Divided T8, ball on one side, Hog onthe other?

[JRLongton]

The next Reptile Expo is coming up in September, so I need to get planning my next few snakes. I've kept corns and balls and now I may like to try a hognose.

I'm about to order a divided T8, and am planning on how to fill it. I'm definitely getting another ball for one side, but would it be proper and manageable to house a hatching hognose on the other side of the T8? Balls and Hogs have similar temp requirements (balls like it a bit warmer), but hogs like much lower humidity than do balls. I would imagine this wouldn't be much of an issue with a divider, especially if I sealed it in with that sealant they enclose (Lexar I think).

Finally, I never get lighting in the T8 as none of my snakes seem to like light at all. Would only very indirect sunlight be OK for a young hog?

Thanks for any advice, and Happy Fourth!

[Stewart_Reptiles]

Yes it can be done so long you are housing and adult hog, a baby will need very tight quarters it will be about 2 years before you can house your hog in the other side of the cage.

(balls like it a bit warmer)

You got that a little backward, hog like it a little hotter, I usually do hotspot of 88 for BP and 90/92 for Hog

Hog do not require any specific additional lightning.

[JRLongton]

For the hognose, could I go with the old clutter up the cage approach? Meaning have multiple hides and lots of cover. I've kept juvenile balls in a single T8 with no issue by doing that. Is there something different about hogs?

[Stewart_Reptiles]

For the hognose, could I go with the old clutter up the cage approach? Meaning have multiple hides and lots of cover. I've kept juvenile balls in a single T8 with no issue by doing that. Is there something different about hogs?

Not with a 8/10 grams hatchling you will never find it again and it will never eat, plus hognose do not use hides.

It's will take 2 years for a female to be about 200 grams if properly fed, that's the weight you usually see on a 3/4 month old BP.

To give you some perspective this is a 12 grams animal (about 5/6 month old and good feeder) in a 6 quarts tub, that's already a lot of space for an animal that size and you would be amazed how many people have feeding issue with hognose even in something like a 6 quart tub.

[Craiga 01453]

For the hognose, could I go with the old clutter up the cage approach? Meaning have multiple hides and lots of cover. I've kept juvenile balls in a single T8 with no issue by doing that. Is there something different about hogs?

I mean, you can, maybe. But I would advise against it. Have you seen a hatchlings hognose in person?? That is HUGE for a juvenile hognose. I took in a hognose a while back who was a year old, give or take and only 11 grams. He had 2 owners before coming to me and wouldn't eat. I took him to try to help a friend get him eating, long story short, ended up keeping little Cosmo. I took Deborah's advice from the beginning, followed it to a T.
Now, Cosmo has now been with me about 16 months and eats well, has gone from 11 grams to 68 and is in great shape.
My two cents: with hognose, they can be tricky to get started. Your beat bet is to go with what's proven to work. Start him/her out in something small, I'm talking small, and work your way up.

[JRLongton]

They don't use hides? Strange snakes indeed.

Well, this may be good news. If a hog requires a totally different set up than a T8 (which I'm getting anyway), then maybe I can get three snakes come Sept!

[Apiratenamedjohn]

plus hognose do not use hides.

Ha! tell that to my hognose. He loves his hides, especially just before a shed.

[JRLongton]

I live in Mass and don't have a snake room (yet), so I can't have ambient room temps high enough to allow for a rack system. Well, the last few days I could (been miserable hot), but most of the year the ambient temp in my house is about 70 or so, hence my use of T8s.

Since a UTH doesn't do much of anything for the ambient temp in a tub (I've experimented), I'm gathering from you guys that I'd need to go with a CHE in a tank or something, in which case I'd just skip on the hognose. That or skip the hatchling phase and go with a more established hognose.

I would certainly defer to Deborah in all things snake, but since Craig lives in Mass also, can I ask how you did it with Cosmo? Did you get away with a tub and UTH or did you use a tank? That is assuming that you don't have a heated snake room.

[Apiratenamedjohn]

I would never put a che in a cage. Let alone with a hognose. Curious, tiny, and strong, does not make a good combo for that che even with a wire gaurd. I would go with an rhp.

[JRLongton]

I would never put a che in a cage. Let alone with a hognose. Curious, tiny, and strong, does not make a good combo for that che even with a wire gaurd. I would go with an rhp.

I have only ever used RHPs and never want to use anything else. CHE's are inefficient fire hazards that can easily burn snakes and keepers. Incandescent bulbs are less dangerous, but more inefficient, and shine that glaring light down on the poor creature.

Until I get my snake room, its RHPs only for me. And if that means no hatchling hognose 'til then, so be it.

I could go with a black Mexican king, they look pretty damn cool!