Best dog breed for the 'outdoors'? (For new dog owner too)

[Monty's_Mom]

The crate training for 2-3 months is a good time frame to start with. Use the crate when you can't be home but make sure the pup is taken outside every couple hours. The time can be slowly increased that they stay in the crate. I don't think any pup/dog should be kept in the crate for a whole work day. Get a friend or family to stop by every day to take them out or hire a service who can do this.

As for when they can be allowed the run of the place, it all depends on the dogs. Some are never a problem. Others die of old age.

Since you have the breed narrowed down, start with breed specific organizations/associations. AKC is helpful but not always the best. http://www.gundogbreeders.com/ is a good resource for a gun dog breed. Puppyfinder is not a good place to shop. Hip and CERF is a must IMO.

Dew claws are debatable as well. Tight fitting dew claws are very very rarely ever a problem. I wouldn't worry about dew claws.

[Monty's_Mom]

http://www.thelabradorclub.com/

Look here for breeders to start.

[Pampho85]

http://www.thelabradorclub.com/

Look here for breeders to start.

I have already haha. Made a list and everything.

[Pampho85]

The crate training for 2-3 months is a good time frame to start with. Use the crate when you can't be home but make sure the pup is taken outside every couple hours. The time can be slowly increased that they stay in the crate. I don't think any pup/dog should be kept in the crate for a whole work day. Get a friend or family to stop by every day to take them out or hire a service who can do this.

As for when they can be allowed the run of the place, it all depends on the dogs. Some are never a problem. Others die of old age.

Since you have the breed narrowed down, start with breed specific organizations/associations. AKC is helpful but not always the best. http://www.gundogbreeders.com/ is a good resource for a gun dog breed. Puppyfinder is not a good place to shop. Hip and CERF is a must IMO.

Dew claws are debatable as well. Tight fitting dew claws are very very rarely ever a problem. I wouldn't worry about dew claws.

Thanks for the reply!

I watched a video, this and another I can't remember the title, and it was saying to keep the dog in the crate whenever you were at home for the first couple days and take them out accordingly. It also said to make sure you're always holding the pup or have it in your lap to make sure it has no 'freedom' for the couple weeks that it is being trained. I'll be most likely getting it at the start of the summer in a few years so I'll be able to train it then. And hopefully by the time I'm in grad school (2-3 months after training) it'll be properly potty trained.

Is it okay to get a 'gun breed dog' even though I won't be using it as such? I'll just be going on long hikes and walks with it?

And I'm hoping I can get the color I want as I've been eyeing two diff. colors haha

And thanks so much!

[Monty's_Mom]

Some of the breeders on that gundogbreeder site may not want to sell a puppy to someone who doesn't plan to hunt. A few of those may be snarky about it to be honest. Lots of phone calls, be honest about you want and feel comfortable with the breeder. A good idea is to ask breeders if they may have a "washout" available, a pup or young dog who doesn't have the "hunt" or perhaps a pup that is a breeding prospect but a physical or temperament issue prevents the breeder from using it for breeding. It is likely still going to able a great companion for you if you are talking with a reputable breeder.

Make 10-20 or 50 calls to different breeders, you have time. A breeder that you like talking to may not have a pup for you but they may have a suggestion for a different breeder.

There are a LOT of lab breeders in your area. You can shop local with ease and never buy from a breeder who won't let you see their kennel and the dam. It is great to see the sire but they may have shipped the dam for breeding or used frozen sperm so if they have a good reason to not see the sire, that isn't a deal breaker.

DO NOT be hooked in by "specialty" breeders of designer colors. Paying a premium for a so-called silver or red lab is going to be money better spent in healthcare, getting into a house, building an outdoor kennel etc. Some breeders charge more for Chocolate labs, don't bother and look for a different breeder. You have time and a large breed gene pool to shop from.

[Pampho85]

Some of the breeders on that gundogbreeder site may not want to sell a puppy to someone who doesn't plan to hunt. A few of those may be snarky about it to be honest. Lots of phone calls, be honest about you want and feel comfortable with the breeder. A good idea is to ask breeders if they may have a "washout" available, a pup or young dog who doesn't have the "hunt" or perhaps a pup that is a breeding prospect but a physical or temperament issue prevents the breeder from using it for breeding. It is likely still going to able a great companion for you if you are talking with a reputable breeder.

Make 10-20 or 50 calls to different breeders, you have time. A breeder that you like talking to may not have a pup for you but they may have a suggestion for a different breeder.

There are a LOT of lab breeders in your area. You can shop local with ease and never buy from a breeder who won't let you see their kennel and the dam. It is great to see the sire but they may have shipped the dam for breeding or used frozen sperm so if they have a good reason to not see the sire, that isn't a deal breaker.

DO NOT be hooked in by "specialty" breeders of designer colors. Paying a premium for a so-called silver or red lab is going to be money better spent in healthcare, getting into a house, building an outdoor kennel etc. Some breeders charge more for Chocolate labs, don't bother and look for a different breeder. You have time and a large breed gene pool to shop from.

Gotcha, and I'll make sure to do a lot of calling. Since I don't have an onschool job yet, which I plan on having either this year or starting next year, I don't want to contact them right now as I don't want to commit to anything until I have made the money already. How soon would you say to put a deposit down for a puppy?

Will do! Do I also have to ask for all the certifications in print (for the parents) and papers for all the shots or do they normally include those?

I was mainly hooked to the fox red and Chocolate, but you're right, they usually charge a bit more for the fox red and I can't really justify that. However I've come across breeders who charge $900 and others who charge $1500, and I'm leaning towards the cheaper ones (not to sound bad but because they include more certifications and sometimes a better guarantee). However, there are a number that don't list the price online so I have my work cut out for me haha.

