Seeking advice for new BP owner.

[Boba]

Hey! So I’m brand new to the reptile-owning world. I did SO MUCH research before getting my little guy, handled a bunch of other snakes, and really thought I knew what I was doing. And then I got mine and all that went out the window. I guess this is what first-time moms feel like??

My two biggest concerns right now:

1) I can’t get humidity levels to stabilize in my tank. I have a glass aquarium with a mesh lid. I have 2 water dishes, one directly below the heat lamp. I have covered 2/3 of the tank to prevent evaporation. I mist the tank at least once per day, have used soaked coconut husk mats under the substrate. And nothing I do will get the humidity over 35% for more than a few minutes. If I’m gone for a day or two it’s even gotten down to 15%.

2) I know BP are notoriously picky/bad eaters. Mine is no exception. I’ve tried to transition him a couple times to frozen/thawed rats (he was eating live pup rats from the breeder before I got him) with no success. Today I tried a live pup rat for about 15 minutes in the feeder tank and then gave up and put them both in his normal tank. They’ve now been together for a few hours, and rat actually just crawled his way into the hide with my snake. They’re apparently buddies now. I’m gonna leave him overnight (I’m pretty sure he’s too small to fight my snake) but I’m running out of ideas.... it’s only been about 2 or 3 weeks that I’ve had him, and I know he can go much longer without eating, but since I have yet to successfully feed him I’m starting to get worried.

Any advice or encouragement is greatly appreciated!!!

[dakski]

Hey! So I’m brand new to the reptile-owning world. I did SO MUCH research before getting my little guy, handled a bunch of other snakes, and really thought I knew what I was doing. And then I got mine and all that went out the window. I guess this is what first-time moms feel like??

My two biggest concerns right now:

1) I can’t get humidity levels to stabilize in my tank. I have a glass aquarium with a mesh lid. I have 2 water dishes, one directly below the heat lamp. I have covered 2/3 of the tank to prevent evaporation. I mist the tank at least once per day, have used soaked coconut husk mats under the substrate. And nothing I do will get the humidity over 35% for more than a few minutes. If I’m gone for a day or two it’s even gotten down to 15%.

2) I know BP are notoriously picky/bad eaters. Mine is no exception. I’ve tried to transition him a couple times to frozen/thawed rats (he was eating live pup rats from the breeder before I got him) with no success. Today I tried a live pup rat for about 15 minutes in the feeder tank and then gave up and put them both in his normal tank. They’ve now been together for a few hours, and rat actually just crawled his way into the hide with my snake. They’re apparently buddies now. I’m gonna leave him overnight (I’m pretty sure he’s too small to fight my snake) but I’m running out of ideas.... it’s only been about 2 or 3 weeks that I’ve had him, and I know he can go much longer without eating, but since I have yet to successfully feed him I’m starting to get worried.

Any advice or encouragement is greatly appreciated!!!

1. DO NOT LEAVE LIVE FOOD WITH YOUR SNAKE UNATTENDED! EVER, AT ALL!

This can lead to serious injury for your snake, or worse. Snakes only kill to eat.

2. FEED IN TANK!

3. How long have you had him? 1-2 weeks to settle at least if he's 6 months old. Then food.

4. How are you offering F/T prey? How are you defrosting?

5. What does tank look like? Hides, temps, etc.

6. Humidity needs to be adjusted and fixed ASAP.

This should be your priority.

Security, proper temps, and proper humidity for him. Then LEAVE HIM ALONE and let him settle.

Please take this to heart and that I am trying to help. Been keeping reptiles most of life and keep multiple species (including BP) of snakes and lizards. 13 animals in total.

GET THE RAT OUT OF THEIR NOW! Then answer questions and we will try to help.

[Boba]

1. DO NOT LEAVE LIVE FOOD WITH YOUR SNAKE UNATTENDED! EVER, AT ALL!

This can lead to serious injury for your snake, or worse. Snakes only kill to eat.

2. FEED IN TANK!

3. How long have you had him? 1-2 weeks to settle at least if he's 6 months old. Then food.

4. How are you offering F/T prey? How are you defrosting?

5. What does tank look like? Hides, temps, etc.

6. Humidity needs to be adjusted and fixed ASAP.

This should be your priority.

Security, proper temps, and proper humidity for him. Then LEAVE HIM ALONE and let him settle.

