First time BP owner.

[Sensei345]

I recently bought a BP off a friend of mine who was moving and unable to continue caring for him. I've done a fair amount of research on the care of BP's but still have a few questions left unanswered.

[IMG][/IMG]


[IMG][/IMG]

Firstly, here's a photo of the setup that i currently have. The lamp is a red heat bulb, as i've seen recommended, but am wondering if i should be using it just at night or during the day as well or should i just be using it as a means to control the ambient temperature on the warm side of the vivarium?
[IMG][/IMG]


I was also given a bunch of liners that im not sure are safe to use after some of what i've read on the internet and would just like a second or even third opinion.
[IMG][/IMG]

He's about to shed too and to keep with the normal feeding routine i would need to feed him on tuesday, He was also just transported on sunday. So i'm wondering if i should try to keep with the regular weekly feeding routine or wait a few days longer to let him de-stress, and if so how many days should i wait?

Last question i had is how could i accurately measure the humidity in the tank over the next few days until i am able to get a digital meter? The one that came with the tank was damaged in transportaion unfortunately.

[NightWolf]

A normal day light would be better, at least thats what I think.(I also haven't owned a bp for that long) But i do have one heat lamp and i leave the lights on the day time, and turn them off at night.
He should be fine eating. My first one(rescued) ate the first day i got her, although she was starving. If he doesn't eat the first time, probably wait a day or two to try again. If he eats live only DO NOT leave them unattended for even a second.

[Penultimate]

Is the lamp the only heat source? What temperature readings are you getting? Are my eyes just terrible, or is there some kind scar on his side?

[JoshSloane]

Basking bulbs are not great for snakes. Keep those for lizards, BPs generally don't appreciate intense bright lights. The red bulb is fine, I have used them in the past. What are your temps? How are you checking them? You don't need to night drop temps, its fine to keep them consistent day and night.

Log hides aren't the greatest, but they will do. Consider changing to something non-porous in the future. What is your humidity like?

You would also do better to put those plastic plants on the floor of the cage for the bp to hide under, he isn't going to climb up there frequently.

If you want to keep this snake in the best way possible I would do the following.

1. Buy either a digital probe thermometer or a temp gun. Temp guns are a better choice.
2. Check your hot spot temps-88-91 is usually standard
3. Get a lamp dimmer to modulate your IR bulb temps. (Unless your room stays completely temperature constant, you need a way to alter temps)
4. Limit ventilation on the top of the cage (There is a how to diy cage foil treatment write up in this forum)
5. Check your humidity

[Sensei345]

Thank you for the tips. I did get a couple digital thermometer/hygrometer. All the previous owner had was a dial meter. I ended up having to hang them on either side (inside) his habitat though. Just got some little S hooks and hung them between the screen top and the either side of the case. Moving the plants around seemed to help with the humidity too, as it was a bit lower than it should have been. It's very dry where I live.


The log wasn't by choice, it was just one of the hides that came with the case and snake.

Is the lamp the only heat source? What temperature readings are you getting? Are my eyes just terrible, or is there some kind scar on his side

Yes, I've ordered a UTH but have yet to recieve it.
Cool temp was at 85.7F with 58% humidity, Basking was 88.7 with 63% humidity. I've been trying to raise the humidity a little more since he is going through a shed.
Yes, he has some scarring from the previous owners cats. Apparently one of them learned how to open the front doors and got in one day and attacked the snake. A few other sources have told me that the scarring will fade over time.

[Sensei345]

Tried to feed him today to keep up his weekly feeding regimen, but he didn't even seem to want to strike at the mouse. There was some interest and scenting of the mouse but nothing more for 45 minutes. He is going through a shed right now though so i'll try again in a couple days.

He's been fed F/T by the previous owner and they had some mice left when i bought the snake. Is there any way i can keep a mouse thats already been thawed for awhile without it going bad, or should i just re-freeze the mouse?

[maausen]

Some snakes will not eat in shed. Mine will not touch food. I would wait until he has shed, or at least until his eye caps are removed(by himself of course). Also I don't know what technique your using to feed but maybe he likes privacy and you can heat and scent the f/t rodent and place in the cage overnight. Also a sheet over the cage at night( with enough air flow) can help a shy snake adapt and eat again..

If it is live food, try again in a week after he sheds. ALWAYS supervise live feeders..

[Sensei345]

I did check with the previous owner and she said he's always eaten during a shed, so i'll just wait a couple days and try again.

If it is live food, try again in a week after he sheds. ALWAYS supervise live feeders..

Yes, i would honestly prefer to be able to feed him live, however because of where I live that is not an option. There is no pet supply store where I live and the nearest one is 4 hours of driving to get to, one way. I end up having to order in bulk bags of F/T. 50-100 at a time.

[midnightLeo]

My python will not eat in shed at all but boa doesn't give a crap he could be deep in blind as a bat and still eat. Guess it just depends.