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Heat issues with UTH and Thermostat
Hey all!
This is my first post so go easy on me . I have just recently got my ball python last week, did a ton of research before. Please see my set up below.
-Substrate: Jungle Floor
-Housing: Zoomed 20 gallon long tank
-Thermostat: Zilla Watt
-UTH: Zoomed
My Issue is the thermostat and the UTH my basking temp sits between 86-87 when my thermostat is maxed out at around 105. My probe is placed directly under the UTH and taped and sealed with duct tape. For those of you who dont know the zilla probe is massive-Causing some sticking issues, hence the duct tape. I have a thermometer placed inside the tank under the substrate which is about half an inch. Ive tried everything to increase the heat and it just wont happen. Ive tried sealing the heating matt, putting as little substrate as possible but nothing is working!!! Also please don't suggest lights, I have heard they suck the humidity out and stress out the snake.
Please let me know what i should do.
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The probe is huge. Those tstats are not very reliable. I would start planning on a better replacement and keep that one as a backup. I like Herpstats.
The substrate over the uth should be a 1/4 inch at most.
86-87 is actually fine for a hotspot. I keep most of mine in the range.
Yes, heat fixture can such humidity but there are ways to defeat that like placing damp moss in the hides. A uth is for a hotspot and it's not designed or intended to heat the tank air. Many times a overhead heat fixture is necessary. Before I had a designated snake room I had a 100watt che and a 60watt bulb over my BP to keep things right. I like it cold so I had to add heat fixtures but had perfect sheds.
KMG
0.1 BP 1.1 Blood Python 1.0 Brazilian Rainbow Boa 1.0 Aru Green Tree Python
0.1 Emerald Tree Boa 0.1 Dumeril Boa 0.1 Carpet Python 0.1 Central American Boa
0.1 Brooks Kingsnake 0.1 Speckled Kingsnake 1.0 Western Hognose
0.1 Blonde Madagascar Hognose 1.0 Columbian Boa
1.1 Olde English Bulldogge 1.0 Pit Bull
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Re: Heat issues with UTH and Thermostat
I just recently got a temp gun and the UTH is up to about 88-89. However the cold spot is around 73-74. What would you suggest I do? Put a heat lamp on? What kind and how long should it be on?
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Re: Heat issues with UTH and Thermostat
Originally Posted by Binkskii
I just recently got a temp gun and the UTH is up to about 88-89. However the cold spot is around 73-74. What would you suggest I do? Put a heat lamp on? What kind and how long should it be on?
I'm having the same issue with my cold spot area hovering around 74-75 so I ordered another UTH and I'm gonna control that with my Herpstat2 and set it for the low 80s.
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Re: Heat issues with UTH and Thermostat
Originally Posted by ckuhn003
I'm having the same issue with my cold spot area hovering around 74-75 so I ordered another UTH and I'm gonna control that with my Herpstat2 and set it for the low 80s.
If i didnt have a herpstat2 or an extra thermostat do you think it would be worth the trouble? Is it THAT bad for the temps do be where they are?
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Re: Heat issues with UTH and Thermostat
Originally Posted by Binkskii
If i didnt have a herpstat2 or an extra thermostat do you think it would be worth the trouble? Is it THAT bad for the temps do be where they are?
I'm probably not the one who can answer that because I'm still snakeless. Trying to get my setup in order before I have him shipped Adding another UTH seemed like my only option because I'm using a PVC enclosure which doesnt allow for any time of lamp heating. The extra UTH is fairly cheap. Spending money on the tstat was worth it to me. Better then constantly stressing about temps.
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Temps under 75F are not good.
Adding a small bulb, maybe 60 watt, should get you just where you need to be.
I would suggest using a lamp stand. They are $20 at both big pet stores. This keeps the fixture off the tank lid, reduces chances of a burn or fire, keeps the bulb from bouncing around which will make the bulb last longer. They can also be used to regulate how much heat goes into the tank. Raising it reduces the heat and lowering it raises the heat.
You can also put the bulb on a dimmer and dial it in where you need. This is good if you have a larger bulb but don't need is full power. Running a higher watt bulb at a lower power will make them last longer as well.
Something else to look into is a ceramic heat emitter (che). These are good because they do not put out light and last a long time. I've got some that had worked at full power 24/7 for over a year and a half. They still work I just didn't need them anymore when I got a designated snake room. They are a bit pricey compared to a bulb but they pay for themselves over time. If you go this route do yourself a favor and buy the wire cage fixture made for them to run it.
KMG
0.1 BP 1.1 Blood Python 1.0 Brazilian Rainbow Boa 1.0 Aru Green Tree Python
0.1 Emerald Tree Boa 0.1 Dumeril Boa 0.1 Carpet Python 0.1 Central American Boa
0.1 Brooks Kingsnake 0.1 Speckled Kingsnake 1.0 Western Hognose
0.1 Blonde Madagascar Hognose 1.0 Columbian Boa
1.1 Olde English Bulldogge 1.0 Pit Bull
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Re: Heat issues with UTH and Thermostat
Originally Posted by ckuhn003
I'm probably not the one who can answer that because I'm still snakeless. Trying to get my setup in order before I have him shipped Adding another UTH seemed like my only option because I'm using a PVC enclosure which doesnt allow for any time of lamp heating. The extra UTH is fairly cheap. Spending money on the tstat was worth it to me. Better then constantly stressing about temps.
A radiant heat panel could be used as well. Best in cage no higher than 15 inches. They still need a tstat but do more for air temps than a uth.
Look up Pro-Products.
pro-products.com
Last edited by KMG; 08-09-2017 at 07:31 PM.
KMG
0.1 BP 1.1 Blood Python 1.0 Brazilian Rainbow Boa 1.0 Aru Green Tree Python
0.1 Emerald Tree Boa 0.1 Dumeril Boa 0.1 Carpet Python 0.1 Central American Boa
0.1 Brooks Kingsnake 0.1 Speckled Kingsnake 1.0 Western Hognose
0.1 Blonde Madagascar Hognose 1.0 Columbian Boa
1.1 Olde English Bulldogge 1.0 Pit Bull
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Re: Heat issues with UTH and Thermostat
Originally Posted by KMG
Temps under 75F are not good.
Adding a small bulb, maybe 60 watt, should get you just where you need to be.
I would suggest using a lamp stand. They are $20 at both big pet stores. This keeps the fixture off the tank lid, reduces chances of a burn or fire, keeps the bulb from bouncing around which will make the bulb last longer. They can also be used to regulate how much heat goes into the tank. Raising it reduces the heat and lowering it raises the heat.
You can also put the bulb on a dimmer and dial it in where you need. This is good if you have a larger bulb but don't need is full power. Running a higher watt bulb at a lower power will make them last longer as well.
Something else to look into is a ceramic heat emitter (che). These are good because they do not put out light and last a long time. I've got some that had worked at full power 24/7 for over a year and a half. They still work I just didn't need them anymore when I got a designated snake room. They are a bit pricey compared to a bulb but they pay for themselves over time. If you go this route do yourself a favor and buy the wire cage fixture made for them to run it.
Im going to get the CHE with a dimming option lamp so i don't need another t-stat. I will just adjust it so that it stays at a low 80. This is sufficient right?
Last edited by Binkskii; 08-09-2017 at 10:35 PM.
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Re: Heat issues with UTH and Thermostat
I am going to get a 25W ceramic bulb and a 5.5 inch fixture, however no dimmer. Thoughts?
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