Question on ceramic bulbs

[Dylan_]

So i kmow u would need a thermostat hooked up for a cerakic bulb but heres my questions 1. How many watt would i need for 54x long 22-23w 25h terrarium glass.
2. Where would u place the thermostat probe.
3. Would 1 bring up my ambient tempatures on my entire tank or would i need 2 ceramoc heaters?
Currently i have an exo 150w red basking bulb amd a 100w exo terra red basking bulb reason i use exo terra bulbs is they dont tend to get as hot as zoomed im not really looking to get more basking areas in the cage lol i have a uth for basking im just looking for bringing up the floor and ambient temps on my cool side seeing as they can drop as low as 74 73 thinking of putting another 150 on cool side seeing as floor gets about 80-84ish with the 150 on hot side im not usimg thermostat on these bulbs tho because the temps havent gotten high if anything sometimes they drop to low

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[Dylan_]

Sorry for all the typos phone can be difficult tk type on ever since i got this tempered glass my buttons dont want to work properly lol

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[BPGator]

Unless I’m misunderstanding, I don’t see why you need anymore heat sources. I think you’re saying your air temp is mid 80s on ho side and mid 70s cool side and you have UTH for belly heat. That sounds sufficient to me.


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[Dylan_]

Unless I’m misunderstanding, I don’t see why you need anymore heat sources. I think you’re saying your air temp is mid 80s on ho side and mid 70s cool side and you have UTH for belly heat. That sounds sufficient to me.


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Thought your never suppose to let the temps drop below 80? My cool side with temp gun on ground ranges from 73 to 75 some places 77

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[BPGator]

Thought your never suppose to let the temps drop below 80? My cool side with temp gun on ground ranges from 73 to 75 some places 77

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Your enclosure is over 4ft long. If it’s too cool for your snake he won’t go over there, but he’s got plenty of room to find the right temp for him.


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[Jakethesnake69]

I would use a 150 watt CHE and ditch the basking lights. BP’s don’t bask. They are crepuscular or nocturnal meaning dusk until dawn. The CHE will get your ambient where you want them. My probes in my tanks are at snake level under the CHE. My thermostat is set for 82. It could go up to 84 but sits right around 81-82 and 77-79 on cool side. The UTH is really just belly heat and does help the digestion. I also have the hot side at 87-89 and cool side is about 77 on the surface (at the glass) 75 is minimum.
As far as temps getting to low, is that with lights off at night? A CHE can be used around the clock and temps should always be regulated. BP’s should see a regular daytime/night time lighting condition. Bulbs get hot, with my cheap Century thermostat, it’s an on/off system that sees over 250 degrees at the source. Think about a little girls easy bake oven and how a regular bulb bakes brownies. Could be your snake.

[MennoA]

Unless I did a miscalculation ( and your size is in cm instead of inch), you got the same size tank as me, only mine is made out of wood.
I've got an 100w exoterra che hooked up to an thermostat. It keep my tank at 85 nicely on the hot spot and the cold side at 77ish.


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[Coluber42]

What you need for heating also depends very much on the temperature of the room you're in. Without that, no one can tell you whether you need more or not.

But yes, if your cool side gets too cool even when your hot side is at the right temperature, then you either need an additional heat source or you need to insulate the cage. You can make a pretty big difference in a glass tank by putting foam insulation board around three sides of it plus whatever parts of the screen top are not occupied with lamp fixtures. That alone might even make for enough less of a temperature dropoff from one side to the other that you don't need another heat source.

If you do need another heat source, a CHE will work. If in doubt, get a higher wattage one and the thermostat will dial it down as needed. Just make sure the fixture can handle whatever wattage you get! For overhead heat sources, I like to leave the thermostat probe dangling down so that it can't be sat on or peed on, which would throw it off. Since the probe will likely be a bit off to the side and not directly under the CHE, you might need to set it for a somewhat lower temperature than what you actually want under the CHE. Just check it several times in several places to figure out exactly how you need to set it to get what you want.

Re. basking: First of all, "crepuscular" is not the same as nocturnal. Crepuscular means most active around dawn and dusk, nocturnal means most active during full dark.
But also, ball pythons do occasionally bask during the day, both in captivity and in the wild, either openly or cryptically. Cryptic basking means the animal is mostly hidden, but some parts of the body are sticking out into the light. They're maybe more likely to bask if they have basking areas with visual cover, so they can still feel somewhat hidden from view. So providing a basking area with branches or leaves (fake is fine) or walls or something near and around it might make it more attractive.

They don't require it for survival the way many lizards do, but it's not correct to say they never do it.

[Dylan_]

I was told ches need certain lamp fixtures i will probably just get another 150 watt exo or just hook my space heatrr up in my room to bring my room temps up i already covrtrd 3 sides i have blocked top off with aluminum foil and tape to secure the aluminum foil down not sure why my temps wont higher seeing as i have 150w on warm side and 100w on cool

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[Dylan_]

I use red bulbs because i was told they dont mess with the snakes day/night cycle that you can leave them on 24/7. Maybe im missing something that isnt insulating the inside of tank ill double check before i upgrade the bulb

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