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  1. #1
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    Hognose Feeding Help

    Quote Originally Posted by Deborah View Post
    It really depends on the size, some will even brumate them when they encounter young animals that persist in their refusal but generally with proper husbandry they should eat especially if they are good feeders in general and she was.

    My guess if you downsize some more and change the scent it will work I would likely also bump the cool side a little to 80/82 if you can. If she was eating before there is no reason she is not eating now especially if your temperature reading are correct (taken with a digital thermometer and on the floor level of each side.)

    Most issues I have ever encounter with young individual (Produced or bought) are usually with males not females.
    I didn't want to start a new topic for the same issue so I'll just ask here. Sorry for hijacking your thread cron14!

    I'm definitely having a problem with my male. His last meal was 11/03 and was eating great for the breeder. He came with the feeding card but since arriving we've been on a food strike. He's in a 6qt tub, temps at 90 on the hot side with the cool side at 80. I've tried scenting with chicken broth, tuna, braining and offering tuna as well as the hard boiled egg. No luck. He's still active and drinking water. I haven't considered assist feeding because I know they can go quite a while without eating but it's still frustrating.

    Any tips I may have missed? Oh and he's been on both aspen and paper towels. I thought about covering 3 or even all sides of the tub to make him feel more secure.

  2. #2
    Telling it like it is! Stewart_Reptiles's Avatar
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    What is his current size? Depending on the size you can even go smaller, I breed hognose and generally until they reach 20 grams I keep them in a tub with the following dimensions 12" L x 3" W x 2" H (part of my colubrid hatchling rack) or in a 2.7 quarts tub 11.50 x 7.38 x 3.25 Inches keep it on aspen at least 1 to 2 inches preferably the fine shaving.

    Other scent that have been great for me are anchovies and toad, and of course but not list offering live which I know is problematic if it is a very small animal, finding live pinky can be difficult.

    Males are notorious to go off feed actually a lot more than females, and I have seen this a few times when a male is shipped out and it will refuse to eat for his new owner.

    Now assisting is an option if the animal is in bad condition or has never ate before however it's far from being easy (usually done with adult pieces of tails) and not something I would suggest, the animal knows how to eat and has ate before (do you know how many meals, I for example don't let them go until they have at least 10 F/T meals which put them easily at 15 meals or more before they are ready for their new home.)

    The last step if all fails is to cool him down (brumate) it can kick start their feeding once out of brumation.

    And of course make sure to contact your breeder as well so he can give you some more insight since he produced they animal.
    Deborah Stewart


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    andrewross8705 (01-24-2017)

  4. #3
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    Re: Hognose Feeding Help

    I'll have to check his feeding card for what I have as a current weight. I'll also pick up a smaller tub on the way home from work. The toad scent might be more difficult to come by since I don't have any toads readily available. He's on zoo med aspen bedding until my new order of sani chips comes in.

    He came from Jessica with Gecko Babies, if you're familiar with her. He has had more than 10 meals and was eating F/T pinks every 3-4 days. I have reached out to her and she didn't have any problems with feeding but has had problems in the past where hogs go off food after being shipped. I haven't thought about brumating but will look up the info to see what needs to be done for that.


    Thanks for the help Deborah, you're the best!

    - - - Updated - - -

    I'll have to check his feeding card for what I have as a current weight. I'll also pick up a smaller tub on the way home from work. The toad scent might be more difficult to come by since I don't have any toads readily available. He's on zoo med aspen bedding until my new order of sani chips comes in.

    He came from Jessica with Gecko Babies, if you're familiar with her. He has had more than 10 meals and was eating F/T pinks every 3-4 days. I have reached out to her and she didn't have any problems with feeding but has had problems in the past where hogs go off food after being shipped. I haven't thought about brumating but will look up the info to see what needs to be done for that.


    Thanks for the help Deborah, you're the best!

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    Stewart_Reptiles (01-24-2017)

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    Thanks to the person who moved this into it's own thread. I initially didn't want to have another repeat topic.


    His last meal was 11/12/2016 and his current weight as of last night was 8g. I'm picking up a smaller container today for him. I also noticed he's spending more time on the cool side than the hot side. He seems to favor the one wall of his tub. I'm not sure if that's anything of concern.

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    Well the hunger strike has finally ended. I hope for good but we will see again in a few days when I go to feed again. He finally ate last night and I had to double check when I didn't see a pinky in the deli cup because I thought the bump was him sitting on the pinky. I'm going to replicate what I did last night in hopes of him eating again.

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    Re: Hognose Feeding Help

    Quote Originally Posted by andrewross8705 View Post
    Well the hunger strike has finally ended. I hope for good but we will see again in a few days when I go to feed again. He finally ate last night and I had to double check when I didn't see a pinky in the deli cup because I thought the bump was him sitting on the pinky. I'm going to replicate what I did last night in hopes of him eating again.
    Glad to hear it!!

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