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  1. #1
    Registered User Panic2336's Avatar
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    Emerald tree boa help!!

    Hello world I have a emerald tree boa been having him for about 1 month and a half he's about 10-12 month old (what" backwaterreptiles.com" says) got him from them. He's very dócil he's kept at 80f day and about 76F night time humidity is always between 70% and 85%. I'm worried I think he's too skinny has some wrinkles while he perchs and you can see his spine and maybe a bit of his ribs he pooped 2 times a week in between poops then fed him a small live mouse and after about 10 days pooped again now it's been about 3 weeks and a half since he ate and he does not want to eat.i failed to feed him f/t several times as well as live mouse with no success either he avoids the meal by going away which is more frequently for him to do or he flicks his tongue follows the meal but no succes he don't eat help please he doesn't make noise when breathing,no mucus,no bubbles in nose not breathing thru mouth so I don't think it's a respiratorial infection. i need information about this topic any type of help will be extremly appreciated thank you. I need info people! Pictures below…


    http://s349.photobucket.com/user/pan...ar6/slideshow/

  2. #2
    BPnet Royalty KMG's Avatar
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    Does it have a hotspot? An ambient temp of 80 should be alright if you have a hotspot for him as well.

    A three week feeding schedule is normal with these.

    My tablet hates Photobucket so I had to look at the pics on my phone. From what I can see he looks pretty normal. These are long and lean snakes and being able to see their muscle and such is common, especially in a young snake that has not filled out completely.
    KMG
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  3. #3
    Registered User Panic2336's Avatar
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    Re: Emerald tree boa help!!

    Awesome dude thank you so much for replying I been stressing out too much I'm very concerned about his well being there's not much info on the internet. So his wrinkles are ok? Also it's been 25 days since his last meal I tried rĄto feed him last night and instead he pooped. Any thoughts on that? Thank you so much.

  4. #4
    BPnet Royalty KMG's Avatar
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    Most snakes will have a wrinkles when they are coiled.

    A movement is a good thing. It means digestion is going good and the temps have been ok. Most Tree Pythons and Boas are strong feeders so not wanting a meal after 3.5 weeks tells me he doesn't like something.

    In order for me to help you I need my questions answered though.

    Does he have a hotspot?

    Do you have a IR temp gun?

    How do you heat his meals?
    KMG
    0.1 BP 1.1 Blood Python 1.0 Brazilian Rainbow Boa 1.0 Aru Green Tree Python
    0.1 Emerald Tree Boa 0.1 Dumeril Boa 0.1 Carpet Python 0.1 Central American Boa
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  5. #5
    Registered User Panic2336's Avatar
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    Re: Emerald tree boa help!!

    Yes he has a hot spot right under the heat lamp he never goes there (sometimes at night)he stays where it's around 80F most of the time his first and only meal he had was a live mouse. I offered him another live one last night but did not eat, I don't have a temp gun

  6. #6
    Registered User Panic2336's Avatar
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    What can be wrong? Temps are ok humidity is ok 12/12 cycle help

  7. #7
    BPnet Royalty KMG's Avatar
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    You need to get a temp gun. GTP and ETB are more delicate than many snakes and knowing what the real felt temps of each perch is important.

    Im not there so I cant know for sure but my first impression is that the temps may be a bit low. ETB are said to not use their hotspot often but one should still be available. This spot should be 85-90 and some keep them as high as 93. Without a temp gun you are only guessing what the hotspot is in your cage.

    If it were me Id boost the ambient temps a bit and get a temp gun a.s.a.p. They are fairly cheap on Amazon but if you are able Id go to a hardware store and get one today.

    You should be able to insulate the back and sides of the cage to raise the ambient temps. Ive used thick art paper on my glass tanks to do this. It raised my temps a couple degrees.

