Regurgitation help?

[ShadowEpona]

Witnessed my ball python with her jaw wide open and "slithering" in place, acting weirdly then she slithered off into her cool hide when she was done. Found a small oval of fur near where she had been. I went though it and it was only fur nothing else. Wondering what's going on, her last meal was a small mouse and a fuzzy mouse on Thursday night and right now it's Sunday night. She's quite small and should b taking fuzzy rats. Cool side is usually around 75-80~ day at night it doesn't go below 72 as I have a room heater set to make sure it doesn't go below. On the warm side it's usually around 89~ but today my door somehow got closed and it got too hot it was only like that for a max of a 3 hours as I had left for a few hours. It was around 95-100~ depending on accuracy of thermometer. I turned off the lights and made sure the door was kept open and turned back on the lights when it was at a more stable acceptable temp. Super worried about her and tomorrow is a holiday. Any advice? Vet is long closed. Super worried about her. I have seen another one before in her tank but based on the shape I had thought it was just really furry poo as well as someone else I had asked and now I'm worried that it wasn't.
I've only had her for just under a couple weeks. I've been waiting 2 days before handling after food

[bcr229]

Wait three weeks before feeding again and in the meantime purchase some NutriBAC reptile probiotic. You can find it on Amazon. It's a powder, just dust a tiny pinch of it on a damp f/t feeder to help replenish your snake's gut flora after a regurge or course of antibiotic treatment.

When you do offer food again it should be a tiny feeder, something like a damp f/t mouse fuzzy dusted with NutriBAC.

Then wait two weeks before feeding again, and offer another damp f/t mouse fuzzy dusted with NutriBAC.

If all goes well you can slowly start increasing feeder size and decreasing the time between feedings. I would not feed more often than every seven days though.

Finally, if your snake regurges again take it to a vet that specializes in exotics and have it checked for parasites.

[Gocntry]

Wait three weeks before feeding again and in the meantime purchase some NutriBAC reptile probiotic. You can find it on Amazon. It's a powder, just dust a tiny pinch of it on a damp f/t feeder to help replenish your snake's gut flora after a regurge or course of antibiotic treatment.

When you do offer food again it should be a tiny feeder, something like a damp f/t mouse fuzzy dusted with NutriBAC.

Then wait two weeks before feeding again, and offer another damp f/t mouse fuzzy dusted with NutriBAC.

If all goes well you can slowly start increasing feeder size and decreasing the time between feedings. I would not feed more often than every seven days though.

Finally, if your snake regurges again take it to a vet that specializes in exotics and have it checked for parasites.

Follow the above Advice...... Been there already, This got my little girl back on track!!

Here's my thread if you care to read it https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...hlight=regurge

[Craiga 01453]

Wait three weeks before feeding again and in the meantime purchase some NutriBAC reptile probiotic. You can find it on Amazon. It's a powder, just dust a tiny pinch of it on a damp f/t feeder to help replenish your snake's gut flora after a regurge or course of antibiotic treatment.

When you do offer food again it should be a tiny feeder, something like a damp f/t mouse fuzzy dusted with NutriBAC.

Then wait two weeks before feeding again, and offer another damp f/t mouse fuzzy dusted with NutriBAC.

If all goes well you can slowly start increasing feeder size and decreasing the time between feedings. I would not feed more often than every seven days though.

Finally, if your snake regurges again take it to a vet that specializes in exotics and have it checked for parasites.

I agree with the above 100%

In addition it's also important to figure out WHY the animal regurged.
Aside from illness, the other likely reasons a snake might regurge are: temps are off, stress or too large a meal.

So let's examine those.

Your temps are kinda all over the place, which makes me wonder if your heat sources are regulated by a thermostat???
You want to keep those temps above 75, 78-80 is your target cool side temp. You should be aiming for 87-89 for a hot spot.
Getting those temps regulated and stable should be priority number one.

Now onto stress/handling...
You said you're not handling for 2 days after feeding, which is good. However, it's important to let your new snake settle in. I always advise no handling until the animal has eaten 3 consecutive meals without refusal.

I don't think handling is to blame for this regurge, but it's important to hold off on handling for a while now. NO HANDLING until the snake has eaten 3 consecutive meals without refusal and has held them all down. So NO HANDLING for AT LEAST 6 weeks.

Finally, prey size....
How much does the snake weigh? You said you fed a small mouse and a fuzzy. What did they weigh? Why add the fuzzy? Adding a second prey item may have made digesting more difficult? But without knowing the weight of the snake or the prey I can't say for sure.

The more we know the more we can help you and your snake.

[Bogertophis]

...I've only had her for just under a couple weeks. I've been waiting 2 days before handling after food

OK, while I agree with the above posts' advice for regurges, this ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ really jumped out at me.

