Vote for BP.Net for the 2013 Forum of the Year! Click here for more info.

» Site Navigation

» Home
 > FAQ

» Online Users: 3,286

4 members and 3,282 guests
Most users ever online was 6,337, 01-24-2020 at 04:30 AM.

» Today's Birthdays

None

» Stats

Members: 75,100
Threads: 248,542
Posts: 2,568,763
Top Poster: JLC (31,651)
Welcome to our newest member, Scott L.
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 13 of 13
  1. #11
    BPnet Lifer wolfy-hound's Avatar
    Join Date
    10-10-2005
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    5,505
    Thanks
    2,128
    Thanked 2,221 Times in 1,151 Posts
    Images: 23
    Your thermostat shouldn't be how you tell what temps in the snake's cage are. The thermostat is what you set to a number to warm the caging up. Did you mean a thermometer?

    It does sound like the snake got cold and that will stop digestion which can result in a regurge.

    What kind of thermometer are you using to measure the "ground" temp in the snake's cage? What type of heating? What regulation device are you using to set the temp?
    Theresa Baker
    No Legs and More
    Florida, USA
    "Stop being a wimpy monkey,; bare some teeth, steal some food and fling poo with the alphas. "

  2. #12
    BPnet Veteran Godzilla78's Avatar
    Join Date
    04-18-2016
    Location
    Asheville, NC, USA
    Posts
    2,382
    Thanks
    3,260
    Thanked 2,106 Times in 1,195 Posts
    I would be willing to bet that the problem is almost certainly temperature related.

    This is how I make sure my pythons are healthy temperature, and eating regularly.
    1) Ambient temperatures of the enclosure air on the cool side is regulated by a thermostatically controlled space heater set to keep the ambient air temps of the enclosure space 77-80 degrees Fahrenheit. I track this temperature using a thermometer probe hanging in the enclosure to read ambient air temps and humidity levels.

    2) The back of the enclosure is the hot area, where they spend most of their time in their warm hides, which is heated underneath the enclosure by heat tape across the entire back of the enclosure. I have a sophisticated Herpstat dimming controlled thermostat, which regulates the temperature of the heat tape using a thermo probe, which is taped securely to the heat tape. I regulate the heat tape to 92 degrees Fahrenheit at the hottest spot, and my pythons like to burrow into that hot area most of the time, and especially after they eat, and since it has been winter they seem to favor the hotspot also.

    3) I check all temperatures, especially the hotspot, with a Infrared laser thermometer gun. This is very precise, and more accurate than any other of my thermometers, and allows me to dial in my herpstat dimming thermostat to keep temps of the hot spot EXACTLY where I want them, between 90-92 degrees Fahrenheit.

    In short, I have a very precise control of the pythonsenvironment using a combination of thermostats, thermometers, thermo probes, ambient heater, and under tank heater.
    My pythons have never had any digestive issues, or any health problems whatsoever.

    In my opinion none of these temperature controlled technologies are optional. We are keeping an equatorial tropical species in a vastly different temperate
    environment than their native home, so all this technology is vital to their health.

  3. #13
    BPnet Veteran Godzilla78's Avatar
    Join Date
    04-18-2016
    Location
    Asheville, NC, USA
    Posts
    2,382
    Thanks
    3,260
    Thanked 2,106 Times in 1,195 Posts


Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v4.2.1