Switching from live to f/t?

[Freckles24]

So I recently 'inherited' a 25 year old male ball python. He has never been offered anything but live rats-like adult big rats once (ish) a month. I read that he needs to once a week (either big nice or small rats, right?). The issue is I feel like he won't be interested in a f/t because he's never had them. Is there a way to switch him to f/t? It'd be more convenient for me and safer for him but I don't know how to go about it.

[Freckles24]

Anyone?

[Randall L Turner Jr]

Can't hurt to just make sure its warm and offer it to him, if he doesn't take it right off when offering it up I would suggest leaving it in the enclosure over night, I've had a handful that wouldn't take initially and required the feeder be left for them. Might surprise you. You won't need to feed him more than he has been if he has a healthy build.

[RickyNY]

Wait until tomorrow, the experts are probably resting for the night.

[hollowlaughter]

This is the general procedure IIRC:

• Wait until the snake is obviously hungry, maybe skipping a week if need be.
• Thaw FT rodent in hot water.
• Remove FT rodent from water, leave near snake's enclosure for 30-45 minutes.
• Check if you have activity from the snake (moving around enclosure, s-neck from hide, etc.)
• If you do, proceed with the heat lamp/blow dryer heating method usually used.
• Aim to get the FT rodent's head warm (not hot) to touch, around 100F.
• Using tongs or hemostats, lower the FT rodent into the enclosure.
• Hold it still at this point. If you're lucky, he'll know what's up and strike after a bit.
• If not, remove, reheat.
• Grasp mouse by the back/neck, do the zombie dance (this refers to making it seem alive.)
• If none of this works and the rodent is large enough, you can refreeze and wait a week.
• Small FT rodents, just toss them and come back next week.

Some BPs switch easily, some need to hunger strike for a bit 'til they give up.

Long as the animal came to you plump, there shouldn't be any issue with it not eating for a few weeks. I'd advise you weigh the animal now and record the weight through these feeding attempts so others with more experience fighting hunger strikes can tell you when you need to consider other methods ranging from scenting to braining to assist feeding to get your animal working with you.

[artgecko]

I follow the procedure above with a few exceptions:
- I thaw my rodents in the fridge overnight (it can take up to 2 days if they are large)
- About 2 hours before feeding, I get the rodent out and let it sit to warm up to room temps
- I use a blow dryer to heat the rodent up to normal rat body temp (warm to the touch), especially the head.
- I use a pair of hemostats or tongs to dangle the rodent for the snake.. I grip it behind the head or by the hindquarters and move it around at ground level to simulate walking.

I have a couple snakes that will only eat if I leave the feeder in there, but most will strike while it is being moved on the tongs.

I do not re-freeze feeders.. I usually heat up 1 less than I need and if someone refuses, their meal goes to another snake.

If your BP is in good weight (does he look round? can you see his spine and he looks more triangular?), then you don't necessarily have to change his schedule. My adult female BPs get fed 1 medium or large rat every 2 weeks and I've had some of them strike for a long time and be fine.

[Kroberts10]

Like the others, I do the same thing, but with one change also. I thaw mine in te room with a small fan blowing over them towards the snakes and I heat them up in hot tap water after they are thawed. I don't worry about them being wet, it doesn't seem to bother mjne anyway. You can tell the aggressive feeders because they will be surfing back and forth along the front of the tub. Just watch out when you open the tub because they seem to strike the first thing that is warm and moves near them. If they aren't out moving after thawing this way, then the chance of them eating is pretty slim by comparison. Though still a possibility.

Kyle


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[Craiga 01453]

One method I have read about, but haven't used personally because I've never needed to switch over, is to wait until a shed cycle to try to switch.

From what I understand, if you wait until you notice a shed is coming and then do not offer any prey until the shed is complete, this is a great time to switch.

If the snake won't accept your first few F/T offerings maybe stick to live until the shed comes. Don't offer any prey while in shed, and after the shed is complete offer the F/T.

Again, I have no experience with this, but have read it produces great results.

[Hannahshissyfix]

I have switched plenty of adults that were only fed live to ft. And have only ever had 1 that took me about 2 years to get totally switched so I think with enough time any snake can switch. Sometimes it's easy, sometimes it takes lots of patience. And sometimes lots and lots and lots of patience. There were already lots of good tips listed so ill just repeat some if it that has worked beat for me. Thawed, dried (or mostly dried. I just use warm water then dry in a paper towel as much as possible), held with tongs at back scruff so its in a normal position and not just dangling, wait until night time and keep room as dark as possible so you can just see what youre doing, make as little disturbance as possible opening the enclosure. I have the best luck if the snake is in its hide to start and not out cruising around. It seems if i put the rat in and just sorta put its head by the opening to the hide that the snake is more likely to just quickly strike without having a chance to see that the rat isn't quite moving naturally or my hand in there with the tongs. After it strikes don't jerk back but keep the rat on the tongs or if it slipped off just use the tongs to grab a leg or something sticking out and continue to give the rat a little wiggle while the snake continues to wrap harder. It helps the snake think it was live and fighting back a bit like they're used to otherwise I've seen some strike then let go when the realize something is off. If it's in good body condition and used to monthly feedings then I'd just leave it totally alone and NO handling for at least 2 weeks before offering with that procedure. Good luck and don't give up if it takes a couple months for him to take one. Unless he's skinny then he'll be fine to really work up some hunger.