Please take this to heart and that I am trying to help. Been keeping reptiles most of life and keep multiple species (including BP) of snakes and lizards. 13 animals in total.

GET THE RAT OUT OF THEIR NOW! Then answer questions and we will try to help.

He wasn’t unattended... his tank is in my room so I was keeping an eye on him. But I took it out, snapped it’s neck and tossed it in the freezer for later.

2. Feed in tank... as in his regular tank?

3. I’ve had him maybe 2-3 weeks now? I waited just over a week before trying to feed for the first time, and then have tried every 4-5 days since.

4. I take the rat out of the freezer and transfer to plastic bag which I then submerge in lukewarm water for about 30 minutes until it’s fully thawed, then transfer to hot water for 20 minutes or so until the rat is a little warmer than room temp... then I’ve been using a separate feeder tank which I warm up with a heat lamp while the rat is thawing, put my snake in and then hold the rat by the tail, twitching him for about 15-20 minutes before giving up.

5. I have a 20-gallon glass aquarium with a screen lid. I’ve covered about 2/3 of the lid with plastic (it’s actually a picture frame I just set on top) to try and prevent too much evaporation. I have a heating pad on one side as well as a heat lamp set up to a regulator that keeps the temp on that side between 85 and 95 (it can sometimes get up to 104 during the day though, my thermometer has a memory so I can check it if I’ve been gone). This generally keeps the other side of the tank around 70-80, though it can get a bit warmer during the day. But my BP usually hangs out on the warm side anyway. I have two small water dishes on either side of the tank, a plastic hollowed-out tree thing that is his favorite hide on the warm side, and a cardboard box as hide #2 on the cool side. He rarely prefers that hide. I use Repti Bark substrate, but added a coconut husk mat under part of it near the heating pad because I was hoping that would help retain water and increase the humidity. I also have some vines and such scattered around for him to climb/explore as he goes around his tank.

6. Yes, I agree. What else can I do?




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[dakski]

He wasn’t unattended... his tank is in my room so I was keeping an eye on him. But I took it out, snapped it’s neck and tossed it in the freezer for later.

2. Feed in tank... as in his regular tank?

Yes. Where he lives and feels safe.

3. I’ve had him maybe 2-3 weeks now? I waited just over a week before trying to feed for the first time, and then have tried every 4-5 days since.

See the post I just put up. Leave him be for a bit and then offer again.

4. I take the rat out of the freezer and transfer to plastic bag which I then submerge in lukewarm water for about 30 minutes until it’s fully thawed, then transfer to hot water for 20 minutes or so until the rat is a little warmer than room temp... then I’ve been using a separate feeder tank which I warm up with a heat lamp while the rat is thawing, put my snake in and then hold the rat by the tail, twitching him for about 15-20 minutes before giving up.

I will post proper defrosting and offering procedure at the bottom of the post. 20 minutes in hot water = cooked rat, especially at that size. You should defrost at room temp or lukewarm water for as long as it takes for the size of rat, and then drop in hot water (tap water) for 30 seconds to a minute to get the heat pits going on your BP. Not more. Also, offer on tongs for a minute or two. If not interested, leave him alone, you are only stressing him out. You can leave a F/T rat in the tank overnight to see if he eats.

5. I have a 20-gallon glass aquarium with a screen lid. I’ve covered about 2/3 of the lid with plastic (it’s actually a picture frame I just set on top) to try and prevent too much evaporation. I have a heating pad on one side as well as a heat lamp set up to a regulator that keeps the temp on that side between 85 and 95 (it can sometimes get up to 104 during the day though, my thermometer has a memory so I can check it if I’ve been gone). This generally keeps the other side of the tank around 70-80, though it can get a bit warmer during the day. But my BP usually hangs out on the warm side anyway. I have two small water dishes on either side of the tank, a plastic hollowed-out tree thing that is his favorite hide on the warm side, and a cardboard box as hide #2 on the cool side. He rarely prefers that hide. I use Repti Bark substrate, but added a coconut husk mat under part of it near the heating pad because I was hoping that would help retain water and increase the humidity. I also have some vines and such scattered around for him to climb/explore as he goes around his tank.

Proper temps are: 88-90F hot spot. 82-84F ambient. 78-80F cool side.

All heating elements must be thermostat controlled. A BP exposed to 104F for any length of time can lead to nerve damage and/or death.

UNPLUG heating elements and get a thermostat - ASAP. Better to have a cool snake for a day or two than a dead one.