    It is also very important to get the temp gun so that as you are raising the temps you can check each perch and make sure they are safe.
    Last edited by KMG; 11-19-2016 at 02:16 PM.
    KMG
    0.1 BP 1.1 Blood Python 1.0 Brazilian Rainbow Boa 1.0 Aru Green Tree Python
    0.1 Emerald Tree Boa 0.1 Dumeril Boa 0.1 Carpet Python 0.1 Central American Boa
    0.1 Brooks Kingsnake 0.1 Speckled Kingsnake 1.0 Western Hognose
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    BPnet Royalty KMG's Avatar
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    If you could post some of the cage pics in the thread so I can see them better. You do this by simply pasting the "img code" into the text box. When you submit the post the pics will appear in your thread.
    KMG
    0.1 BP 1.1 Blood Python 1.0 Brazilian Rainbow Boa 1.0 Aru Green Tree Python
    0.1 Emerald Tree Boa 0.1 Dumeril Boa 0.1 Carpet Python 0.1 Central American Boa
    0.1 Brooks Kingsnake 0.1 Speckled Kingsnake 1.0 Western Hognose
    0.1 Blonde Madagascar Hognose 1.0 Columbian Boa

    1.1 Olde English Bulldogge 1.0 Pit Bull

  9. #9
    Registered User Panic2336's Avatar
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    Ok I posted a pic of my enclosure which has a temp and humidity gauge so I'm always checking those things I also put some art paper on the sides of the cage for privacy and to insulate, my next more will be getting a temp gun to be extra sure about what's happening in there.
    https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...3/img_0343.jpg
    Last edited by Panic2336; 11-19-2016 at 06:27 PM.

  10. #10
    BPnet Royalty KMG's Avatar
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    Re: Emerald tree boa help!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Panic2336 View Post
    Ok I posted a pic of my enclosure which has a temp and humidity gauge so I'm always checking those things I also put some art paper on the sides of the cage for privacy and to insulate, my next more will be getting a temp gun to be extra sure about what's happening in there.
    https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...3/img_0343.jpg
    What size is that cage?

    An adult ETB is suggested to have at least a 3ft x 2ft x 2ft. You seem to have the height but not the width. Also you need to have at least two perches but three would be better. The snake needs to be able to regulate itself by moving up and down the enclosure by moving to the different perches.

    The analog gauge you have is actually pretty accurate but it is no replacement for have a IR temp gun. Keeping arboreal snakes they are incredibly valuable. You need to be able to know the temp of each perch so you know has the proper hotspot. A regular thermometer or even a digital one with a probe will not keep your keeping like a temp gun will.

    The paper on the sides is a nice addition and should help the snake feel more secure.

    If you are able I suggest you check out PVC Cages. That is what my GTP has been in since 2012 and what I just ordered my new ETB. I got mine the 3x2x2 with perches, led light, and rhp. I also got three greenery bundles as my first cage could use some pieces replaced. My total with all of that including shipping was $416. He sent me an email and said Im about 3 weeks out for delivery.

    http://pvccages.com/

    They make great cages for arboreal snakes and make keeping the temps and humidity a snap. You will also need a nice tstat for the rhp. For that I suggest Herpstat from Spyder Robotics. All four of my tstats are from them and none have ever given me an issue.

    http://spyderrobotics.com/



    Also I can not help you if you do not help me. By failing to answer the few questions I ask you make it harder for me to help you as I have to work with little information.

    So again. How are you preparing your meals for your snake?
    Last edited by KMG; 11-19-2016 at 07:02 PM.
    KMG
    0.1 BP 1.1 Blood Python 1.0 Brazilian Rainbow Boa 1.0 Aru Green Tree Python
    0.1 Emerald Tree Boa 0.1 Dumeril Boa 0.1 Carpet Python 0.1 Central American Boa
    0.1 Brooks Kingsnake 0.1 Speckled Kingsnake 1.0 Western Hognose
    0.1 Blonde Madagascar Hognose 1.0 Columbian Boa

    1.1 Olde English Bulldogge 1.0 Pit Bull

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