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  1. #1
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    Very weak ball python

    I have 3 ball pythons, 2 female and 1 male, and the male has become extremely weak and lethargic. The 3 snakes share a large terrarium with heat ~80f. this is the same setup ive used for as long as ive had them. 2 days ago was feeding time. both females ate their rats without issue, but the male was unable to kill his. he kept a bite on the rats head and kept it coiled for 3 hours, but never killed it. eventually i killed it for him. he started to eat it, but was unable to swallow more than the head and spit it out. yesterday i got him much smaller prey. he ate a mouse pinkie, although it took 2 hours and he never killed it. he then ate a mouse hopper, but it again took hours. i moved up to the rat fuzzy, but despite holding on to it for hours, never killed it. he now seems uninterested in the rat.

    during the struggle with the original rat i believe the rats claws did some damage as there are now 2 spots half way down his body that have lost the green scales. the skin does not seem to be broken and he isnt reacting any differently to being touched near the spots.

    i usually feed once a month and it is not unusual for him to refuse food for months at a time. he has gone as long as 9 months, but without ever losing strength or energy. this time, i believe its been 4 months but he has lost significant mass and has almost no strength. if i pink him up he mostly dangles limp although he will lift his head and occasionally flick his tongue. I am not sure what to do at this point. he does have food in his system now although a pinkie and hopper mouse arent much for a 3.5 foot snake. there is only one vet nearby that could tell me anything but i cant get there for atleast a few days.

    he was a rescue so i do not know his age but the female that was rescued with him is perfectly healthy. i have had them for about 10 years and they were mostly grown when i got them.

    i bought more pinkie mice today in hopes he would be interested in more slow food, but he expressed little interest.

    any thoughts on what i should do would be greatly appreciated. i do have a few pictures but i cannot post attachments for some reason.

    edit:
    i just read about possible dehydration.

    (quoted)
    Dehydration can also cause appetite loss. If the neck skin had been abnormal, that is a sign of severe dehydration, which can only be treated by a vet. I am very concerned because you said your snake seems weak and limp. Buy an electrolyte solution. In the USA, that would be unflavored Pedialyte In the UK, it would be a product called Lectaid, which is sold in pet stores. In Australia, it’s a human product called Dioralyte. Prepare a shallow bath consisting of 1/2 water and 1/2 electrolyte solution. Soak your snake for about 20 to 30 minutes twice a day. Reptiles can absorb the electrolytes and fluids through their vents (where droppings pass out), so make the water deep enough to cover the vent. Be sure to supervise closely.
    (end quote)

    the skin under his neck looks like it is sunken into the neck ( in one of the pictures that i cent upload) so definitely not normal.

    does this change how i should go about treating him?
    Last edited by weak ball python; 09-09-2014 at 12:29 AM.

  2. #2
    BPnet Royalty KMG's Avatar
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    Load the pics to Photobucket and then add the IMG code into the text. When you press post it turns the IMG code into a pic in your post.

    Im not sure what this may be but Im thinking internal parasite. It may be very wise to separate him from the others until you figure this out.
    KMG
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  4. #4
    BPnet Lifer Eric Alan's Avatar
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    Holy smokes!
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  5. #5
    BPnet Royalty KMG's Avatar
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    I think you need a vet visit quick for that one.

    I would separate it and find somebody that can see you immediately. Usually a vet will squeeze you in if you make them understand its a dire situation.

    Is your tank just aspen bedding with a water bowl?

    I think you may have some things we can help you with to make that tank serve you better and help keep the heat and humidity where it should be.

    Run us through your setup giving us the equipment used and a pic would be awesome. Also give what temps and humidity levels you keep the tank at.
    KMG
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  6. #6
    Registered User Running Elk's Avatar
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    Once a month?

    Once a month doesn't seem like frequent enough feedings/offerings to me, especially since he doesn't take the food every time you offer it. :/ Most of mine are youngish, but I feed them once a week. Are you sure you're offering him enough food frequently enough?

    I hope he gets better, he definitely looks in a bad way.

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  8. #7
    in evinco persecutus dr del's Avatar
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    Re: Very weak ball python

    The poor wee guy.

    Have a read of our caresheet.
    Derek

    7 adult Royals (2.5), 1.0 COS Pastel, 1.0 Enchi, 1.1 Lesser platty Royal python, 1.1 Black pastel Royal python, 0.1 Blue eyed leucistic ( Super lesser), 0.1 Piebald Royal python, 1.0 Sinaloan milk snake 1.0 crested gecko and 1 bad case of ETS. no wife, no surprise.

  9. #8
    Sometimes It Hurts... PitOnTheProwl's Avatar
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    Re: Once a month?

    Quote Originally Posted by Running Elk View Post
    Once a month doesn't seem like frequent enough feedings/offerings to me, especially since he doesn't take the food every time you offer it. :/ Most of mine are youngish, but I feed them once a week. Are you sure you're offering him enough food frequently enough?
    Adult feedings are a lot different than a growing hatchling.
    Some of my males only eat a couple times a year.

    How long has it been since he had a meal before this and how much has his weight changed?

  10. #9
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    Re: Very weak ball python

    Ok, first you have mature three adults co-habitating. I suspect the male has worn himself out breeding the two females. Yes, the males will kill themselves breeding over feeding, and even if that isn't the problem, if he's sick then you don't want the others catching whatever he's got. All three should be separated ASAP.

    Second, your heat. Either they need ambient in the mid-80's all the time, or they need a gradient, 80*F cool and 90*F warm, so they can thermoregulate and digest their food properly.

    Third, if the male is too weak to kill prey then he'll have to go on pre-killed or frozen/thaw. You may end up assist-feeding him for a few meals - I would suggest f/t adult mice or f/t rat pups that have been dusted with NutriBAC probiotic to help him digest, until he's strong enough to take a meal on his own.

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  12. #10
    Sometimes It Hurts... PitOnTheProwl's Avatar
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    I didnt even catch the all in one tank problem......

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