6. Yes, I agree. What else can I do?




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See above in blue.

[Boba]

I have a thermostat on the heating lamp. I originally just wanted to use the UTH alone, but found that it was only keeping the tank at around 80-84 on the warm side. So I bought the heating lamp and thermostat to just supply enough heat to raise that side of the tank the extra 5-10 degrees. I think my issue is that the tank was near a window, so when it was warmer outside it was getting too warm in the tank. I have moved my tank away from windows and turned the thermostat on the heating lamp down a bit, so I will continue to monitor and see how those changes help. Thanks so much!! Still up for more advice on increasing the humidity. Different substrates? Things I can add to the tank?

[RedRabbit]

I have a thermostat on the heating lamp. I originally just wanted to use the UTH alone, but found that it was only keeping the tank at around 80-84 on the warm side. So I bought the heating lamp and thermostat to just supply enough heat to raise that side of the tank the extra 5-10 degrees. I think my issue is that the tank was near a window, so when it was warmer outside it was getting too warm in the tank. I have moved my tank away from windows and turned the thermostat on the heating lamp down a bit, so I will continue to monitor and see how those changes help. Thanks so much!! Still up for more advice on increasing the humidity. Different substrates? Things I can add to the tank?

Thanks for the additional details. Er, apologies if I just missed this info elsewhere in the thread, but is your heat lamp the only thing that is regulated by the thermostat? The UTH needs to be regulated by a thermostat as well; any heating appliance has the potential to overheat, and that's the main thing you'll want to prevent, for your snake's safety.

I am glad that you moved the tank away from the windows, both to remove the contributor to a temperature inconsistency, and because it may also have been too bright for your ball python.

Humidity, hmmm! Misting more frequently may help. I've heard that coconut fiber substrates such as Reptile Prime are effective at holding humidity. Some people add little clumps of dampened sphagnum moss or terrarium moss throughout the tank.
I like a splash of color in my enclosures (though I use Sterilite tubs), so here's something I've found to be a good little "humidifier." I have some little dense-leaved plastic plants as decor that were originally intended to be aquarium accessories. When I want to bump up the humidity a notch, I run the plants under the faucet until evenly wetted, gently shake off the large excess droplets, and put them back in the enclosure. Because those leafy plants have a lot of surface area and nooks and crannies, they seem to hold a good amount of water in them that then gradually dissipates into the enclosure.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/ByTheBay-Plas...gateway&sr=8-2

[RedRabbit]

He wasn’t unattended... his tank is in my room so I was keeping an eye on him. But I took it out, snapped it’s neck and tossed it in the freezer for later.

2. Feed in tank... as in his regular tank?

3. I’ve had him maybe 2-3 weeks now? I waited just over a week before trying to feed for the first time, and then have tried every 4-5 days since.

4. I take the rat out of the freezer and transfer to plastic bag which I then submerge in lukewarm water for about 30 minutes until it’s fully thawed, then transfer to hot water for 20 minutes or so until the rat is a little warmer than room temp... then I’ve been using a separate feeder tank which I warm up with a heat lamp while the rat is thawing, put my snake in and then hold the rat by the tail, twitching him for about 15-20 minutes before giving up.

5. I have a 20-gallon glass aquarium with a screen lid. I’ve covered about 2/3 of the lid with plastic (it’s actually a picture frame I just set on top) to try and prevent too much evaporation. I have a heating pad on one side as well as a heat lamp set up to a regulator that keeps the temp on that side between 85 and 95 (it can sometimes get up to 104 during the day though, my thermometer has a memory so I can check it if I’ve been gone). This generally keeps the other side of the tank around 70-80, though it can get a bit warmer during the day. But my BP usually hangs out on the warm side anyway. I have two small water dishes on either side of the tank, a plastic hollowed-out tree thing that is his favorite hide on the warm side, and a cardboard box as hide #2 on the cool side. He rarely prefers that hide. I use Repti Bark substrate, but added a coconut husk mat under part of it near the heating pad because I was hoping that would help retain water and increase the humidity. I also have some vines and such scattered around for him to climb/explore as he goes around his tank.

6. Yes, I agree. What else can I do?




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1. Good to know that you were supervising! I think we just got particularly worried when we read that the rat had crawled in the hide with your snake, since it'd be hard to see what's going on in there.