[Monty's_Mom]

I think, according to that good video you linked, the holding in your lap etc is only for the first 3-4 days. After that, you can closely supervise indoor puppy time. Mistakes will happen. Catching them in the act simply involves some gentle repeated "No, no no, outside." Carry them outside even when you know the pee or poo is going to land on you. Once they are outside, use the "pee" command. I used, "Do your thing" lol.

I have also had to clean up mistakes of course. Instead of throwing the mess into the garbage, I picked up the puppy, again with the gentle no no (GENTLE) and took the mess to where they are supposed to go. Cleaning up the mess so the scent isn't there is essential but not hard. A spray bottle with half and half water and white vinegar with a teaspoon of dish soap works well. Enzymatic cleaners specifically to clean up pee and poo can work well but they are a little pricey. A small carpet cleaner is helpful. Get a rental with darker colored carpet if it has carpeting!!!

The most often used rule of thumb for crate training is age of pup in months is how many hours they can stay in the crate before taking them outside. A 2 month old pup can be in crate for 2 hours. A 4 month old pup is 4 hours etc.

[Pampho85]

I think, according to that good video you linked, the holding in your lap etc is only for the first 3-4 days. After that, you can closely supervise indoor puppy time. Mistakes will happen. Catching them in the act simply involves some gentle repeated "No, no no, outside." Carry them outside even when you know the pee or poo is going to land on you. Once they are outside, use the "pee" command. I used, "Do your thing" lol.

I have also had to clean up mistakes of course. Instead of throwing the mess into the garbage, I picked up the puppy, again with the gentle no no (GENTLE) and took the mess to where they are supposed to go. Cleaning up the mess so the scent isn't there is essential but not hard. A spray bottle with half and half water and white vinegar with a teaspoon of dish soap works well. Enzymatic cleaners specifically to clean up pee and poo can work well but they are a little pricey. A small carpet cleaner is helpful. Get a rental with darker colored carpet if it has carpeting!!!

The most often used rule of thumb for crate training is age of pup in months is how many hours they can stay in the crate before taking them outside. A 2 month old pup can be in crate for 2 hours. A 4 month old pup is 4 hours etc.

Oh okay gotcha. That seems a lot more plausible haha. I think I'll use your command too if you don't mind haha, sounds better than 'pee' lol. How long does it usually take to potty train them?
Would you recommend keeping them in the same room your are in while they're being potty trained too? And is there an obvious 'cue' when the dog needs to use the restroom?


Okay gotcha!

Thanks for all the help so far!

[Monty's_Mom]

Keeping the crate in your room at night is partly up to you. It also depends on if you are in an apartment and how well the soundproofing is. Noise complaints because the puppy was whining and barking and you didn't hear it is not good.

Most labs will be 80-90% there in a week or 2 with a lot of time on your part. Its a good idea to not be working for a week after your puppy comes home. It isn't cruel if you can't but it does shorten the potty training time and reduces the chance of a puppy that starts to hate the crate or chooses to pee and poo in the crate even if they lie down in it.

As for when you think a young puppy has to go, if you thought of it, take it outside lol. When they wake up from a nap, after they ate or drank, after play time. A good visual is watching a puppy start to sniff the floor, walk in a bit of a circle a bit while sniffing and the back legs may be kept under the body more than usual while it is walking. While they are in the crate, quiet short whining is okay, a lot of tail wagging, going from standing to sitting repeatedly and pacing are all indicators. Taking a puppy out of a crate right after it has done a #1 and #2 when it is whining, barking and crying is not a good idea at all. Wait for when it is quiet, even if its just 5 seconds of quiet. You don't want the puppy to cry just because it is in the crate. Safe chew toys in the crate is important and be watchful for a puppy that chews bedding. They can easily eat it and die from intestinal blockage.

[Pampho85]

Keeping the crate in your room at night is partly up to you. It also depends on if you are in an apartment and how well the soundproofing is. Noise complaints because the puppy was whining and barking and you didn't hear it is not good.

Most labs will be 80-90% there in a week or 2 with a lot of time on your part. Its a good idea to not be working for a week after your puppy comes home. It isn't cruel if you can't but it does shorten the potty training time and reduces the chance of a puppy that starts to hate the crate or chooses to pee and poo in the crate even if they lie down in it.

As for when you think a young puppy has to go, if you thought of it, take it outside lol. When they wake up from a nap, after they ate or drank, after play time. A good visual is watching a puppy start to sniff the floor, walk in a bit of a circle a bit while sniffing and the back legs may be kept under the body more than usual while it is walking. While they are in the crate, quiet short whining is okay, a lot of tail wagging, going from standing to sitting repeatedly and pacing are all indicators. Taking a puppy out of a crate right after it has done a #1 and #2 when it is whining, barking and crying is not a good idea at all. Wait for when it is quiet, even if its just 5 seconds of quiet. You don't want the puppy to cry just because it is in the crate. Safe chew toys in the crate is important and be watchful for a puppy that chews bedding. They can easily eat it and die from intestinal blockage.

Luckily, for the first 2 1/2 - 3 months the puppy is with me it'll be at my house with myself and my parents (and I plan on being home the entire summer for it as well). So I'm hoping it'll be fine by the time I get to the apartment when it comes to potty training haha. That and from what I read breeders sell the puppies at 7-8 weeks of age so it'll be around 4-5 months when it gets to my apartment. What age would you recommend it start being trained for obedience?

Is there a special kind of bedding that is good for dogs or would they basically be able to chew everything?