What questions should be asked and what should I look for?

[AlbinoBull]

I'm planning to possibly buy a ball from Repticon when it comes around again, but I don't want to make some huge mistake and regret it later. What sort of questions should I ask before buying a snake (how old, how much it eats, how often, etc.) and what should I look for/look out for? I've been looking on the internet on how to choose a healthy snake, but I'd prefer to hear from you all. What do you all recommend?

On a side note, I'm looking at pieds in particular. Is there anything special I should be wary of/be sure to look for? Thank you!

[Jhill001]

What is the animal for? Breeding project? Just a cool pet? This affects the questions I would ask.

[AlbinoBull]

I hope to someday breed it, yes.

[Jhill001]

The obvious: age, sex, what's it eating. Check the animal for signs of mites, other diseases, look at the other animals at the same stand, how do they look?

For breeding: Do you have lineage records (probably won't but it's cool to have them if they do have them), het for anything else, do you have any het for pied of the opposite sex so you can make baby pieds. That's just where I'd start.

Any sort of dealer at a reptile show I deal with I always ask about care information (that I already know) just to see if they are upfront about what they are selling. Now just because someone does something a bit different than the by the book care sheet version doesn't mean they don't know what they are doing so you are looking for things like oh Retics will only grow as big as the tank they are kept and BS stuff like that which is obviously dishonest.

[The Iron Python]

If you've been reading you know to look at the eyes, look at and around the mouth and nostrils. Handle the animal and listen that it is breathing well. (No clicking or wheezing). If the animal doesn't check out this stuff run from the vendor and don't let them convince you it's ok. (And Purell your hands as you run)


Pick what kind of vendors you will talk with;
- Proffessional looking banner(s)
- Decent display(s) with all animals on heat. (Unless you are someplace hot)
- Look them up (displayed name) on your smart phone? (Anything bad...move on)
- Did they show up with bussiness cards to display? I would stay away from those tables with 4 friends that have 6 animals each and group together to split the cost.

These kinds of things tell me they take pride in what they are doing. When all the animals are on heat I can assume the vendor likely takes good care of the animals in his collection, quarantines properly,etc.

Have listened to too many stories about people getting a screaming deal from someone who is "perpetually thinning out the collection" only to find they bought an animal with mites or R.I. Be picky in picking your vendor.

Next, go in with a budget in mind and a goal animal. Do you want a medium white visual male pied (a nice one here is 450-500), do you a want pastel lepoard pied male (almost double the cost) or are you going to hold out for a female medium white with a happy face on her back and "chocolate chip" spots on her tail? (Have been offered 2200 for mine). Make a plan. It will probably go out the window but at least the plan will help you steer a little.

Breeders ask more $ for girls, ask them to pop the animal to prove gender.

Ask about the animals feeding prefferance and how aggressively it feeds. Has it been assist fed as a hatchling, if yes how many times? If you want to feed F/T, ask if it normally takes F/T without hesitation.

If it's a hatchling how many meals has it had. (Should be 5 min).

If it's claimed to have multiple genes cooked in, ask about the gaurentee on genetics, always ask about health gaurentee.

I've sold plain pied males that we could have easily sold as pastel pied. (We supply a full color cert for combo morphs.)

Often at expos, certs are not provided. If you are buying something with multiple genes. (Eg. Pastel Enchi Pied) Ask for a gaurentee written on the sales receipt. IE, Animal being sold is a XYZ-pied and they will give you money back if that is found to be incorrect.

In the end, you'll know right away. You will see a snake and you'll know that is the one.

Hmmm....what else? Think about the most you can spend and take that in cash and leave your cards at home. The ATM at expos are evil.

I know I'm probably forgetting lots, but it's 1:30am here and it's been many, many hours since my last coffee.

Hope that helps a little.
Chris

[bcr229]

Ask how long the seller has owned the animal and if there are feeding records available. A lot of what's going to be on the tables on Saturday was picked up from a wholesaler on Friday.

[AlbinoBull]

Ask how long the seller has owned the animal and if there are feeding records available. A lot of what's going to be on the tables on Saturday was picked up from a wholesaler on Friday.

Should I avoid people without feed records?

If you've been reading you know to look at the eyes, look at and around the mouth and nostrils. Handle the animal and listen that it is breathing well. (No clicking or wheezing). If the animal doesn't check out this stuff run from the vendor and don't let them convince you it's ok. (And Purell your hands as you run)


Pick what kind of vendors you will talk with;
- Proffessional looking banner(s)
- Decent display(s) with all animals on heat. (Unless you are someplace hot)
- Look them up (displayed name) on your smart phone? (Anything bad...move on)
- Did they show up with bussiness cards to display? I would stay away from those tables with 4 friends that have 6 animals each and group together to split the cost.