2. Yes, actually! There is no need to move your snake to a separate location for feeding time; that idea was based on the myth of "cage aggression," and in reality there is no evidence of this being a thing, but unfortunately the faulty practice is still out there, so I'm sorry that you were misinformed, and be assured that it's happened with many other new owners as well.

3. Waiting 1 full week before your first feeding attempt was good, and spacing out the next feeding attempts was correct on your part too. Good job. However, as others have mentioned, another important part is resisting the temptation to handle your snake until however long it takes for him to establish his feeding routine - i.e., has fed without issue for 3-4 feedings in a row. It means basically a whole first month in which you can't play with your new pet, which is painful I know, but it works out better for your snake, and you'll have plenty of opportunities to play with him afterward.

4. See #2 regarding the separate feeder tank. Also, warming up the rat with a blowdryer for 10-15 seconds (with a focus on the head of the rat) right before offering can do wonders!

5. I don't use a glass tank so I'll let others chime in on that front, but in general, that heat lamp is both zapping your humidity away, and making things too hot if it's reaching 95, let alone 104. You also don't want quite such a large range of variation for the cool side either; you'll probably want to aim for 75-80, or even 78-80 if you can narrow it down more exactly. I like that you have some decor in there with him for enrichment and to clutter up the tank a little; just make sure the materials are non-toxic and pet-safe. I'm not so sure on that cardboard box for hide #2 though; the shape of a box won't make your snake feel very snug or secure, which is probably why he doesn't want to use it much, plus if he pees or poops on/near it, then that cardboard is going to get soggy and gross pretty quickly.

[Bogertophis]

While many here will steer you away from a glass tank for housing a BP (due to humidity requirements), it can be made to work. But you have to realize that
the plastic type cages many use have very little to almost-no air exchange to make that work. It's not as if humidity can go thru either glass OR plastic......
it's all about the air-flow. So to make it work, you need to cover more like 99% of the ventilated top.

Heat lamps are also notorious humidity-"thieves". If you used UTH, for example, the heat would be rising up thru your humid substrate. And all heating equip-
ment should be controlled by thermostat for safety, due to the higher warmth needed by BPs. All this is why you should always have your enclosure set up for
testing for at least a week before bringing home a snake, that will only be further stressed by you having to keep making changes when he is new & scared.

NEVER LEAVE A LIVE RAT IN THE CAGE WITH YOUR SNAKE...THEY GET HUNGRY AND WILL CHEW ON YOUR SNAKE, & IF YOUR SNAKE IS NOT READY TO EAT,
IT WILL NOT KILL THE RAT, IT WILL JUST BE TRAPPED & GETTING INJURED. Your snake & the rat are NOT "buddies". Not now, not ever.

Often the reason a BP won't eat (besides being handled, being new & scared, being fed the wrong way or wrong rodents or wrong size...) has to do with the
cage temperatures. What are they? -the highest & lowest?

[Stewart_Reptiles]

Aside from what was mentioned previously.

it’s only been about 2 or 3 weeks that I’ve had him, and I know he can go much longer without eating

Yes and no, it depends on the age/size of the animal if you just got a 2019 Baby you do not have much time and getting the animal on track as soon as possible is VERY important.

How big is your snake?

How big is your enclosure?

What are your exact temps? What do you use to measure them?

How tight are your hides?

How often have you been handling him?

[dakski]

Aside from what was mentioned previously.

Yes and no, it depends on the age/size of the animal if you just got a 2019 Baby you do not have much time and getting the animal on track as soon as possible is VERY important.

How big is your snake?

How big is your enclosure?

What are your exact temps? What do you use to measure them?

How tight are your hides?

How often have you been handling him?

I just saw the 2-3 weeks that he's been with you.

I also saw your other post where you have been taking pictures with him and handling, etc.

From the pictures, I agree with Deborah - it's important to getting him eating.

I think you need to make some adjustments to your tank and then leave him alone for a little bit, let him settle, and then do not handle, etc. until you he eats a few meals.

Basic for a tank:

Proper temps taken at the ground with a temp gun.

All heat devices thermostat controlled.

Proper humidity - which as Bogertophis mentioned, heat lamps will make difficult, especially if not being controlled and providing proper temps - in other words too hot = faster evaporation.

2 Hides minimum. Snug and the same hide on both sides. Boba should not have to pick security over proper temps.

I've made the mistake of handling and being excited and not following protocol for a new animal. You will have him for a long time and have plenty of time to bond. Get him on track first. Learn from others' mistakes.