Her heat lamp melted— Help please!!

[Hayvencat]

I was using a zoomed halogen mini dome over my ball python tub and it was working perfectly... until it didn’t. Last night it started smoking and literally the bulb was melting (very glad & lucky I was at home when this happened) and I’m confused why it happened to begin with because it was a 25 watt and I only keep it on during the day (the bulb was also intended for the dome) But now, I’m very worried my ball python tub is too cool for ambience at only 73-75. Do you guys have any recommendations? I’ve heard CHEs are great and can run during day and night but I’m spooked about this happening again. Any brands you guys trust? Thank you in advance!

[Lord Sorril]

I don't trust any heat source unless it is regulated by a thermostat.

My frog room is a little cool in the winter. For my Smooth Toads I'm using 2 ZooMed Brooder Ceramic Lamps with 2 ZooMed 150W CHE's hooked up to an old ReptiTemp 500R on/off thermostat. Temp is not exact, but, works great for a 40 gallon breeder.

[Bogertophis]

I was using a zoomed halogen mini dome over my ball python tub and it was working perfectly... until it didn’t. Last night it started smoking and literally the bulb was melting (very glad & lucky I was at home when this happened) and I’m confused why it happened to begin with because it was a 25 watt and I only keep it on during the day (the bulb was also intended for the dome) But now, I’m very worried my ball python tub is too cool for ambience at only 73-75. Do you guys have any recommendations? I’ve heard CHEs are great and can run during day and night but I’m spooked about this happening again. Any brands you guys trust? Thank you in advance!

Ambient temps at 73-75* IS too chilly for a BP...you want nothing less than around 80* at the cool side. Wow, I'm glad you were home, that is scary! I hope you let ZooMed know about this, but even if they replace it, you DO need to be controlling whatever you use for heat. So this light was the only heat source? I'll let others chime in about using CHE, as I only use UTH, plus over-head lights part time (black or red incandescent bulbs give off heat but not too much light*) & some of my snakes like to bask under them in winter. (*there is a debate about whether this small amount of light disturbs snakes in any way...I've kept countless snakes healthy with good longevity for over 3 decades & see no issue there, but you'll find some who will pick that fight with you, lol, so I'm just saying...)

In any event, anything that gives off heat needs to be controlled for safely. FYI, I no longer keep BPs & don't need such high temperatures as you do for a BP, so you are safer & better off using a thermostat. However -especially in a pinch while ordering an upgrade- you can just use a lamp dimmer (aka 'rheostat') sold in any hardware store; they're not expensive at all...get the kind already installed on an extension cord with a control dial (or slider), then just plug your lamp into it. (never try to dim a fluorescent light) Most dimmers are compatible with halogen bulbs but do read the fine print before buying or using- that's IF you try another halogen. Not sure I would...I've never had that happen with the old-fashioned incandescent (black or red) bulbs.

Now you asked about using CHE...as far as I've heard, their lifespan can be greatly shortened if they are regulated with the wrong kind of thermostat or dimmed...something to check into for sure.

Another thing: any time you use a bulb or CHE for heat in a metal dome (that helps contain the heat), make SURE that where the bulb screws in it's made
of ceramic, NOT PLASTIC. Normally light fixtures are clearly marked with the highest wattage they recommend because the plastic ones DO melt if it's too
much wattage...the ceramic is much safer & made for higher temps. Even just a 25 watt bulb can build up a LOT of heat in a confined space.