These kinds of things tell me they take pride in what they are doing. When all the animals are on heat I can assume the vendor likely takes good care of the animals in his collection, quarantines properly,etc.

Have listened to too many stories about people getting a screaming deal from someone who is "perpetually thinning out the collection" only to find they bought an animal with mites or R.I. Be picky in picking your vendor.

Next, go in with a budget in mind and a goal animal. Do you want a medium white visual male pied (a nice one here is 450-500), do you a want pastel lepoard pied male (almost double the cost) or are you going to hold out for a female medium white with a happy face on her back and "chocolate chip" spots on her tail? (Have been offered 2200 for mine). Make a plan. It will probably go out the window but at least the plan will help you steer a little.

Breeders ask more $ for girls, ask them to pop the animal to prove gender.

Ask about the animals feeding prefferance and how aggressively it feeds. Has it been assist fed as a hatchling, if yes how many times? If you want to feed F/T, ask if it normally takes F/T without hesitation.

If it's a hatchling how many meals has it had. (Should be 5 min).

If it's claimed to have multiple genes cooked in, ask about the gaurentee on genetics, always ask about health gaurentee.

I've sold plain pied males that we could have easily sold as pastel pied. (We supply a full color cert for combo morphs.)

Often at expos, certs are not provided. If you are buying something with multiple genes. (Eg. Pastel Enchi Pied) Ask for a gaurentee written on the sales receipt. IE, Animal being sold is a XYZ-pied and they will give you money back if that is found to be incorrect.

In the end, you'll know right away. You will see a snake and you'll know that is the one.

Hmmm....what else? Think about the most you can spend and take that in cash and leave your cards at home. The ATM at expos are evil.

I know I'm probably forgetting lots, but it's 1:30am here and it's been many, many hours since my last coffee.

Hope that helps a little.
Chris

How do I guarantee genes? Are there blood things run or will it depend on breeding them down the line? I mean I'd still love my scaly noodle, but getting ripped on the price would be not so great. What sort of proof should a breeder be able to give that the snake is what it says on the sign? Also, if the breeder doesn't want to pop the animal, should I avoid said breeder?

Also, for health guarantees, what is usually offered for those? Sorry for all the questions, but I'm hoping to get this all right for the eventual snake! Thanks so much for your help. I research as best I can, but I think it's best to hear it from people who know what they are doing.

[The Iron Python]

Should I avoid people without feed records?

How do I guarantee genes? Are there blood things run or will it depend on breeding them down the line? I mean I'd still love my scaly noodle, but getting ripped on the price would be not so great. What sort of proof should a breeder be able to give that the snake is what it says on the sign? Also, if the breeder doesn't want to pop the animal, should I avoid said breeder?

Also, for health guarantees, what is usually offered for those? Sorry for all the questions, but I'm hoping to get this all right for the eventual snake! Thanks so much for your help. I research as best I can, but I think it's best to hear it from people who know what they are doing.

Health Gaurentee:
I would be ok with a week or two. Gives you time to examine the animal closely for signs of things like R.I and mites.

Genetic Gaurentee:
That's more for things you are paying extra for. If you get a straight up visual pied female, no cert needed. She's pied and you can see that. Now if someone sells you a female pyro pied (fire) that not super bright or say a low expression leopard pied, I would expect that the breeder would Gaurentee those genetics in writing. A good breeder has no problem putting in writing the equivalent of "these are the genes in the animal I just sold you....and I Gaurentee that". Again, often at expos breeders might not have certs for the animals brought. You should get a sales receipt for sure, I woukd make sure he writes down exactly what you are buying. Also ask if he can send you a PDF cert via email incase you sell it before you breed / prove it.

Gender ..... Just pop it:
Popping is reeeeeally easy. If they tell you they can't, ask them how they verify gender. The other typical way is probing. He should be able to show you something. Now if your paying for a girl (more expensive) and they do a bad job at popping the snake (don't press and roll at all) or flat out refuse to show anything and sell you a male then you paid a little extra for nothing. If your paint for a male, and you get a girl then that's a bonus in my books. (Unless you really needed the male for breeding)

Chris

[bcr229]

Should I avoid people without feed records?

Not necessarily. I don't haul my log to expos - it covers more than feeding, it has locks, ovy/lay if female, weights, any vet care if the critter had to go, etc. so it's pretty big.

[Mr. Misha]

Health Gaurentee:
I would be ok with a week or two. Gives you time to examine the animal closely for signs of things like R.I and mites.

Not one breeder whether at the expo or online will give a week or two guarantee. You will get two or three days at best. The reason for that is the breeder doesn't know how capable you are as an owner.

Definitely check for mites while you hold the snake. Check for bubbles in the mouth. I also stand back and observe the snake im thinking about buying to see if he/she is opening his/her mouth a lot.

The most important thing is to quarantine the animals you just bought from your current collection.