You really shouldn't be handling a snake that you've only had for a couple of weeks...not at ALL, for best results, & especially now after regurges.

Standard recommendation for new snakes of any age, but fairly critical for young snakes as they don't have any "reserves", they're just hatched or born:
No handling until the snake has fed easily for at least THREE consecutive feedings at normal intervals, which if you have a hatchling, would be roughly a week between
each meal, plus a couple days to allow good digestion. And it's also best to NOT feed a snake you just got, until they've had a chance to "acclimate" ie. settle in, relax.

So if you were playing it safe, you'd not be handling a new BP hatchling (or young snake) for at least the first month, until it has established an eating pattern. Because
eating is job #1. Without food, a snake will die...though not right away. "Taming" can wait, snakes are living creatures that are instinctively frightened of humans, & fear
causes stress, which is no good for their appetite. So if you want this snake to survive, please, no handling for a while, until she's on track. You wouldn't be here if you
didn't want the best for her...

[ShadowEpona]

I believe she's 139 grams.
I was under the impression that u waited 1 week then u could handle, now I know I should wait a few weeks providing the meals are consecutive. Unfortunately no thermostat, I'm currently looking into it, not sure which brand is good / right for a decent price. I heard to not trust jumpstart. I don't know how old she is as the store I picked her up from gave me zero info (I was surprised I didn't get any papers attached to the cardboard carrier they put her in). I don't know how much the mice weigh as I didn't weigh them. She was a bit thin (could feel spine but no ribs and no bumps or anything) and had a bit of triangular type shape.
I am using frozen / thawed mice from petsmart. I thaw them in the fridge and then put them in a ziplock bag and put them in water as hot as my tap can get. I wait for awhile and feel them to see if they are warm before I feed.

[Bogertophis]

I believe she's 139 grams.
I was under the impression that u waited 1 week then u could handle, now I know I should wait a few weeks providing the meals are consecutive. Unfortunately no thermostat, I'm currently looking into it, not sure which brand is good / right for a decent price. I heard to not trust jumpstart. I don't know how old she is as the store I picked her up from gave me zero info (I was surprised I didn't get any papers attached to the cardboard carrier they put her in). I don't know how much the mice weigh as I didn't weigh them. She was a bit thin (could feel spine but no ribs and no bumps or anything) and had a bit of triangular type shape.
I am using frozen / thawed mice from petsmart. I thaw them in the fridge and then put them in a ziplock bag and put them in water as hot as my tap can get. I wait for awhile and feel them to see if they are warm before I feed.

It's really critical that you regulate the heat...BPs need a warm area that's 88-90*, but over that & they can get thermal burns, which will kill them faster than starvation...not to mention their pain & suffering. They crave the warmth but don't seem to have a good sense about what is "too hot"...maybe because they have thicker bodies? But you must regulate the heat, and be able to measure it accurately. Sounds like your local pet store wasn't much help either. Without seeing her, hard to say how serious her weight issue (being thin) actually is, & she may also have regurged at the store...not all stores are forthcoming about issues, they just (sadly) want to make a sale. After a snake has regurgitated, it's important to feed them smaller items...fuzzies would be more digestible for her (less fur & small size). To make sure she takes f/t, many here also warm them with a blow-dryer briefly, right before offering, to bring their temperature up to "life-like", & of course use feeding tongs. I'd highly recommend using a pinch of reptile "pro-biotics" on her food too (as I think was already suggested), to help her digestion, once she's ready to feed again. You can likely help her thru this but you do need to get things dialed in & stay vigilant.

[ShadowEpona]

I ordered the NutriBAC off of Amazon. If anyone has any recommendations on the thermostat / brand by all means please let me know. I have been using metal feeding tongs.

I have some pictures from when I asked her morph, here's a link to where they are on imgur. Hopefully it helps: https://imgur.com/gallery/TXn3gaE

[Gocntry]

I ordered the NutriBAC off of Amazon. If anyone has any recommendations on the thermostat / brand by all means please let me know. I have been using metal feeding tongs.

I have some pictures from when I asked her morph, here's a link to where they are on imgur. Hopefully it helps: https://imgur.com/gallery/TXn3gaE

I use the jumpstart type thermostats on 5 different enclosures, no failures so far (but less than a year in use)

If you want a way better one, I also have 2 Herpstats from Spyder Robotics, 1 Redline 2 and 1 HP for a heater (which I don't believe they make any more)

[ShadowEpona]

I want one that won't break the bank but is reliable lol
(I looked at a herpstat 2 that was 300$) I love Monty and I want her to b healthy and happy, but I also want something more affordable, and less shipping as this is something that should be done asap. I'll check out redline