My Ball python vomited a day after eating

[Freejkf]

So how I have my rack set up the sensing bulb is about an inn or two to the left of where my heating pad is mounted. Then I adjust temps to get the "hottest" spot on the heat pad to attain 92-95 degrees because the rest of my tub is a little colder than I would like 75-78


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[Freejkf]

And the bulb is taped to the bottom of inside of the tub with residue free black duck tape.


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[bcr229]

And does it matter if it's just the spot directly above my heat pad that is high 90s because the rest of my tub is around 76 degrees where I keep my room at

Yes it matters, 98*F is way too hot for comfort and the rest of the area is too cold for proper digestion.

In addition to not feeding for 2-3 weeks, get some NutriBAC from TheBeanFarm.com - it's a reptile probiotic that will help your snake recover. Dust a damp f/t feeder with a pinch of the powder.

Your snake's next meal should be a small mouse dusted with NutriBAC. If that stays down wait two weeks before feeding a similar sized feeder. If that stays down then wait a week and feed another small meal. If that's ok then start feeding as normal.

Also you mentioned "moving to feed". Feed your snake in its enclosure. No, it won't get cage aggressive, that's a myth spread by stores that want to sell you two enclosures rather than just one.

ETA: post a picture of where your thermostat probe is in relation to the heat pad b/c I don't think you have it set up properly.

[Freejkf]

Yes it matters, 98*F is way too hot for comfort and the rest of the area is too cold for proper digestion.

In addition to not feeding for 2-3 weeks, get some NutriBAC from TheBeanFarm.com - it's a reptile probiotic that will help your snake recover. Dust a damp f/t feeder with a pinch of the powder.

Your snake's next meal should be a small mouse dusted with NutriBAC. If that stays down wait two weeks before feeding a similar sized feeder. If that stays down then wait a week and feed another small meal. If that's ok then start feeding as normal.

Also you mentioned "moving to feed". Feed your snake in its enclosure. No, it won't get cage aggressive, that's a myth spread by stores that want to sell you two enclosures rather than just one.

ETA: post a picture of where your thermostat probe is in relation to the heat pad b/c I don't think you have it set up properly.

Thank you let me know what you think


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[Freejkf]

This is how I have most of my bps set up. I have 4 thermostats set up for 12 tubs each has 3 tubs on it


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[bcr229]

You need to get the probe AND THE TAPE out of the enclosure immediately. Tape should never ever be in a reptile enclosure, as it sticks to your snake a lot better than to the tub.

The probe goes on the outside of the tub sandwiched between a corner of the heat pad and the underside of the tub. Set the thermostat to 90*F, wait for the heat pad to come to its steady-state, use a temperature gun to measure the floor of the tub, and adjust the thermostat up or down as needed.

[PitOnTheProwl]

Soon I am going to have to redo this with all the notes and dos and donts.........
The placement of your probe is NOT regulating your heat source.

[cletus]

Wasn't there a thread not to long ago about a stick on thermometer that came loose from the side of the tank and stuck to the BPs eye???

[Zincubus]

And the bulb is taped to the bottom of inside of the tub with residue free black duck tape.


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As mentioned by someone a few posts ago this is a definite NO NO !

I'd remove the tape immediately and tape the probe underneath the outside of the rub pronto ..


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[cletus]

What everyone else said. If you need to secure a thermometer probe or something like that inside the tub, use hot glue. It works well and they wont pull it loose. They can pretty much pull anything loose when it's taped. Even little bitty hatchlings. It's just a bad idea. Pit's crayola picture is the way to go. It's safe and gives you the best chance for accurate readings..