are important, otherwise they wouldn't be discussed as a part of basic husbandry. You also never want to go as low as 70°. 75% should be the absolute minimum, while aiming for 78-80.

Without knowing where you live or the ambient temperature of the room the snake is in its impossible to determine whether you need an additional heat source. IMPORTANT - ALL HEAT SOURCES SHOULD BE REGULATED BY A THERMOSTAT.
It's fine if the heat lamp is on all day, but likely isn't needed in the summer, but that depends on your location and room temps as well.

Yes, BPs spend the vast majority of their time hiding. Not a concern, especially since the snake is still acclimating to his new environment.
That being said, if they're out and about during the day it doesn't mean something is wrong.

Lastly, I STRONGLY advise holding off on handling the snake until it is eating reliably. You'll have 20+ years for handling. Eating is priority right now.
I always suggest new keepers wait until the snake has eaten 3 consecutive meals without refusal.

Right now, focus on getting husbandry dialed in, leave the snake alone to acclimate and make sure he's eating reliably.

Oh....I actually just looked at the pic of the enclosure....
You'll want to clutter it up more. You may even have to downsize the enclosure for a while. BPs crave security and that enclosure offers almost none. You'll want to black out the sides and back of the enclosure as well.

[Craiga 01453]

Thanks everyone! We are in New York, right outside of the city for weather/temperature reference.

Craiga,

1. I will buy a new heat mat to mount underneath. Can I leave the paper on and just tape it on with aluminum tape?

2. Right now, the warm side is 90 (55% humidity) and the cooler side is 80 (45% humidity). We have two thermostats but I will buy a heat gun, too. (and we can use it before the kids leave for school in the morning!)

3. The heat lamp is on top of the tank but it is not regulated by a thermostat...do we need to add a thermostat to the lamp or will the heating pad be enough? I'm guessing in our New York winters, we'll need the lamp too?

4. Got it on the snake handling, she will hold off!

5. Will add some more hides as well. Do we need a humidity box, too?

Happy to help!

1. You might be able to remove the existing he's mat if you're careful. The have thin coils in them that create the heat which are fragile though when bent.

Otherwise, yeah a new one will be needed. I can't say with 100% confidence you can leave the paper on, but believe you can. I don't want to steer you wrong though, so please double check.

2/3. Your temps are spot on. But yes, you'll need a tstat for the CHE. You can use a rheostat (dimmer switch) but it's not accurate like a tstat. You need to adjust as room temps fluctuate. Whereas a tstat does the work for you.
A temp gun is a fantastic tool every keeper should have. Remember to temp the actual glass surface, not the substrate because your snake will burrow and push substrate around. The kids will have fun temping things too!

4. I know it's tempting to hang out with a new pet, but unfortunately snakes are a bit different that way. During your research I'm sure you learned BPs can be a bit picky about eating, which can be true. The two major reasons a BP will refuse food are improper husbandry and stress. You're already nipping stress in the bud by cluttering the enclosure, but handling is obviously stressful for them. Since new keepers can't easily identify stress or troubleshoot it's best to avoid stress altogether. It'll be worth the wait.

5. I personally only use a humidity box during shed, and not with all of my snakes. But it certainly can't hurt to offer one all the time. Plenty of keepers do.


Good luck! Please keep us posted. Feel free to ask any questions you have, we're happy to help.

[Zincubus]

Happy to help!

1. You might be able to remove the existing he's mat if you're careful. The have thin coils in them that create the heat which are fragile though when bent.

Otherwise, yeah a new one will be needed. I can't say with 100% confidence you can leave the paper on, but believe you can. I don't want to steer you wrong though, so please double check.

2/3. Your temps are spot on. But yes, you'll need a tstat for the CHE. You can use a rheostat (dimmer switch) but it's not accurate like a tstat. You need to adjust as room temps fluctuate. Whereas a tstat does the work for you.
A temp gun is a fantastic tool every keeper should have. Remember to temp the actual glass surface, not the substrate because your snake will burrow and push substrate around. The kids will have fun temping things too!

4. I know it's tempting to hang out with a new pet, but unfortunately snakes are a bit different that way. During your research I'm sure you learned BPs can be a bit picky about eating, which can be true. The two major reasons a BP will refuse food are improper husbandry and stress. You're already nipping stress in the bud by cluttering the enclosure, but handling is obviously stressful for them. Since new keepers can't easily identify stress or troubleshoot it's best to avoid stress altogether. It'll be worth the wait.

5. I personally only use a humidity box during shed, and not with all of my snakes. But it certainly can't hurt to offer one all the time. Plenty of keepers do.


Good luck! Please keep us posted. Feel free to ask any questions you have, we're happy to help.

All of the above ^

Nothing to add to that really apart from suggesting that you add an awful lot more clutter... branches , fake foliage from dollar stores , one more ideally identical hide at the cooler end - even a third hide on the middle somewhere.


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[rosiegirl]

Happy to help!

1. You might be able to remove the existing he's mat if you're careful. The have thin coils in them that create the heat which are fragile though when bent.

Otherwise, yeah a new one will be needed. I can't say with 100% confidence you can leave the paper on, but believe you can. I don't want to steer you wrong though, so please double check.

2/3. Your temps are spot on. But yes, you'll need a tstat for the CHE. You can use a rheostat (dimmer switch) but it's not accurate like a tstat. You need to adjust as room temps fluctuate. Whereas a tstat does the work for you.
A temp gun is a fantastic tool every keeper should have. Remember to temp the actual glass surface, not the substrate because your snake will burrow and push substrate around. The kids will have fun temping things too!

4. I know it's tempting to hang out with a new pet, but unfortunately snakes are a bit different that way. During your research I'm sure you learned BPs can be a bit picky about eating, which can be true. The two major reasons a BP will refuse food are improper husbandry and stress. You're already nipping stress in the bud by cluttering the enclosure, but handling is obviously stressful for them. Since new keepers can't easily identify stress or troubleshoot it's best to avoid stress altogether. It'll be worth the wait.

5. I personally only use a humidity box during shed, and not with all of my snakes. But it certainly can't hurt to offer one all the time. Plenty of keepers do.


Good luck! Please keep us posted. Feel free to ask any questions you have, we're happy to help.

Thanks again! We will buy a new heat mat and attach it to the bottom and add clutter. He came out to explore last night about 8pm and seemed very happy!

The heat lamp we have has a dimmer on it, but I think we'll get one without and add a thermostat. It definitely gets cold in our house in the winter!

Only question my daughter still has is about the humidity levels. Right now it is 45% on the hot side and 55% on the cooler side.