Jungle Carpet enclosure orientation

[dakski]

i thought the same thing about the temp gradient. also, arent bredlis even bigger?

truthfully i think this stuff is coming from people who dont actually own carpets/arboreal snakes, because ive heard they spend a lot of their time in the air anyways plus im still following the length + depth = snake length rule


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There are some good resources online - mainly breeders, and some really good books (kind of expensive if I recall and older) that you can get from Amazon, etc. I think the good one I have is from Australia. I can check.

Keep in mind, although they love to climb, Carpet's are semi-arboreal, although they lean more towards arboreal than say a BI, which is considered semi-arboreal as well. It also depends on the type of carpet. Jungles, I don't know about specifically, but when you say "arboreal snakes," I think ETB's and GTP's, not Carpets. The former spend almost all their time in trees and perches, where as carpets use their floor space and tend to go back and forth.

Also, for what's worth, I like Carpet's fine, but I believe, and correct the if I am wrong, on another post you were looking at a BI possibly. BI's are my favorite snakes to hold and they do like to cruise for food. My 3 have their own patterns. However, they are active enough when held, not like a BP, for example, but very calm and chill.

I love Yafe, and he's mellowing with age, but is pretty active when being held. Not an issue, but I would recommend holding an adult BI and an adult carpet. See what you want. Do more research.

[baldegale]

There are some good resources online - mainly breeders, and some really good books (kind of expensive if I recall and older) that you can get from Amazon, etc. I think the good one I have is from Australia. I can check.

Keep in mind, although they love to climb, Carpet's are semi-arboreal, although they lean more towards arboreal than say a BI, which is considered semi-arboreal as well. It also depends on the type of carpet. Jungles, I don't know about specifically, but when you say "arboreal snakes," I think ETB's and GTP's, not Carpets. The former spend almost all their time in trees and perches, where as carpets use their floor space and tend to go back and forth.

Also, for what's worth, I like Carpet's fine, but I believe, and correct the if I am wrong, on another post you were looking at a BI possibly. BI's are my favorite snakes to hold and they do like to cruise for food. My 3 have their own patterns. However, they are active enough when held, not like a BP, for example, but very calm and chill.

I love Yafe, and he's mellowing with age, but is pretty active when being held. Not an issue, but I would recommend holding an adult BI and an adult carpet. See what you want. Do more research.

im about 3-5 months out from purchasing so that i will. also as far as ground cover ill have hides along with ideally live plants but potentially fake aswell. im doing more research on activity and such. BIs are still a strong contender, primarily hog island, crawl cay, or caulker cay.


getting my hands on an adult carpet though, thats the hard part


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[Craiga 01453]

As usual, dakski Dave gave great advice and insight. He's a fantastic resource. Thanks Dave!

...and to answer your question, Bredli females can get up to 8'+. But fed a more conservative diet Fernie will probably top out closer to 7'. They are typically a bit more stocky than carpets though, especially the females.

To follow up on a point dakski made, the 2 feet of depth allowing for a second perch allows you to have the perches at different heights and distances from the heat sources too. So not only will they have a gradient on the enclosure floor, but also plenty of options to thermoregulate when perched.

[baldegale]

As usual, dakski Dave gave great advice and insight. He's a fantastic resource. Thanks Dave!

...and to answer your question, Bredli females can get up to 8'+. But fed a more conservative diet Fernie will probably top out closer to 7'. They are typically a bit more stocky than carpets though, especially the females.

To follow up on a point dakski made, the 2 feet of depth allowing for a second perch allows you to have the perches at different heights and distances from the heat sources too. So not only will they have a gradient on the enclosure floor, but also plenty of options to thermoregulate when perched.

thats how i intended as far as the perches go, all about gradient. i planned on having at least 4 different ones or a couple with a wood centerpiece if i can find the right one that would work for what i wanna do, along with the ropes that give a loooot of freedom when it comes to making climbing stuff.


also, does anyone have any experience with deep heat projectors? not sure if it would apply here, would have it set up on the outside and then an LED on the inside


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[dakski]

this is what im talking about, thank you for the info!!! i plan on doing naturalistic so plants, wood, cork tubes, etc etc. might also make some ropes that go across throughout random spots


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My philosophy on reptile enclosures, for what's it's worth, is Keep It Simple Stupid (KISS). I use paper substrate, minimalistic plastic hides, and PVC perches for my carpet python. I have 13 tanks and less is more. I also had a kidney transplant and I am immune suppressed, so cleanliness is not only a major consideration for my animals, but for me as well.

