New owner and site member, BP Dehydrated from store.

[Karokash]

Yes he had two normals in the same enclosure with him, probably a 12"x 20" glass box....

this will be the third feeding attempt but the first one in his own enclosure. Again I have no idea if or when he ate at the store, or what they fed him or how he took it. So it severly limits my knowledge. As far as I know he could be one two or three months now without food. Spoons also mentioned the paper thing, I will definitely try that if he doesn't take it after a couple minutes of dangling.

[Reed12321]

Yes he had two normals in the same enclosure with him, probably a 12"x 20" glass box....

this will be the third feeding attempt but the first one in his own enclosure. Again I have no idea if or when he ate at the store, or what they fed him or how he took it. So it severly limits my knowledge. As far as I know he could be one two or three months now without food. Spoons also mentioned the paper thing, I will definitely try that if he doesn't take it after a couple minutes of dangling.

Don't be afraid to push the mouse near his nose so he's forced to smell it. Sometimes if your snake is coiled up, you can put the mouse right in the middle of the coil.

[Karokash]

I watched the video spoons loaded, I'm basically going to do the same thing; dangle it right in front of his nose by his hide opening for a few minutes and hope he strikes. I was thinking of, after thawing it, putting it on a paper towel on top of the cage to finish the warming/thaw and let the scent sort of drift down to get him hungry first. I've heard it suggested multiple times, and it makes sense to me.

I'm trying to avoid having to split the head. It would make such a mess once he constricted and I don't want him to develop the habit of only eating them like that.

[Reed12321]

I watched the video spoons loaded, I'm basically going to do the same thing; dangle it right in front of his nose by his hide opening for a few minutes and hope he strikes. I was thinking of, after thawing it, putting it on a paper towel on top of the cage to finish the warming/thaw and let the scent sort of drift down to get him hungry first. I've heard it suggested multiple times, and it makes sense to me.

I'm trying to avoid having to split the head. It would make such a mess once he constricted and I don't want him to develop the habit of only eating them like that.

I didn't mean split the head open, just with the tongs grab it by the scruff of it's neck and only hold it by the skin. It's like when you pick up furry animals by the scruff of their neck (I do it to my cat all the time).

[Karokash]

Right, I only mention it as i've heard it's a sort of last resort to get them to strike. I'm hoping it won't be necessary. I forgot to mention your setups look nice. I would love to see a pic of that baby albino.

[Reed12321]

Right, I only mention it as i've heard it's a sort of last resort to get them to strike. I'm hoping it won't be necessary. I forgot to mention your setups look nice. I would love to see a pic of that baby albino.

My setup is is "ghetto." I have cheap thermostats, but eventually I wanna get a herpstat and a rack so I can have more snakes.

[200xth]

Yes he had two normals in the same enclosure with him, probably a 12"x 20" glass box....

this will be the third feeding attempt but the first one in his own enclosure. Again I have no idea if or when he ate at the store, or what they fed him or how he took it. So it severly limits my knowledge. As far as I know he could be one two or three months now without food. Spoons also mentioned the paper thing, I will definitely try that if he doesn't take it after a couple minutes of dangling.

IMO, you have too much stuff going on at once. Humidity level issues, stress level issues, shed problems, how to feed, when to feed, where to feed, what to put down for him so he doesn't hurt himself feeding, whether he's ever actually eaten FT before, etc.

Simplify what you can. Make it as simple as possible.

Try feeding a live mouse. This alone will tell you a ton about his current condition.

If he eats, he's hungry and fairly well adjusted and you can start figuring out how to switch him to FT and work on the environment changes you need to make knowing your snake is in fairly good shape at the moment.

If he doesn't eat the live mouse, you still have work to do on either husbandry or reducing his stress levels.

[yellowbelly76]

Do you mind me asking about how much that ran for you? I keep searching thermostats and all I seem to find are either really expensive ones or ones for houses that don't have plugins for things like UTH's. I have that link saved for the mid range thermos but as I mentioned, the truck dropped my immediate budget so even the $50 one would have to wait. Unless you think the dimmer will suffice for a few weeks until I get back from the mechanic bill.

Sorry for the delayed response...I kind of forgot that I posted something here, and wasn't paying attention. The hydrofarm stat that I got from Amazon cost about $26. I would like to get one of the herpstat models, once I have a little extra cash. However, this looks like the replacement for the one that I purchased (although a couple of the photos actually looks like mine)...http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Aaron

[yellowbelly76]

Thank you for the encouragement. I know the two big things now are changing the bedding and getting that thermostat. I just went back in and the readings looked a little better: 88 on the hot side, 81 on the cool and the humidity got to 37%.

So weird that the humidity is the thing i'm battling with most, I didn't think it was possible to have a humidity of less than like 80% anywhere in Louisiana. I swear just walking around feels like you just got out of the shower.

I also had major struggles with humidity, especially after moving my BP into a 40 gallon breeder tank. Humidity will always be a problem with glass tanks because the top is open the way it is. I covered the majority of my lid with foil and foil tape, and even have a large water bowl in there...however, it was still an issue. So, I purchased one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Crane-Ultrason...nic+humidifier

I put it on a timer so that it only turns on for a few minutes every hour, and my BP hasn't had a bad shed in quite some time. The humidity still fluctuates a little, but is more constant that it was before. Once I have the case, along with the herpstat, I want to get a proper habitat...probable a T8 from animal plastics.

Aaron

[Reed12321]

I also had major struggles with humidity, especially after moving my BP into a 40 gallon breeder tank. Humidity will always be a problem with glass tanks because the top is open the way it is. I covered the majority of my lid with foil and foil tape, and even have a large water bowl in there...however, it was still an issue. So, I purchased one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Crane-Ultrason...nic+humidifier

I put it on a timer so that it only turns on for a few minutes every hour, and my BP hasn't had a bad shed in quite some time. The humidity still fluctuates a little, but is more constant that it was before. Once I have the case, along with the herpstat, I want to get a proper habitat...probable a T8 from animal plastics.

Aaron

Did you actually put that right into the tank?