Heating tank in cooler months?

[Awesomethepossum]

I haven't had any issues maintaining a good temperature gradient, but now that the temps are cooling down, I wanted to figure out a more efficient way of heating Dante's 10 gallon glass tank to maintain the ambient temps. I'm also concerned about humidity, as my home gets super dry during the winter.

So firstly, I was wondering if heat tape would be okay to use along the wall of his tank to maintain ambient temps--with the use of a thermostat of course. I ask, because I havent seen anyone really mention using it.

And in regards to humidity, should I just use a damp towel, or could I partially cover the top with plastic wrap? Or would that make the air too stagnant?

[Stewart_Reptiles]

Placing the UTH on the side is very inefficient and allows for a lot of heat loss.

The best way to maintain proper temps during the winter on the cool side if your ambient temp is low is to have a second UTH on the cool side (underneath the tank) with a second thermostat.

You want to be careful with covering the tank, proper airflow is very important, what you can do is change the substrate to a coconut type bedding such as reptichip, and provide a larger water dish.

[Bogertophis]

Putting UTH on the sides isn't mentioned because it's not efficient: heat rises, so instead of going up & INTO the cage as it does when properly installed under
the tank, most of the heat is a "miss". You're better off insulating the sides, back & bottom, leaving breathing space as required for the UTH.

Damp towels help a little, but like heating the side walls, it's not the most effective way to raise humidity. Much of the desired humidity comes from within...from
the right substrate that holds moisture, from using a "humid hide", and from a larger water bowl, especially if it's sitting partly over the UTH (for evaporation).
The reason that the plastic cages "hold humidity" is that they have very little air exchange...many have tiny vent holes, but some only have what little air gets in
around the doors. Point being...many using a glass tank find something solid* to block most of the screen top to retain humidity. (*anything that humidity cannot
escape thru....plexi-glass cut to fit, foil or even Saran wrap...many things can work.)

[Awesomethepossum]

Placing the UTH on the side is very inefficient and allows for a lot of heat loss.

The best way to maintain proper temps during the winter on the cool side if your ambient temp is low is to have a second UTH on the cool side (underneath the tank) with a second thermostat.

You want to be careful with covering the tank, proper airflow is very important, what you can do is change the substrate to a coconut type bedding such as reptichip, and provide a larger water dish.

Thank you for your response.

He already has an UTH for basking, this strip of heat tape and aluminum tape is just stuff I have on-hand from when I bred dubias. What you say makes sense, and should have been obvious. I'll put it underneath- with a thermostat of course.

He does have a decent sized water dish- which helps. I wish I could put a humid hide in as well, but a 10 gallon doesnt provide much room. I'll look into getting substrate for better humidity retention.

[Awesomethepossum]

Putting UTH on the sides isn't mentioned because it's not efficient: heat rises, so instead of going up & INTO the cage as it does when properly installed under
the tank, most of the heat is a "miss". You're better off insulating the sides, back & bottom, leaving breathing space as required for the UTH.

Damp towels help a little, but like heating the side walls, it's not the most effective way to raise humidity. Much of the desired humidity comes from within...from
the right substrate that holds moisture, from using a "humid hide", and from a larger water bowl, especially if it's sitting partly over the UTH (for evaporation).
The reason that the plastic cages "hold humidity" is that they have very little air exchange...many have tiny vent holes, but some only have what little air gets in
around the doors. Point being...many using a glass tank find something solid* to block most of the screen top to retain humidity. (*anything that humidity cannot
escape thru....plexi-glass cut to fit, foil or even Saran wrap...many things can work.)

I'll put the heat tape underneath..I dont really know what I was thinking with that.

I would love to put a third hide in his tank for humidity purposes, but the 10 gallon doesn't provide much space. I finally have him eating reliably, so I'm a tad weary about moving him up to a 20 gallon.

[Bogertophis]

Just a thought...when floor space is at a premium (for an extra "humid" hide), there's nothing wrong with a double-decker hide. That's what I do for my spotted
python...her warm hide is over the UTH (it'a a flat rectangular one from Reptile Basics) & sitting on top of that is her humid hide, which she usually prefers. It's not
quite as warm as the hide underneath, but heat does rise up into it, plus I use overhead heat. She has an unheated hide too, but only uses it when in shed.

[Awesomethepossum]

Just a thought...when floor space is at a premium (for an extra "humid" hide), there's nothing wrong with a double-decker hide. That's what I do for my spotted
python...her warm hide is over the UTH (it'a a flat rectangular one from Reptile Basics) & sitting on top of that is her humid hide, which she usually prefers. It's not
quite as warm as the hide underneath, but heat does rise up into it, plus I use overhead heat. She has an unheated hide too, but only uses it when in shed.

That's...actually really efficient

As long as he's comfortable and secure I'm happy, but I really do dislike smaller tanks for this reason...

Thank you for sharing that, I'll likely be giving that a shot

[Bogertophis]

That's...actually really efficient

As long as he's comfortable and secure I'm happy, but I really do dislike smaller tanks for this reason...

Thank you for sharing that, I'll likely be giving that a shot

I know, me too, but apparently BPs feel more secure & it's more important to keep our snakes happy; different kinds want different things so I've learned to be creative.
Incidentally, the "humid hide" is made from a shallow (3" deep) rectangular food storage container, with a hole cut for a door-way. You can put soaked moss or orchid
bark or other substrate inside that holds humidity...just be sure it's big enough for the snake too.

[Awesomethepossum]

I know, me too, but apparently BPs feel more secure & it's more important to keep our snakes happy; different kinds want different things so I've learned to be creative.
Incidentally, the "humid hide" is made from a shallow (3" deep) rectangular food storage container, with a hole cut for a door-way. You can put soaked moss or orchid
bark or other substrate inside that holds humidity...just be sure it's big enough for the snake too.

I hooked up the second heat pad to ensure a gradient of 90-88 warm side, and 80- 78 on the cool end. So that's all set. I really just didnt want to have to use a CHE.

In regards to the bedding, I had asked for the best in regards to humidity and was given Aspen shavings. All of them seemed to have their pros and cons--as long as it doesn't create mold! His water dish relatively large, and its located partly on the tank heater so that's a plus.

A bit off-topic, but I also just weighed him today. On an empty stomach he's 173g. At 3 months, I believe this is good for his age? I had read somewhere that once they hit 200g they should get moved up to a 20g, but another source said a 10g for up to a year is fine. As long as this is what he needs, I'll do it. I just want him to keep eating



And I'll probably stack for a humid hide, I just need to get another one of those repti-hides you mentioned. If the humidity gets too bad (enough to cause nose-bleeds..) I may end up getting a small humidifier for the room.

[Bogertophis]

Aspen shavings don't help humidity, as far as I know...sorry.