I am not telling anyone how to setup their tanks. However, more items, substrate, etc. means more cleaning, maintenance, etc. Being employed and having 13 reptiles, 4 dogs, and happily married (and wanting to stay that way) time is a commodity I do not have a lot of.

My point is if you are planning on adding to your collection down the road, simple is your friend.

If you want a show piece, which a Carpet Python enclosure can definitely be (they make great display snakes), go for it. Just keep in mind opportunity cost, or what you might be giving up down the road to make an awesome enclosure.

My two Rhacodactylus (Chewie and Leachie) have the smallest tanks and they take the most work. Real wood to climb and hide in that has to be cleaned and swapped and replaced eventually. It's expensive and dirty, etc. I use paper substrate for them and have a misting system, but still, lots of work (they are also messy waste producers, but that's another story).

im about 3-5 months out from purchasing so that i will. also as far as ground cover ill have hides along with ideally live plants but potentially fake aswell. im doing more research on activity and such. BIs are still a strong contender, primarily hog island, crawl cay, or caulker cay.


getting my hands on an adult carpet though, thats the hard part


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Yeah, not super easy to find adult carpets. Try expos and reptile specific stores. Probably worth a drive to see different animals anyway, if possible.

Cool on doing your research first!

Quite a few Boa guys on here as well who can be of help. I have a dwarf Venezuelan BCC/Red Tail, Feliz, and he's awesome. I also have two BI morphs (female Ghost, Behira, and male VPI T+ Sunglow Jungle Motley, Jeff).

[dakski]

As usual, dakski Dave gave great advice and insight. He's a fantastic resource. Thanks Dave!

...and to answer your question, Bredli females can get up to 8'+. But fed a more conservative diet Fernie will probably top out closer to 7'. They are typically a bit more stocky than carpets though, especially the females.

To follow up on a point dakski made, the 2 feet of depth allowing for a second perch allows you to have the perches at different heights and distances from the heat sources too. So not only will they have a gradient on the enclosure floor, but also plenty of options to thermoregulate when perched.

Thanks Craig!

Yeah, excellent point on the distance from heat source(s). I forget to mention that benefit and I should not have assumed it was implied. Good catch. Yafe, as I am sure any carpet would, utilizes the perch spot close to the heat panel when digesting and spends the rest of the time on cooler spots. Sometimes, he drapes himself between the two perches too.

Again, CP's make great display snakes.

[baldegale]

My philosophy on reptile enclosures, for what's it's worth, is Keep It Simple Stupid (KISS). I use paper substrate, minimalistic plastic hides, and PVC perches for my carpet python. I have 13 tanks and less is more. I also had a kidney transplant and I am immune suppressed, so cleanliness is not only a major consideration for my animals, but for me as well.

I am telling anyone how to setup their tanks. However, more items, substrate, etc. means more cleaning, maintenance, etc. Being employed and having 13 reptiles, 4 dogs, and happily married (and wanting to stay that way) time is a commodity I do not have a lot of.

My point is if you are planning on adding to your collection down the road, simple is your friend.

If you want a show piece, which a Carpet Python enclosure can definitely be (they make great display snakes), go for it. Just keep in mind opportunity cost, or what you might be giving up down the road to make an awesome enclosure.

My two Rhacodactylus (Chewie and Leachie) have the smallest tanks and they take the most work. Real wood to climb and hide in that has to be cleaned and swapped and replaced eventually. It's expensive and dirty, etc. I use paper substrate for them and have a misting system, but still, lots of work (they are also messy waste producers, but that's another story).



Yeah, not super easy to find adult carpets. Try expos and reptile specific stores. Probably worth a drive to see different animals anyway, if possible.

Cool on doing your research first!

Quite a few Boa guys on here as well who can be of help. I have a dwarf Venezuelan BCC/Red Tail, Feliz, and he's awesome. I also have two BI morphs (female Ghost, Behira, and male VPI T+ Sunglow Jungle Motley, Jeff).

going bioactive has been a consideration aswell as i already have 6 colonies of isopods going and my western hognose is bio aswell. the beautiful thing about PVC and rope is take some silicone 1 (animal safe) smear it all over and then sprinkle some sand or coco coir or just substrate in general all over it and it gives it a much more natural look. im thinking of making this a display animal as ive always wanted one to go all out for and the way the enclosure is set up i could definitely do it for this one. i have a relatively small “collection” so maintenance doesnt bother me, i just have two tortoises and the bio western hognose so nothing much i have to worry about otherwise!


also i know with rhacodactylus, they’re essentially the birds of the reptile world as far as messing up glass.

might try and hit up orlando repticon if i have the time, might be able to see one there hopefully.

the other hard part is finding an adult boa that isnt grossly overfed unfortunately


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[dakski]

going bioactive has been a consideration aswell as i already have 6 colonies of isopods going and my western hognose is bio aswell. the beautiful thing about PVC and rope is take some silicone 1 (animal safe) smear it all over and then sprinkle some sand or coco coir or just substrate in general all over it and it gives it a much more natural look. im thinking of making this a display animal as ive always wanted one to go all out for and the way the enclosure is set up i could definitely do it for this one. i have a relatively small “collection” so maintenance doesnt bother me, i just have two tortoises and the bio western hognose so nothing much i have to worry about otherwise!


also i know with rhacodactylus, they’re essentially the birds of the reptile world as far as messing up glass.

might try and hit up orlando repticon if i have the time, might be able to see one there hopefully.

the other hard part is finding an adult boa that isnt grossly overfed unfortunately


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LOL - Yes - Birds of the reptile world!

Repticon sounds awesome.

Amen brother on the overfed boas. Less is more with them. That means for the keeper, as well as the breeder. Stay away from breeders feeing XL rats or large rats to 2-3 year old boas. Not good.

XL and XXL rats in general are too fatty anyway for a boa. I never plan to feed more than mediums to my males and large to Behira, my female Ghost. I would rather feed more frequently and smaller meals and I do not need a monster boa either. Not good for the boa and I have nothing to prove.

[Gio]

It appears you are being pointed in the right direction.

There are exceptions to the size rule, but for the most part you won't find much difference from species to species. Similar to humans, there is a "Joe Average" size.

The best resource I have seen for carpet pythons is THE COMPLETE CARPET PYTHON by Nick Mutton and Justin Julander.

It is a very well written book and it covers about everything you need to know. Both authors have studied the carpet species in their natural environments.

I bought my cages from Ed Lilley of Constrictors NW. Nick Mutton uses Ed's cages however Ed no longer makes cages.

4 x 2 x 2 fits my coastal/mix very well. She's notch or so above 7 feet. You can see her in the perches in the upper right.

As stated, do not sacrifice ground space for arboreal space. Semi arboreal snakes still use the floor. There is a big difference between arboreal and semi arboreal, BIG difference.

These are all 4 feet wide. The top is a royal python cage. She gets 14" of ceiling space. The cage is 4' wide and 2' deep.

The middle cage is the carpet cage. 4 feet wide by 2' by 2'.

I have plenty of space for her to climb and perch. She does use a floor hide occasionally.

The bottom is a boa constrictor cage.
4 feet wide 30 inches deep and 20 inches tall.

I use heat panels in all of the cages.

If you are going 5 feet wide, you'll have a really nice cage. As long as you have about 2 feet of ceiling and depth you'll be in great shape.




The carpet python is a wonderful display snake. If you want to step up your viewing experience, a little added decor can really make your cage as beautiful as a nice tropical fish tank.



Best of luck with the caging and the carpet.

[baldegale]

It appears you are being pointed in the right direction.

There are exceptions to the size rule, but for the most part you won't find much difference from species to species. Similar to humans, there is a "Joe Average" size.

The best resource I have seen for carpet pythons is THE COMPLETE CARPET PYTHON by Nick Mutton and Justin Julander.

It is a very well written book and it covers about everything you need to know. Both authors have studied the carpet species in their natural environments.

I bought my cages from Ed Lilley of Constrictors NW. Nick Mutton uses Ed's cages however Ed no longer makes cages.

4 x 2 x 2 fits my coastal/mix very well. She's notch or so above 7 feet. You can see her in the perches in the upper right.

As stated, do not sacrifice ground space for arboreal space. Semi arboreal snakes still use the floor.

These are all 4 feet wide. The top is a royal python cage. She gets 14" of ceiling space. The cage is 4' wide and 2' deep.

The middle cage is the carpet cage. 4 feet wide by 2' by 2'.

I have plenty of space for her to climb and perch. She does use a floor hide occasionally.

The bottom is a boa constrictor cage.
4 feet wide 30 inches deep and 20 inches tall.

I use heat panels in all of the cages.

If you are going 5 feet wide, you'll have a really nice cage. As long as you have about 2 feet of ceiling and depth you'll be in great shape.




The carpet python is a wonderful display snake. If you want to step up your viewing experience, a little added decor can really make your cage as beautiful as a nice tropical fish tank.



Best of luck with the caging and the carpet.

i think its settled that im getting a carpet. as far as display, im planning on doing an expanding foam background and try to scape properly for the first time.. im excited for this.


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